I'm just starting out knife making.

Joined
Mar 14, 2017
Messages
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Hello everyone I'm knew to this forum and I'm just looking for ideas and helpful tips on knife making. This is my latest knife I made. I choose to make this by combining a few attributes from some of my favorite knives.

It's made from leaf spring material.
1/4" thick
15 3/4" long
3 1/4" wide (at it's widest points)
The holes are 11/32"
The handle is double wrapped para cord.

I left the deep defects and some of my hammer marks in it instead of grinding and polishing them out because I thought it gave the knife good character.

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Nice job & hopefully you're having fun. It's a steep learning curve, but worth the effort. Welcome to the party!
 
Thank you It is a lot of fun from building my forge to making the knife next is a sheath.

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How much does it weigh? Is it a practical weight for carrying around on a long hike?

What is it supposed to cut? To be frank, the blade doesn't look like it would be much sharper than a hatchet, so I'm guessing the purpose is clearing brush.

What purpose will the saw tooth section serve?
 
Tryppyr: My knife is on the heavy side it weights about 1.5lbs I have not been able to field test it to know for sure if it's of a practicle weight.

It's meet to branches and small trees for shelter or through bone of an animal if need be. I have it sharp enough to shave the hair off my arm, and it has other cutting purposes. The recessed edge near the hilt (draw knife) can be used to cut flat spots on smaller sticks or bone for trapping to get them fitting together better. Where the draw knife edge meets the main body of the blade, that corner can be used as a pivot point to cut smaller wire.

The saw tooth on the back... my idea was to have the ability to saw a notch in the length of a Green sapling the length of the the handle, then take off the paracord handle slide the knife into the knotch and lash it to the Green sapling to use either as a long cutting tool for harvesting food up in a tree or as a spear.
I did test the saw teeth on a dead hard piece of white ash and it cuts well. The saw teeth are cut on a 60 degree angle like a hand saw, and are about 6 teeth per inch. I cut them in with a triangle file which is on a 60 degree also.

I also left a flat spot in front of the hilt just before the saw to use as a strike surface for a ferrocerium rod.

I hope this answered your questions. Anything i can improve on let me know. Thank you
 
Tryppyr: My knife is on the heavy side it weights about 1.5lbs I have not been able to field test it to know for sure if it's of a practicle weight.

It's meet to branches and small trees for shelter or through bone of an animal if need be. I have it sharp enough to shave the hair off my arm, and it has other cutting purposes. The recessed edge near the hilt (draw knife) can be used to cut flat spots on smaller sticks or bone for trapping to get them fitting together better. Where the draw knife edge meets the main body of the blade, that corner can be used as a pivot point to cut smaller wire.

The saw tooth on the back... my idea was to have the ability to saw a notch in the length of a Green sapling the length of the the handle, then take off the paracord handle slide the knife into the knotch and lash it to the Green sapling to use either as a long cutting tool for harvesting food up in a tree or as a spear.
I did test the saw teeth on a dead hard piece of white ash and it cuts well. The saw teeth are cut on a 60 degree angle like a hand saw, and are about 6 teeth per inch. I cut them in with a triangle file which is on a 60 degree also.

I also left a flat spot in front of the hilt just before the saw to use as a strike surface for a ferrocerium rod.

I hope this answered your questions. Anything i can improve on let me know. Thank you

As A general rule of thumb, simple is better.
 
and orient the saw teeth on the back the other way around, so they cut on the pull movement.
Otherwise you might bash your hand on the object you try to cut while aplying force

welcome to the hobby
 
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