If you could build your own GEC...

My ultimate would be a 3-7/8" Saddlehorn frame with Copperhead bolster. Muskrat clip main and a true Wharncliffe secondary (think Case Seahorse Whittler) in Horsecut Burnt Orange bone or Primitive bone. O1 tool steel in the blades, and the springs blued for contrast.
 
I would like several, first a Scout/camper pattern, but exchanging the can opener for a secondary blade, spey or pen.
A 3 5/8" long serpentine, with a primary clip blade and a secondary pen, spey or wharncliffe. I would like the secondary blade on the mark side of the knife so both blades can be opened from the same side of the knife and I would like the the back corner of the blade that contacts the spring when opened to either be covered with the bolsters or smoothed off. And I'd like some of the scale options to be some of their really nice jigged bone.
I would also like this same setup, but in the smaller trapper pattern, the #73.

I would also like their primative bone scales as an option.

Q
 
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A 3 7/8 inch sleeve board whittler but with a Spey
And punch. Swedged main with smooth bone handles.
 
For those of you including can openers: is this a nod to history and/or pattern correctness, or do you regularly rely on the can opener in a knife?

(My other puzzlement was put to rest when I finally realized that most bottled beer still requires a cap lifter-- in which the consistent call for that tool's inclusion becomes apparent. ;))

~ P.
 
I'd like a #48 Jack with the slim clip blade of the single blade #48s and the pen blade in front of the clip on the mark side in both 1095 and 440c. I'd like #48 in 1095 and 440c with a wharncliffe secondary. I haven't held one of the Scagel wharncliffes so I'm not sure how much it sticks up so I'd be willing to have a shorter length blade so that it is more comfortable when using the clip blade.

Same as the above for the #66 Jack

I'd like a scout type knife. I don't really need a can opener so I'd be happy for a #53 frame knife with the muskrat clip, sheepsfoot blade, caplifter, and awl. Bail optional. In 440c.

I'd like a 440c #68. This would be great in the scout configuration I outlined above as well imo.

Perhaps a #33 or #68 in a muskrat configuration with clip/wharncliffe.
 
For those of you including can openers: is this a nod to history and/or pattern correctness, or do you regularly rely on the can opener in a knife?

(My other puzzlement was put to rest when I finally realized that most bottled beer still requires a cap lifter-- in which the consistent call for that tool's inclusion becomes apparent. ;))

~ P.

Hey P,

I can't speak for everybody else but the can openers on my Victorinox knives get enough use when camping and odd occassions that it is a tool I'd count as warranted on a good Scout pattern. I got used to using a Vic Camper as my only can opener throughout my twenties and until I started living with my lady a few years back. The caplifter? Well, that Sierra Nevada isn't going to just drink itself. :D
 
Another of my pet peeves with GEC is that in almost all of their 2-bladed knives they use the same belly for both.
If it has a clip or spear master, it has a pen secondary. And if it has a Wharncliffe or sheepfoot master, it has a coping secondary.

I always thought the main idea behind multiblades was increase versatility, not redundancy.
Why not a Wharncliffe main with pen secondary, or a clip main with coping or Wharncliffe secondary.
Only the Furtakers on the big #53 frame have had both. Let's see some 3.5 - 4" jacks with one belly and one straight edge.
 
Another of my pet peeves with GEC is that in almost all of their 2-bladed knives they use the same belly for both.
If it has a clip or spear master, it has a pen secondary. And if it has a Wharncliffe or sheepfoot master, it has a coping secondary.

I always thought the main idea behind multiblades was increase versatility, not redundancy.
Why not a Wharncliffe main with pen secondary, or a clip main with coping or Wharncliffe secondary.
Only the Furtakers on the big #53 frame have had both. Let's see some 3.5 - 4" jacks with one belly and one straight edge.

Hear, hear.
 
Another of my pet peeves with GEC is that in almost all of their 2-bladed knives they use the same belly for both.
If it has a clip or spear master, it has a pen secondary. And if it has a Wharncliffe or sheepfoot master, it has a coping secondary.

I always thought the main idea behind multiblades was increase versatility, not redundancy.
Why not a Wharncliffe main with pen secondary, or a clip main with coping or Wharncliffe secondary.
Only the Furtakers on the big #53 frame have had both. Let's see some 3.5 - 4" jacks with one belly and one straight edge.

Excellent point. I totally agree.
 
Norfolk, with a properly long Wharncliffe and Pen blade. Antique Black Bone, Burnt Orange Herring Bone, Stag, Root Beer or Tortoise acrylic. Bar or gimp shield, nickel silver liners.

Serp Pen-Knife/Sea Horse Whittler fram, two blades: Clip and small Sheepfoot 3.5" Similar handles as above. Nickel silver liners.

Swell-End single blade up to 3.75" Really thick handles, Coco, Ebony, Toffee coloured Peach Jig, or Green Bone, Antique Micarta Ivory, large Rat-Tail bolster and Barehead. Sheepfoot with swedge. All knives in 440c matte or 1095 crocus polish.

We must dream.
 
Another of my pet peeves with GEC is that in almost all of their 2-bladed knives they use the same belly for both.
If it has a clip or spear master, it has a pen secondary. And if it has a Wharncliffe or sheepfoot master, it has a coping secondary.

I always thought the main idea behind multiblades was increase versatility, not redundancy.
Why not a Wharncliffe main with pen secondary, or a clip main with coping or Wharncliffe secondary.
Only the Furtakers on the big #53 frame have had both. Let's see some 3.5 - 4" jacks with one belly and one straight edge.


One of my pet peves is redundancy on a blade (yet I still buy pen knives with 2 pen/drop blades)

What I would Love to see anybody make (but especially GEC) is:
4" closed
Master blade-
thin/sleek wharncliffe (~4" length-as close as possible)

Secondary blades-
2.5" Spey
2" Hawksbill/pruner
Punch.
1095 is okay, nice to see a more modern steel, although I'm personally slightly biased against 440C
Serpentine or cigar
Threaded and pinched bolsters, coined liners, swedged appropriately, pinned shield (design to match the handle matrial if any shield at all- no cloud/bar)
I would love a nice ironwood/snake wood/Koa or stag/mammoth- not too picky about handle as long as it isn't plastic/acrylic etc

As long as I'm dreaming right! This would be long enough for my food prep uses; convex/concave/straight edges (no redundancy), looks good, punch for non-knife duties. I don't think I would need another slipjoint if I could find this. Guess I need to get a move at making slipjoints so I can someday see this become a reality.
 
goodness so many ideas if GEC ever took them all up they'd spend years on that lot...
 
I agree with Jake about the "old catalog pattern pick" strategy.
As for Jeff's post, I've been preaching the same thing here...hopefully someone will hear us someday.
Oh, and I agree with Frank on light pulls. I recently sold my Elk #25 for that reason.
back to the candy shop....
......a #66 serpentine jack in 440C, light pull, and wharncliffe (smaller) secondary.
......a #61 congress jack with secondary pen blade, no half stops and 440C.
......a camp/scout knife

Fausto
:cool:
 
A small and purdy texas toothpick, with scales that aren't bone, but something a bit more flashy.
Like this
case.jpg
 
I really, really, really want them to make a copy of the folder in the Nessmuk drawing. It is my grail knife. Everything available is either too small or just slightly out of the proportions of that knife. The Moose is close but.........I've been driving my wife crazy looking for it.
 
I'd like to see a big Coke-bottle folding hunter single-blade, like the one Queen popped out with the vintage-style tang stamp recently.
 
Gimme a "Boy Scout" style knife built on the #53 frame.
Spear point main blade, can opener, cap lifter / flathead screwdriver, & small sheepsfoot blade.
Make it in 440C or O-1 without a bail, and give it micarta handle scales with an acorn shield.

It'll probably never happen, but I can dream.

-nate
 
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1. More knives in 440C.
2. Knives I can open with no fear of breaking my thumb nail.

Agree with 1, very much in agreement with 2. I would like to see a 23 single blade lockback in 440C. I would like to see a granddaddy barlow similar to the Queen Burke collaboration and Camillus 9 I believe. More single blade slipjoints too. I've really fallen in love with those.

Oh yeah, boy scout knife too. Jigged bone or delrin, long match pull. All 440C blades. Bail naturally.
 
Many great ideas above. I could add my own but I'm already so impressed with how many patterns and handle materials such a young company has offered up thus far. Keep on keepin' on GEC.
 
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