If you were to make the "ultimate" survival knife...

tknife

tknife

Joined
Mar 18, 1999
Messages
9,966
What would it be? There are a lot of top notch custom blades out there now that would fit the bill. I would like to take all the good qualities of the Anaconda, Battle Mistress, RTAK, and a couple others out there. What is important in a backwoods blade? (Please no "foldout chainsaw-motorcycle-jet fighter blades"!)
 
For survival knife in CONUS (and assuming that I don't have an axe) I would want a large 9-9 1/2" blade, drop point design and quite thick (1/4" thick stock)and wide (like 2 inches) but with nicely thinned out edge bevels, maybe even an asymeterical edge. Micarta handle with the scales fitted flush with the tang. I would want it to be fairly corrosision resistant, be extremely tough and have unmatched edge holding ability, yet be easy to sharpen. This knife would have the ability to slice, cut and chop, it would be the ultimate large woodland knife. I think I would call it the Battlemistress and have it produced by the excellent folks at www.bussecombat.com
For survival in Central America (I think that Belize will be my next home) I would want a 5 1/2" drop point made of talonite (The sea is a bounty, the source of life) to be used for food prep and utility chores and to serve as a dive knife. The Rinaldi TTKK comes to mind as perfect. I'd have to add a machette for palm fronds and coconuts.
Stay sharp,
Chad

------------------
Wicked Knife Co.
Hoods Woods
chad234@email.com
 
I prefer a smallish knife (3-5" blade) for knife chores, I have other tools for other chores. However, I'd select a steel named INFI and a craftsman named Jerry Busse to work his magic with that steel. I prefer a dual convex grind, so I'd have to make sure Jerry was advised. I'd want a handle that would resist extreme temps and chemical exposure, all the while protecting my entire hand from the bare metal. Not wanting to attract undue attention from sheeple, I'd simply call the end product a Basic 3 or Basic 5 as it may be. I'd then have to have Normark create a sheath for that knife, which would also have to hold on to my Swedish FireSteel. OH MY GOD!!!!

That knife is attached to my belt right now! What a coincidence! LOL

------------------
It's not the pace of life that concerns me, It's the sudden stop at the end.
 
A fifteen inch bolo styled knife, just off straight handle, with the build strength/toughness of a Battle Mistress, but the weight and thickness of a machete/panga. Its my hardwood machete. One day I'll find it, but for the present I'll live with my Blackjack Marauder II.
 
I think that a survival knife has to be the kind of thing that one is likely to actually have with them when in a survival situation. I don't think that most people can carry a huge fixed blade so I toss most of them out at the beginning. Therefore:

I think that a good folder fits this bill best. It should have a hole for a lanyard so that it can be secured in situations where dropping it could mean loss. I like a drop point blade best but I think that its largely a matter of personal choice as to what one considers most functional. A strong lock is a must.

I'm not a big fan of serrations because while they may not need to be sharpened for longer they would be almost impossible to sharpen without proper tools. I wouldn't object to a small area of serrations but it needs to be smallish to leave lots of room for a proper blade.

I think that for a survival knife I'd like something very much like a Sebenza with some kind of rubberized inserts to give me just a little more grip if it was wet. I wouldn't mind it being a bit larger than a Large Sebbie too. Give me about another 1/2" to 1".

A slightly larger model would still be something that could be carried on one's person at almost any time and the over all quality and strength of the lock would serve me well in almost any situation.

------------------
"I'm inuspeptic, frasmotic, even compunctious to have caused you such pericumbobulations."--Mr. E Blackadder (The Artist Formerly Known as Roj Avon)

[This message has been edited by Mr E Blackadder (edited 06-14-2001).]
 
Well, it would be a large fixed blade, and I have this philosophy about large fixed blades; I should be able to use them for utility/camping chores, for dispatching aligators and boar, and for self defence. and still look good.

What I'd want would ammount to a Chris Reeve Prjoect 1, only it would have a slightly wider 8 or 9 inch blade with a perfectly symetrical spearpoint, a flat saber grind and no serrations.

I would like the buttcap to be steel and the coating to be black titanium oxide or else just brushed steel.

------------------
http://schoolofarms.tripod.com
 
Hey Snick, have you checked out the Reeve Shadow 1? It's like a larger Proj1, with 9" blade and no serrations. Very trick.
 
I have a Chris Reeves Tanto1 with a 9" blade and I suppose this could be considered as a survival blade,however, I have yet to take it out of display so I don't know what to tell you about performance. Most of the CR one piece knives are touted as being very good "survival knives".


------------------
Ron,
Bremerton, Washington
0071.gif
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top