I'm going to stabilize leather spacers from now on!

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Oct 23, 2006
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What is it about leather spacers that screams, "Please poke me with your fingernail the second you hear I'm made of leather."

My wife's friends were seriously testing my patience on super bowl Sunday... I had to round up all my toys laying around the house and put them away.

--Brook :mad::mad::mad:
 
What is it about leather spacers that screams, "Please poke me with your fingernail the second you hear I'm made of leather."

My wife's friends were seriously testing my patience on super bowl Sunday... I had to round up all my toys laying around the house and put them away.

--Brook :mad::mad::mad:

I've been putting some thought into this lately. I experimented gluing some leather together with a couple different glues and noticed that polyurethane (gorilla) glue likes to soak into the leather and make it hard but didn't actually glue the pieces together cause it all soaked in.

That was with 6-7 oz kinda thin so I was going to try it with some 13-15 oz but I don't know if it will soak in as well. so I was wondering if PU glue could be thinned out a little to make it soak in a bit more.

What else is there to stabilize leather washers?
 
To bad you had to put your toys away.:thumbdn:
But I really don't understand why people want to stabilize or soak leather washers in glue. Part of the reason for using leather is for grip. You lose something when you make it plastic.
just my 2c.
Mace

P.S. I do think glue between all spacers(incl. leather) and around the tang is a good idea.
 
Ariel Salaverria had a post recently about stabilizing leather, I think that if it is for a spacer and not for a grip, why not?
 
You can soak it in 24 hour cure epoxy as well. but you will loose the very thing you are looking for in a leather grip. Which is of course, GRIP!

Now tell your buddies to keep their finger nails out'a your knife handle!!!

Mike
 
bjalongi, I see your point. And may I say, that's a really nice knife! I love the layered guard, I've been thinking about something like as well.
 
Thank you for the comment. I feel that this is my best work to date. Aside from the buffer, all work was done with hand tools after forging. Since my belt grinder burned up, I've been on a back to basics kick and I feel as though my style is getting nailed down. I'm sure there are knife makers out there who will comment on the fact that there is no plunge line, but I really like the look of my blades without a plunge line. I can grind a plunge line quite well, but prefer this style - that's the beauty of knife making. Also, I prefer a convex grind on hunters, because I feel it works better for skinning, and this is an all purpose hunter that I made specifically for myself. I'm tired of giving all my blades away to hunting and fishing buddies. Although, some of them are pretty rough on knives, so it's a good way to field test my work.

I recently replaced my grinder, but actually haven't been using it much, except for when I use the slack belt to clean up scale. Go figure. That will probably change when I get a Coote or KMG in the next month or so.

Brook
 
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I think the smooth "plunge" is fine, just a different way of doing it. I reckon it takes as much skill as a regular plunge. If you really wanted to be picky, you could say the smooth one is stronger because of no stress riser, yes? (I doubt it makes a lot of difference)
 
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