If you were so inclined, what would you use to polish/remove scratches from bolster & remove patina?

D

DoctorAutomatic

Joined
Aug 12, 2017
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A month or so ago I purchased 2 #15 barlows. I forced a patina on one and left the other alone. While I think I did a great job on the patina, I've quickly learned these will patina just fine & fast enough the honest way & I rather like the way my other knife is just gradually getting a patina and somewhat regretting forcing one. In fact, part of me wants to go back to shiny & new on the one I forced.

So, what treatments/compounds/techniques would you recommend for getting scratches off the bolsters and polishing out the patina on both the blade & bolster? Flitz? If so, which flitz?
 
Flitz. Just standard flitz in the tube, I don't use the liquid. Also, I would use the cloth wheel on a Dremel on low speed or I would use a power drill attachment for detailing headlights to buff the bolsters back to new grade polish. Light touch is all you need. Or a buffer is fine.

To remove patina from a blade, a flitzy paper towel, cotton ball, or cotton swab is fine.
 
traumkommode said:
Flitz. Just standard flitz in the tube, I don't use the liquid. Also, I would use the cloth wheel on a Dremel on low speed or I would use a power drill attachment for detailing headlights to buff the bolsters back to new grade polish. Light touch is all you need. Or a buffer is fine.

To remove patina from a blade, a flitzy paper towel, cotton ball, or cotton swab is fine.
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How necessary is the Dremel tool? Are we talking a PITA to do this by hand or it just won't turn out the same by hand? I have a Dremel, but if it's easy enough to accomplish by hand I'd probably save myself a few $ and a trip to the hardware store.
 
DoctorAutomatic said:
How necessary is the Dremel tool? Are we talking a PITA to do this by hand or it just won't turn out the same by hand? I have a Dremel, but if it's easy enough to accomplish by hand I'd probably save myself a few $ and a trip to the hardware store.
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If you want to lighten the scratches and shine up the bolsters, by hand is fine
If you want the scratches gone and any significant pepper spotting, you need the buffing tool. Up to you, just depends on the effect you want.
 
Just sayin. My opinion only.
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traumkommode said:
If you want to lighten the scratches and shine up the bolsters, by hand is fine
If you want the scratches gone and any significant pepper spotting, you need the buffing tool. Up to you, just depends on the effect you want.
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Does anyone of this remove or lighten the black/darkness of the bolster stamp and the long pull nick? Not worried about the sheep's head logo, that thing is already plenty obscured, but I do like the long pull and bolster stamp dark.
 
DoctorAutomatic said:
Does anyone of this remove or lighten the black/darkness of the bolster stamp and the long pull nick? Not worried about the sheep's head logo, that thing is already plenty obscured, but I do like the long pull and bolster stamp dark.
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Not unless you fill them up and work a patch or something in there. The bolster stamps are more at risk with the Dremel cotton wheel, I would go to Lowe's and get one of the Gator headlight restoration kits and just use the polishing sponge lightly. If you really want to protect it, you can run a little clear nail polish over the bolster stamp.
 
The bolster stamp will lighten, if you’re not careful. I like to put a satin finish on my bolsters for user knives. I prefer the satin look over shiny.
 
I use the same stuff for polishing, Alan. Mothers works great for me. If the scratches are deep enough, I’ll start with a 600 grit paper and work my way up to 2000, then polish.
 
All great suggestions. Mothers, Flitz, and Simichrome are all great products. I would add that once you get it polished out to the degree you like, if you want to keep that polished look on carbon steel, use renaissance wax as a final step. This stuff is used on the Crown Jewels of England. It leaves an amazing finish and adds a micro crystalline coat of wax to protect long term.

And a desiccant pack in your knife display is a good idea too. Helps prevent those pepper spots from appearing.
 
I use any of the following: Simichrome, Wenol, Mother's Mag Polish. I have them all, and have used them all. Simichrome and Wenol appear to be identical. I have not tried Flitz.

I buff by hand only. For deeper scratches in bolsters/backsprings I have some fine/very fine grit wet-dry sandpaper - 600 and 1200 grit, which then get followed up with the Wenol/Simichrome, and a final buffing with a very light application of Renaissance Wax.

If you want the engraved lettering of your bolster darkened up, a sharpie will give it a nice look while remaining completely removable. Or else, if they are steel bolsters, put a little vinegar in the lettering and wipe it off the raised portion. That'll cause a patina. Or just buff the raised parts of the bolster with a polishing compond on a strop, leaving the recessed parts alone.
 
If you already have a leather strop wtih polishing compound it'll work just fine on nickel silver as well.
 
I agree, leather strop with green compound is really good for bolsters, works well on bone or horn too.
 
You can get .01 micron diamond paste as well. Works great as a stropping compound, what it’s for really.
Thanks, Neal
 
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