I'm going to be a stripper! UPDATE: Forced patina on the BK2!

Love alot of these pics!! I have used vinegar with ok results on a few blades. But, Birchwood Casey Super Blue, & Brownell's Oxpho Blue have pleased me the most. They aren't free or cheap like taters, onions, or mustard, but you can get a very nice finish with 'em. And the Oxpho finish actually wears quite well for a cold blue. I do make a few light slicing drags across an old candle for edge protection, because the edge will take a pretty good amount of degradation. I had a carbon Mora's edge just turn into a tiny bitty saw blade lookin' critter on me.
 
Don't be afraid of the rust, just scrub it off. Underneath will be a nice dark oxide layer.

I once used cold blue for a patina. Blue it, rinse it then soak it in bleach for a few minutes. 0000 steel wool removes the rust and leaves a patina that looks like it's 50 years old.
 
The reaction needs oxygen for a proper patina, so spread your mustard thin. The areas with the least mustard will end up being the dark parts of your patina.

I clean my blades with alcohol before forcing a patina. Oily fingerprints can affect the patina.

My BK11, I stripped, steel wooled, then applied ketchup, which made a light, even patina. I then cleaned off the ketchup, and brushed on some mustard.

The BK14 was stripped, sanded, and mustard was applied twice.

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This patina came from cutting strawberries.

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I used a lemon for my current patina.

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To patina a blade, all you need to do is nothing. Just use it as you normally would. Once in a while clean it off, dry it and lightly oil it. I use motor oil, some people use mineral oil, you could use vegetable oil. The patina helps prevent rust.

Sooner or later, the blade will get darker and develop some stains. If it gets rusty, brush it off and oil it a little more often. The patina is that change in color.

A forced patina is using some type of acid to speed up the process or create a pattern. Cold blue gives a nice consistent finish, mustard works b/c it is mustard seed mixed with vinegar. White vinegar is the strongest, then cider, then wine. Rice wine vinegar is one of the weakest. Something stronger like muratic acid would rust the blade almost instantly and would like etch into the metal in very short order - I would not do this unless I was intentionally trying to etch the blade. (muratic acid is strong and dangerous and paperairplane is not responsible for your chemical burns, blindness, ruined knives, etc)

The reason mustard does not do a lot to BKT's is b/c these are 1095 CV - that little extra vanadium gives you some stain resistance properties. Other carbon steels will rust much easier. D2 rusts less and is almost stainless.

You can also accelerate the process the same as any other chemical reaction - stronger acid, longer application time, add heat, add pressure...
 
ok, so I got home from work, ditched the mustard and I was able to find some vinegar at the DFAC. I put in in a baggie with the vinegar for about 20 minutes and now letting it set out to air dry, it looks darker, but no pattern. Pics to come
 
As previously stated, more oxygen = better patina. Put the knife on something flat, lightly apply thin coat of mustard, wash off after 30 mins - 1h. Turn around, repeat for other side.
 
Stripping the BK2 today! Pics to come tonight. Can't wait to get my wood scales from Marathonman!

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Aw yeah, that's nice! Now that you're in the desert, you won't have problems with rust, but when you get home, check under the scales for rust frequently. Dampness can get under those scales and get the steel rusting there pretty quick.
 
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