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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
If Ti framelocks are the best, then why not do them on Izula folder?
- Thread starter agoutihead
- Start date
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- Dec 17, 2005
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- 7,809
I couldn't care less if it's steel or Ti.
Ti has an undeniable cool factor but I don't think it really offers any advantages over steel aside from weight.
Ti has an undeniable cool factor but I don't think it really offers any advantages over steel aside from weight.
most people over the age of 12 or so "grew up with" lock backs and slip joints.
liner locks, frame locks, axis locks and similar mechanisms are fairly modern designs... altho the Gerber Paul lock and Bolt lock from one of the Gerbers that let you change blades are older, they didn't seem to be very widespread. IIRC, CRK designed the Sebenza in the early '90s and that's one of the earliest, if not the first production framelock. (at least that i can recall)
lockbacks seem prone to collecting junk in the lock have a significant amount of drag so it's harder to flip or flick the knife open. not something you really need to do, but lots of buyers seem to like something they can flick open.
i've never been a big fan of the Buck 110 and it's clones, or lockbacks in general.
Riveted construction makes it impossible to remove 100% of the accumulated dirt in any folder. Unlike frame locks and liner locks, lock backs will not fail when twisted. Lock backs are also very wear-resistant. A three-sided tooth on the rocker bar nests in a three-sided recess on the blade; resulting in full engagement of the lock every time. This is not the case with frame locks and liner locks.
Personally, I don't apply torsion to my folding knives. I've never had a liner or frame lock on a knife that cost more than 10 dollars fail on me. I also like being able to open and close a knife quickly with one hand, which I haven't been able to do with a lockback.
Well thats interesting, I never knew that being on the liberal democrat fringe made you superior
but if you say soMe, I will stick with being righty both in my hands and in my political views
Seems just more natural to me:thumbup:
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2006
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- 970
You big sissy, I've been able to open and close my lock-backs one handed. So far that's only really a Ka-Bar Mule and a Spyderco Delica 4. Opening is, well opening. Not much different from any other knife. Getting them smooth take a little more breaking in than a liner lock in my experience. To close disengage the lock with your thumb, keep your index finger at the top of handle. Flick the blade downward. Once it partly closes move your fingers out of the way and close the blade completely with your thumb.
Also, completely randomly. Would it be possible to machine a frame lock out of carbon fiber with a metal plate (replaceable?) to engage and lock the blade?
God bless,
Adam
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- Aug 31, 2008
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Thanks for weighing in Jeff.
I admit .8 ounces doesn't sound like much, but when you are only talking about a 3 or 4 ounce ounce object it is definitely noticeable. What about corrosion resistance? Titanium is extremely corrosion resistant and oxidizes very slowly.
Because there is more surface area in contact (except when compared to the beefiest liner locks), the lock surface area will wear slower.
In addition when in use, your grip will help the lock stay closed, even under heavy use.
However, the STRENGTH of the framelock is the the crossection of the thinnest part of the locking bar, where it is partly milled away, and pre-folded inwards. This cross-section is often comparable to that of strong liner locks.
By beefie liner locks do you mean Emerson by any chance?
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- Feb 23, 2009
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Then you really need to try a Spyderco back-lock! Their knives are super easy to open and close one handed. Also, as mentioned before (I think by Shotgunner), the back-lock is 100% ambidextrous! A big advantage for somebody like me, who is rather ambidextrous (I'm a lefty but can do 99% of all tasks with my right hand also).
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2006
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Ti is stronger than steel for its weight. Not stronger than steel for its volume. So decent steel would wear better. I also know that an ounce can end up being alot.
Lol, most people could afford to lose an ounce off their fat whatever to make up for the steel. But personally I'm not packing around much more lard than I should be if any.
But, I guess I would go with Ti if I had the choice.
Lol, most people could afford to lose an ounce off their fat whatever to make up for the steel. But personally I'm not packing around much more lard than I should be if any.
But, I guess I would go with Ti if I had the choice.
- Joined
- Oct 8, 1998
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- 8,917
I have been carrying an Al Mar SERE 2000 for years now. Steel liner lock, it's just fine. If it's too heavy for someone to carry, well, that's a real personal issue I think.
I really appreciate the lockbacks getting their due in this thread, they are very strong and reliable, to say the least.
Mid-placement lockbacks like Spydercos...I use a Spyderco Endura at work every day and I have to sharpen it every two or three days because I use it, a lot. I have no fear of losing my fingers with it, especially with the Boye Detent. Part of that is because I know from the start it is not a screwdriver or a prybar. Half of the battle is knowing what you are using.
Liner locks are fine if they are done well. If they are done shitty in titanium, you still get a shitty lock.
I really appreciate the lockbacks getting their due in this thread, they are very strong and reliable, to say the least.
Mid-placement lockbacks like Spydercos...I use a Spyderco Endura at work every day and I have to sharpen it every two or three days because I use it, a lot. I have no fear of losing my fingers with it, especially with the Boye Detent. Part of that is because I know from the start it is not a screwdriver or a prybar. Half of the battle is knowing what you are using.
Liner locks are fine if they are done well. If they are done shitty in titanium, you still get a shitty lock.
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- Oct 17, 2009
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- 1,978
I've been really impressed with both the frame lock and liner lock on the Zero Tolerance Knives. I've had a couple friends had their locks fail on them in the past and one of them almost lost a few of his fingers. Since then I've been really leery of liner locks. But after getting the ZT 0350 with a liner lock and really putting it through it's paces it's never even gave any reason to worry in the least bit. But I would choose a frame lock over any other.
Hell at .8 oz it really doesn't matter at all weather it has a steel or titanium frame. The steel frame would keep the cost down for sure though. No matter what though they decide though, I know it'll be the right decision and a kick ass blade!
Hell at .8 oz it really doesn't matter at all weather it has a steel or titanium frame. The steel frame would keep the cost down for sure though. No matter what though they decide though, I know it'll be the right decision and a kick ass blade!