Im a new maker

L

L.K.Smithy

Joined
May 22, 2007
Messages
273
Howdy, im 19, taking lots of metalworking classes, working in my smithy at home and new to bladeforums. Iv been blacksmithing and making knives for about 3 years. im at a point where im comfortable selling my work for others to rely on. i took some pics to get some feedback on my style and what everyone thinks. mostly i focus on functionality, i love the look of a knife with a rustic, fire scale finish. i enjoy the character each piece has from hammer marks, hand tooling and use. after teaching a few workshops for some friends and a group of blacksmiths i take classes with i began to make some blades to focus on fit and finish so i can sell them. Mostly im looking for advice and opinions and to see if my stuff is worthy before i spend the money to sell here. These are my most recent knives.
DSC07801.jpg


And the knives i plan to sell....
DSC07813.jpg


my EDC :D
DSC07812.jpg


Looking forward to all thoughts, opinions, criticism, compliments, suggestions.
-Lou
 
Welcome to the Forums.
Those sure do classify as "Primitive Look" knives.

While there is a niche for blacksmith knives at some places (like Renaissance fairs, Buck-skinner events, and such) , most of the folks who would buy a knife here are looking for higher quality and a better fit and finish.

That said, you have a unique look to your knives, and with some improvements, may have a salable item. I would work on cleaning up the lines a bit more ( the "Brute de Forge" is fine, just the profiles and handle shaping). Work on the guards some. And, try to come up with a good sales name for your style, like "Lou's Frontier Knives". Of all the knives shown, I think the one pictured in your hand is the most salable. It has a good look, functionality (you can USE it), a different style, and could be reproduced the most reliably.Most of the others look more like wall hangers or decorative pieces.

The best way to find out what the market for your knives is to try selling them at a place where buyers go. A local knife show, a pioneer days, gun show, Renaissance fair, etc. - Start with ten of your best knives. See what the people like and how many you sell. I would not start off by going to a big show.

You can certainly upgrade your membership here and try some on the "For Sale" forum. I am always amazed at what sells and what doesn't.

One critique, I have had a bit of experience with decorative blacksmithing effects, such as your twisted guards. They look great for decorative letter openers, but lack strength and reliability in user knives. They tend to snap off easily, and are inherently weak by their nature and the amount of manipulation required to make them. The guards will either need a thicker and more robust junction at the blade, or have to be much smaller and simpler to survive much use.

Stacy

BTW - What steel are you using?
 
Looks like a good start.
I think you should spend a little more time on fit and finnish...(both lerning how and doing). I too like the forged look on some knives, but there should be a fairly clean line between sanded area and forged area. The sanded area should have NO hammer marks left. Maybe some nicer wood. Sheaths look good. Spend some time on these forums and you will learn alot. Try and find a bladesmith near you that has been doing it a while and see if you can visit.

Like Stacy...I think the one in your hand is the best.

Just my 2 cents L.K.;)
Welcome to the forums!:D
Mace
 
A good start. I agree with all of the above.

I would add that it is extremely difficult to pull off the "rustic" look. When going for a "rustic" look, you want people to look at it and realize that it was meant to be that way. If it looks like you just have trouble cleaning up grinds, or fitting guards and handles, instead of looking like you meant it to be that way, then it will be perceived as look quality instead of craftsmanship.

The "rustic" look is actually, IMHO, the most difficult style to create successfully.

Pull up a chair and join us. The fact that you can make those fancy liitle curly cues means that you have talent. Read all the stickies at the top of these forums, especially the "For the newbie maker just starting out as well as the seasoned maker II" stickie. There is a ton of information in there that you'll find very valuable. As you advance, please feel free to ask questions when you can't find the answers. Someone here has probably faced the same issues as you have. We are all on the same journey, just some of us are further down the highway than others. You'll find this group very open and free with their advice and knowledge.

Welcome to our little community.

Great start. I'd love to see you advance in your chosen stlye. It's a joy to see each of the individual styles that are represented here, and your style will be a welcome addition.

Ickie
 
Thank you, all of this is about what i thought i would hear. i appreciate the critiqueing i agree that i have work to do on fit and finish, i am working with almost zero finish tools, and i cant spend time to do it by hand now. As far as functionality goes however i think my pictures don't do them justice, i would trust my survival to any of the knives i have here. just my opinion. also, i know the scroll work on the knives is weak (except my camp bowie with the double guard scrolls, i cant break em) and i have started to pursue guards and bolsters. i used those as a decorative element and don't plan to sell those.

thanks for the comments so far, i hope to have the two unfinished knives done soon with some finer finish work and i will post pictures.

-Lou

Oh, and the steel is 5160. i have had nothing but good luck with it. it hardens and tempers beautifully.
 
L.K.Smithy said:
Oh, and the steel is 5160. i have had nothing but good luck with it. it hardens and tempers beautifully.
Click to expand...

This quote is fantastic. You're using a good steel for a new knifemaker and.......A new knifemaker who comes in to our little group already knowing the difference between hardening and tempering is awesome!

Ickie
 
oh yea:D, i have been making and studying knives for three years, iv taught classes on heat treating and bladesmithing. i think what is showing here is my lack of fit and finish because im struggling with a lack of tools. this is good, im getting a clear picture of what i need to work on.:)
 
mace, point me in a direction! lol. i admit i should probably be more patient doing hand work:jerkit:. as of now the tools i use in order are a 4 inch angle grinder to refine the convex bevel iv forged, a flap sander disk on the same grinder, sometimes a finer sanding disk on a drill, and paper by hand. im looking into a buffing wheel and trying to make friends with a neighbor who has one. What do you use?
 
How about the addition of some good quality files. They are not fast, but can cure a bunch of ills. Don't penny pinch on them. Good ones will make a big difference.
 
i use files, but on the hollow grind they are of little use. i file and sand all the edges though. and have been happy with file work on my last two. ill have pics of them tomorrow or so.
 
I'm using files more and more on my guard and handles. With files you'll have a lot of control and will get the shape of guard and handle that you're after.

p.s.
I ruined a lot of handles by putting them against a grinding belt. I've learned that slow and steady wins the race.

Ickie
 
I like the one with the 2 grey C clamps on it as well. Nice forge work! Personally my biggest problem with knifemaking is getting at it - I spent too long sanding and prepping for HT! I like the red leather with the style of your knives.

Have you considered using stag or compressed leather for your handles? I think you are on the right track with big camp knives and EDCs like the one in your hand.
 
thanks, the one in the clamps and the other unfinished knife are done today, ill be putting up the pics later. i have been thinking about stag. not sure how it behaves though. i think ill look into it. and i have loads of scrap leather pieces, thats a good idea.

im really glad i asked about my work before i set out to sell here, all these comments have helped me get an idea where i stand.

-Lou
 
A lot of makers here have websites with galleries of their work and shop tours. You might want to spend some time looking through those. There is also a For Sale section of this forum with many pictures of knives that have sold and prices they went for. You might find that enlightening also.

For what it's worth you are not dealing with the AVERAGE knife user when you approach the members here. They (we?) know steels and heat treating, grinding and finishing, bevels and microbevels, and the tooling and TIME required to achieve different levels of fit and finish. My point is that your audience here expects PERFECTION and recognizes it when they see it.

I do believe that the heart of the knife is in the heat treat myself. If you have conquered that (with carbon steel anyway) you are well on your way.

Syn
 
LK, A buffing wheel is only going to help if you have a very...VERY good high grit hand finnish. It's all about the prep work before buffing.
I take my knives up to a 220 grit on my grinder and then start my hand sanding using old 120 grit belts and backing them with hard wood or micarta. I take out ALL the machine marks by sanding the length of the blade...then switch to 220 and sand in the direction of the width...then 400 the length and so on till my final grit.
Lets see those new knives!:D
Mace
 
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