If you could have only one sharpening stone...

An important factor to consider is that if you were literally limited to a single sharpener, not only should the working life of that stone be taken into consideration, but one would likely find themselves using the stone as a determining factor regarding what edged tools they would select to use. That is to say, if one stone is all you get, you'll likely be placing a higher emphasis on tools that are easily maintained with the particular stone and find yourself dissuaded from tools for which that particular stone is ill-suited.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
All in all, I think coarse stones are severely under-valued and should really be considered as the foundation of all other sharpening work. A good coarse stone can remove material at high speed, but with good technique can also be used to produce surprisingly fine edges. Meanwhile, fine stones are good for routine maintenance, but if you're a serious user of edged tools, it's just about inevitable that you'll end up with an edge that's damaged beyond what a fine stone can easily iron out. An overabundance of fine stones is a sure path to impatience and rounded edges from trying to cheat and shortcut the sharpening process by increasing the edge angle.
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Exactly !

:) Where were you thirty years ago when I was struggling with this 1000 or 1200 King (to the right of the strops).
Nice stone but if the edge is too dull or damaged it sure is frustrating and before that fine hard Arkansas were even worse.
The Stropping Young Lads.jpg

Took me a long time to realize a 300 stone is great and I like a 120 even more.
New stones old files.JPG
 
annr said:
I can't get the refined edge I need with the coarse stone--so it's a tough question.
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Same here ! ! ! !

Is that a box turtle ? As a little kid I had one and took him out on the big lawn in summer. He loved to hunt dandelion flowers. He would slowly and stealthily work his way up to one, from behind so it wouldn't see him coming, and get away . . . then he would crane his neck way out and up and CHOMP ! ! ! That dandelion was a goner. Little yellow things sticking out from all around his puss . . . big smile on his . . . his beak I suppose you'd call it. And smiling isn't an easy thing for a turtle to do.
 
David Martin said:
I'd get a coarse SiC stone in about 150 grit. They are just sooo much more versatile,
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Ding, ding, ding, ding
I was wondering when some one was going to go there.
I have a couple and don't use them; I inherited them from room mates from back in the day, I think one I found in my Dad's stuff when he passed. He didn't use it, he used wet or dry paper on a steel surface plate.
Same diff though I suppose as wet or dry.

I'm NOT putting it down. From what I have read here in the forums it is a whole lot more versatile than about anything else. Even recommended by those in the know for S110V.

I wasn't going to say it 'cause I have zero experience with one . . . I keep thinking I am going to busss one of mine out and learn to use it one of these days. Maybe this will be the year.

Congrats . . . from my perspective you just won the big teddy bear.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
DMT Coarse (325). I specify diamond, simply because it offers that much more portability and ease of use, with literally any steel or other edged tool (ceramic blades
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er. . . . have you tried a ceramic blade on the Coarse diamond ? I found it to be a complete FAIL. Chips the edge but doesn't produce any kind of usable edge. Maybe I am too picky and looking for something that can at least sort of scrape hair but my experience was not satisfactory.
 
One only ... you sadistic bastard!!!:mad: ... I mean ummm ... well for starters I definately agree it would be a coarser stone ... a schythe stone would be a decent option especially if you were picking a small set of cutting tools ... say an axe a big knife and a small knife ...

if it weren't that I haven't tried some of hardest steels but anything up to M390 so far responds well to my coarse grit Shaptons ... I would probably go with the 320 if I went that route ... I may have to adjust my choice of my small set of cutting tools with a bit softer steels but I wouldn't go with diamonds just to be able to sharpen some super steel ... just a good coarse stone to fix small damage and get a good toothy edge ...

then can always strop on denim over a hardwood ... that would accomplish anything necessary ... anything above that's just for fun anyway
 
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David Martin said:
This and what 83 said above. For me it's an easy choice. I'd get a coarse SiC stone in about 150 grit. They are just sooo much more versatile,
and faster than finer stones. And I'd shy away from diamonds. For someone Just maintaining Their own knives, ok go finer. But the coarse stone is the work-horse of sharpening. Without it you are taking the long way around the mountain. With only it you can get a good quick edge off it.
Then later strop or refine it further on many surfaces. From your garden tools, Mother in laws knives to sharpening for neighbors get the coarse
stone first. DM
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Totally this. The coarse stone has been an absolute necessity every time i sharpen a knife for friends or family. In these cases, the coarser the better. In these situations, i find that my silicone carbide stone with high pressure moving back and forth gets the quickest results. I would never press so hard on my dmt stones. Those SiC can be very fast cutters. For my personal use, i have only used coarse stones on rare occasion to change my edge angle.
 
Easy, Naniwa Diamond Waterstone 800 grit.

I'll use a belt sander for the coarse stuff and a strop for finer stuff

DONE! hahaha
 
I would go with a Norton Crystolon stone.
It will cut anything and the fine side can give a very fine edge if you let it glaze a bit.

It was what I started with so I’m fairly comfortable with it too.
 
Wowbagger said:
er. . . . have you tried a ceramic blade on the Coarse diamond ? I found it to be a complete FAIL. Chips the edge but doesn't produce any kind of usable edge. Maybe I am too picky and looking for something that can at least sort of scrape hair but my experience was not satisfactory.
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I was speaking of diamond in general, as being able to cut any material, IF it were actually needed for it. As I mentioned in my post, a Fine diamond would've been my first choice as an overall, one-hone solution. In the same vein of having only one option (hypothetically), a ceramic blade wouldn't come anywhere close to making the cut (so to speak) as my one choice of blade to use. They're not worth the trouble, due to their ridiculous, finicky fragility in matters such as this. Instead of worrying about chipping issues on my one-and-only-hone solution, I'd find a different blade to use. Even a simple, grocery store kitchen knife in low-alloy stainless would be more worthwhile, for the effort expended, if it were the only alternative.
 
The question needs to be expanded: one stone for oneself use for one’s choice of knife, or one stone for oneself doing also other peoples’ knives.

For the first case, DMT 1200 (Extra Fine). Then I just sell my S110V, keeping VG10, 8Cr, those simple steel.
Done :D

For the 2nd case, probably DMT C, or buy 42’s choice of stone.:oops::D

But why one stone where a set of DMT credit carda is thinner than my wallet? :eek:
 
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willc said:
I would go with a Norton Crystolon stone.
It will cut anything and the fine side can give a very fine edge if you let it glaze a bit.

It was what I started with so I’m fairly comfortable with it too.
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I like the norton crystolon and india stones. I like the idea of getting such a versatile stone for $20. To me it means that anyone on any budget can have sharp knives with a little bit of practice or with a little bit of luck.
 
microtech85 said:
I like the norton crystolon and india stones. I like the idea of getting such a versatile stone for $20. To me it means that anyone on any budget can have sharp knives with a little bit of practice or with a little bit of luck.
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Those are the 2 stones I would typically recommend when making an all-purpose “blind recommendation.”

Depending on if the stones are used wet/dry, slightly glazed, etc., they can cover a wide range of general purpose sharpening and maintainence. And as you point out, they don’t break the bank, so if the person wants to add a diamond unit or ceramic, or buy a NEW knife, it’s quite doable.

I usually suggest getting the largest model available, and this is still practical for most people.
 
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