Im just a lowly stock removal guy - please help me forge

That is a HUGE forge for bladesmithing. :eek: You will burn a huge amount of gas just keeping it up to temperature.

Check out Ron Reil's burner page. Even if you don't use his design, he has some good rules of thumb for BTU's per cubic inch of forge volume.

If you could find 8"-10" diameter 3/16"-1/4" wall pipe, say 14-16" in length, I think you'll find that it's a nice size for a bladesmithing forge. Put two 1" layers of
kaowool in, coat with satanite and/or ITC-100 and you'll be golden. It doesn't get any easier. Building up from plate is a little more work, but not bad.

As others have said, the metal doesn't need to be thick. It only holds the real insulation (kaowool) in.

Dave
 
Also you may want your forge portable (in case of ....). Though i didnt move my forge yet I am sure I will need to. Thin wall is good. Also you want to make damascus, so you want to effective insulation and intense heat: Keep the volume minimum. 8" wide, 8" height and 10-15" long box interior space will be optimum I suppose. Add to thickness 2" for the insulation and 1/4 for the wall. The forge might seem tiny but it will out perform any ordinary large forging forge (reach higher temp, consume less gas, heat quick). Also dont forget the billet you will be dealing wont be too long or thick - if you intend to forge only knives and damascus. Dont forget to coat the forge with ITC 100 as flux will eat kaowool.

I couldnt find ITC in my country, I use cat-litter on the forge floor.

If you didnt forge anything ever, then you should learn how to hammer, preferably from a local blacksmith. It seems easy from a distance but it is very tricky. The advice a blacksmith give, will ease the hammering process significantly.

Happy hammerin'.
Emre Kipmen
 
Michael, I would say cut yourself a foot long piece of that 2x4 weld some ears on it, bolt to a big heavy solid base, and goe to town! Tim and Marian Lively have a video Knifemaking Unplugged, where they use a 4"x4" piece of steel set in a 5 gallon bucket of concrete for an anvil.......seemed to work pretty good too...
My advice is use what you have at hand, and keep your eyes peeled for a used anvil in good shape. Look in antique shops, classified publications, the news paper, garage sales, junk shops. In the past year I picked up a 185 lb Hay Budden for 100.00, a 96 lb Mousehole for 150.00, and a 300lb cast steel swedish anvil for 300.00. ONe came from a junk shop, another from a garage sale, and the third from a classified publication.
Bigger is better, more efficient, but all you need is a piece of that 3x4 in and a 5 gal bucket of cemet to get you going....
Good luck! and have fun!!!
Ed
 
You guys have all been great!!

Thanks for all the info. I couldnt do this without your help.

I have a lot of work to do to make my own damascus. Lets see if its worth it.
 
adammichael said:
You guys have all been great!!

Thanks for all the info. I couldnt do this without your help.

I have a lot of work to do to make my own damascus. Lets see if its worth it.
Click to expand...

Oh, it's worth it, Michael. However, you'll probably be cursing us for helping, later, because damascus is also addictive..... :D
 
Micheal,
One big thick chunk is best , but try the plate if you can get it cheap. By the way if you want to chat irl, I'll be in janesville wi. on apr 1,2,3 at the badger club knife show.
Delbert :cool:
 
delbert ealy said:
Micheal,
One big thick chunk is best , but try the plate if you can get it cheap. By the way if you want to chat irl, I'll be in janesville wi. on apr 1,2,3 at the badger club knife show.
Delbert :cool:
Click to expand...
Ill be there. Lets get together if you have time.
 
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