I'm afraid of the buffer...

Tom its a good day in the shop when you set something on fire!! kinda like it aint a party till something gets broke...;)
 
I don't use a buffer much any more, ain't no future in it. :)

But when I first started, everything was bright and shiny and mirror finished full of scratches. Everything I made was rounded and washed out. All the pins on the handles were like little bumps. Ahhhhh! I loved to buff! I still have the holes in the wall and the chips in the floor to prove it.

C Wilkins
 
I agree that the buffer is dangerous! It is usefull in the shop and must be treated with respect.
Having said that, I find it most usefull in sharpening. When the edge is completed as a final step I give it a pass or two on the white wheel. It will change the mearly sharp to a true scary sharp. I had the opertunity to show that to a knifemaker who is much better than I am. When he finished his edge I gave it a pass with the buffer and the hair was removed from his arm better than a razor.
Try this with care.
Lynn

BTW, I wish someone with more knowledge than me would list the buffer types and compounds. I know what I use but I'm sure there are much more available.
Hint, hint, Mr. Wilkins.
 
Originally posted by Lynn
BTW, I wish someone with more knowledge than me would list the buffer types and compounds. I know what I use but I'm sure there are much more available.
Hint, hint, Mr. Wilkins.
Click to expand...

...calling Mr. Tichbourne...calling Mr. Tichbourne.

But until George shows up, check out How to buff and polish.

Edit
Hey! Check out the website above! I was just going over it and they have just about everything anyone would need for buffing. I didn't even know that "blue" buffing compound existed!

C Wilkins
 
Good web site, Mr. Wilkins! Just spent 1/2 hour and bookmarked.
Thanks, Lynn
 
I spent a little time at Caswell too, found the section on powder coating. That looks like fun! Naturally, the powder coating will suffer from use and could cause dissatisfaction in a less sophisticated customer, so may not be a good option for sales. But I might enjoy a bright yellow EDC... :D

At a recent gun show two different ladies asked about pink handles. Hmmm. What about pink blades to match? This has possibilities! I wonder if you could get a sufficient caveat across to ensure your customer wouldn't lose faith when the coating started to wear.

Dave
 
Pink huh, Dave? Your knives must definately be getting too "pretty".:D Don't feel bad. Once I had to dye/stabilize a stag handle purple for a lady. I thought it looked horrible:barf: but, she loved it. Make the customer happy right.

As far as buffing. I asked this question to a couple different makers last week at a show. When I polish my hardware ( brass & nickle-silver) I first sand it down to 800 grit then buff on a sewn muslin wheel with mirror white matchless compound. Whenever I start though it seems like the surface of the material suddenly has tiny specks or pits all over it that takes awhile to get mirror smooth. I assumed, being self taught, that this was a normal phase of polishing until talking to others. They suggested that I had crap in the wheels or compound, so I bought and put on new wheels and opened a new bar of compound. Same thing happened. What the heck! Anyone else have this trouble?
 
I'd have to agree with everyone who says the buffer is the most dangerous piece of equipment in a shop! I've seen many blades get thrown with quite a bit of force!

BTW, if you want to see what could happen, next time you see Bill Herndon at a show, ask him to take off his shoe! :eek:
 
Originally posted by rlinger
I stop and set back for a cigarette and go back at it but try to remember caution.

rlinger
Click to expand...
I'd fear the cigarette that is a slow death...


my buffers are 1750 RPM's low HP and I hang on tight,
as said with edges and points down,
I use the white then just a bit
(very little bit) of green chrome,
it can cut to fast leaving divots IMHO :)
 
Buffers are truly unholy if you are timid. Best to go with caution at all times and have a firm hold on whatever you are buffing!

This reminds me of the long hours I would spend on my wood lathe. Any of you who has turned wood using a skew chisel will immediately relate to the initial "skittishness" you have after yor first catch. Buffers are the same way I guess. Just be safe and use good techniques! PRACTICE!

Darn good subject!

Jeff
 
Do not use the buffer instead of good finish sanding, get up to 800/ 1000 (or better) grit first, then use a VERY light touch with a VERY heavy grip. This will prevent "washing" out details.

I use only sewn cotton 8" wheels on a 1725 RPM 1/2 HP motor. The loose Buffs will throw that knife in half a heart beat. Be carefull about presenting a "leading" edge to the wheel.

I get to 600 grit by hand then Jackson CR(600 grit), Jackson 51(1400), then Caswell Blue(2000)when details are not as important.

Black spots or streaks mean you need more compound on the wheel, It only takes a few seconds to load a wheel and about 5 to 7 to use it up. Read the Caswell tutorial. Hot water, dish soap and a well worn toothbrush will remove the black. ALWAYS clean the work before moving up to the next grit. Get seperate wheels for each grit and if you can use a different wheel for each different material, gets pricey but keeps cross contaminaton down. I keep my wheels in seperate Baggies that are labled for compound and material type.

Can't say enough about Caswell Plating for good products and support, I got an e-mail answer from them on a Sunday.
 
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