I'm looking for a good utility EDC

Both the Benchmade Griptillians mentioned above and the Spyderco Endura/Delica knives are excellent. The Spyderco knives have a very pointed tip which is useful for a lot of tasks, but are somewhat fragile by all reports. I say this because I have seen several posts here about broken tips on Spydercos. This makes sense because the Spyderco tips are much narrower than those on most knives.

Nevertheless, those narrow tips are very useful in getting into tight places, and the Spydercos are excellent knives as long as you avoid heavy prying with them.
 
Benchmade Grip vote. I was in the same spot as you and I bought one and really like it. Only thing I didn't like was the plastic feeling handles, but I got over it quickly. This knife flicks open faster than my assited Kershaw and flicks shut just as easily. Blade is rock solid - not any play at all and keeps a keen edge.
 
jujawa said:
If you're looking for something small, then i'd also recommend the Spyderco Calypso Jr. I prefer it over the mini griptilian because it is a lot more comfortable to carry. Also has better blade steel in my opinion. The flat ground VG-10 is great.

If you want something bigger then i'd go for a spyderco military or benchmade 806D2 AFCK. Both are awesome. I prefer the military, but the afck has the awesome axis lock and a lot of people prefer that.
Those last 2 are a bit out of what I was looking to pay, but I'm keeping the calypso in mind.

Edit: Right now the griptilian is looking very sweet, and the axis lock seems nice, probably in black just because I think it looks cooler that way.
 
My vote here would be for either a Delica or Endura. From your previous post, since it seems you'd prefer black knives? Both endura and delica are availible in with black blades. From my personal experience EDCing an Endura, all i can say is i've never been happier...the VG10 is just amazing, the edge holds very well (i've never had to resharpen it for the 6 months i've had it) but of course that depends on what you are going to use it for. Previously I've EDC'd a BM mini-AFCKII but IMHO the 153CM seems more brittle than the VG10 (i've had the tip of the blade chip off) whereas I've never had that problem with the VG10 considering I use it just as hard.

Also to add, if you are considering using it as a utility knife, i'd recommend not buying a black bladed knife whether it be BM or Spydies, for the teflon coat does tend to get scratch marks from hard cutting over time.

Well, hope that helps...
Cheers! Pat.
 
For me, steel is the 1st consideration when choosing a knife and I'm a huge fan of S30V.

Doug Ritter's Benchmade Griptilian is my suggestion. I prefer the mini, but you can go with the bigger blade if it suits you.

Reasons are: at $100 for S30V along with an Axis lock which is IMO the strongest lock for production folders...you can't beat this deal.
rsk_mk1_aeromedix_300wds.jpg

RSK_2minis-full_300w.jpg

rsk_mk1_combo_03-300w.jpg
 
Alvin Hom said:
For me, steel is the 1st consideration when choosing a knife and I'm a huge fan of S30V.

Doug Ritter's Benchmade Griptilian is my suggestion. I prefer the mini, but you can go with the bigger blade if it suits you.

Reasons are: at $100 for S30V along with an Axis lock which is IMO the strongest lock for production folders...you can't beat this deal.

I'm extremely tempted by this, but it's about twice what I was hoping to pay at the start (I am perfectly willing to go above 50 somewhat, but doubling it seems a bit much), and although I think a better steel then 440c on the regular grip would be nice I'm not sure it's worth the $35 more or so it would cost, I think if it were more like 75 I'd probably get it.
 
If you are willing to pay $75 for it, the extra $25 to get to $100 is not a big step away.

How long are you planning on keeping it? 2 or 3 years? Even at 2 years the extra $25 spread out over 700 days is 3 cents a day. You ignored that many pennies lying on the sidewalk everyday. $25 is skipping you morning Starbucks for a week...a small price to pay for something you are "extremely tempted by." If you are that impressed with the Ritter, it'll be worth the small sacrifice.

This is exactly how I talk myself into buying stuff. :)
 
you f***er, I'd almost convinced myself that I really didn't want to pay that much for a knife, and now you've gone and made me have to think about it again-_-.
 
Luckylefty01 said:
you f***er, I'd almost convinced myself that I really didn't want to pay that much for a knife, and now you've gone and made me have to think about it again-_-.

Your problem is your thinking too much, just spend spend spend!!! ;)
 
An EDC is a personal evolutionary process
(I'm not coming all filosofical here... can't even spell the word :D )

It's just a matter of fact - that it is highly UNlikely that one will buy the "ultimate" EDC knife on the advice of others.

Sure we have a lot of very knowledgable people here who do give very good and valuable advice.... but it's their choice not yours.

It's time and experience that will lead you to the EDC that you'll carry for years - or you might just the type that will rotate or change EDCs - then more the merrier.

Of course I'm not suggesting buy just any knife and carrying it - but it could almost come down to that - and you already kind of have done that - and the lesson you learnt was to learn more, right?

If you really want to see what people on BladeForums actually carry as an EDC - check out this very long (it is in fact the longest, most viewed, and most replied to) thread on BladeForums -

EDC - What's in Your Pocket(s)??

My suggestion is not to be too overly concerned with the "technical" specs - of course I'm not advocating "junk steel" - the steel is important - afterall it's the "heart" of a blade - but design and and how it fits the hand in use, how comfortable it is to carry all contribute to one's choice/love.......

For example read how many people carry a SAK (Swiss Army Knife) as their EDC - including knifemakers (who have the choice of steels as well as the ability to make their own EDC.......) yet the "inox" Victorinox steel is not exactly exotic or premimum - it gets the job done, not only that there are many who will attest that SAK blades are extremely sharp... why? - blade geometry and good evolutionary design from simply years of experience making these knives.......

So... maybe you could put one of these in your pocket, at a very low cost - you'd be surprised how much they'll get used even if you carry another "premium knife"....

53891_l.jpg
53929_l.jpg
54941_l.jpg
53949_l.jpg

left to right:
Waiter (53891) ~$10; Soldier (53929) ~$16; Compact (54941) ~$19; Bantam Alox (53949) ~$12

These are what I consider "minimalist" SAKs - any of these will have more functions and utility than any single bladed knife - including prying... :D (for example the Compact has a ballpoint pen....).

Please see:

Minimalist SAKs

--
Vincent

http://UnknownVincent.cjb.net
http://UnknownVT.cjb.net
 
Unknown VT makes a good point. Like many others, I EDC a SAK together with a larger, locking blade knife. A SAK and a TAC -- it's a winning combination. You always have an extra blade (or two), a sheeple-friendly knife (if that matters to you), and a knife to loan to the idiot who wants to borrow one without putting your more expensive knife at risk.

The suggestions above are all good. The BM 551 Grip is great. You also can't go wrong with a Spyderco Endura or Delica. Go and handle the Grip and Endura/Delica. The Grip is a sturdier knife than the Delica or Endura, but the Delica and Endura are very thin and easy to carry, and plenty durable for normal use.

If you're willing to spend more money, about $100, there are of course more choices, like the Ritter Grip, or the Spyderco Military and Paramilitary, all of which have S30V blades, or with a little more the BM AFCK (806D2).

You might also want to begin saving for a sharpening system. The Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker is popular and does a good job of maintaining an edge.

Good luck!
 
I'd like to add that I also carry a tiny SAK EDC on my keychain. It means a lot to me because my wife went out and bought it for me. It's a sterling silver one from Tiffany that gets used a lot. The ultra thin blade while not tough is scary sharp. I've cut thin wire with it, but wouldn't go much harder on the blade than that.

The Ritter can take a lot more work. If you look on the Doug Ritter website, you'll read about cutting branches to build shelters and other survival stuff.

I guess it depends on what you're going to use it for.

It's okay to carry more than one knife for more flexibility.
 
I do actually already have a SAK (the tinker I believe) that was one of my first knives (well actually a replacement for the one that was one of my first knives, since I lost the first one I had), and I like it a lot, but also want a good folder.

I'm already planning to get a sharpening system eventually (probably the sharpmaker, since it's like only 10 or so more dollars more then a stone and guide.

In the phone book there seems to be only one knife shop fairly close to me, but I plan to call that one up and see if they have some of these modals just to go and feel them out.

I definitely understand what you're saying about it being my decision, but I really didn't know exactly where to start, and what was considered by most people a good quality knife, and decided asking you guys would be a good choice, and at least I have some info to work with, even if I ended up getting something different.
 
By all means go to a store and play with the knives. You really can't go wrong with any of the suggestions.

If you fall in love with the Griptilian's lock and action but want S30V steel, you gotta get it from Doug Ritter's site...that's the only place you can buy them.

If you haven't yet bought from 1sks.com, it's a good site, and buying from them helps support this forum, so it's a way to give back for this service. They'll also do their best to match competitor's prices so you can always call them and give them a chance to earn your business.
 
Since you are now almost ready to spend more money, ;) you could try the Spyderco Paramilitary. You can find it under 100$, it has S30V steel, full flat grind blade, G-10 handles and compression lock (which is IMO, even more reliable than the axis lock).

link to the Paramilitary
 
Alvin Hom said:
If you are willing to pay $75 for it, the extra $25 to get to $100 is not a big step away.

How long are you planning on keeping it? 2 or 3 years? Even at 2 years the extra $25 spread out over 700 days is 3 cents a day. You ignored that many pennies lying on the sidewalk everyday. $25 is skipping you morning Starbucks for a week...a small price to pay for something you are "extremely tempted by." If you are that impressed with the Ritter, it'll be worth the small sacrifice.

This is exactly how I talk myself into buying stuff. :)

This cracks me up. It is such guy thinking. I am as guilty of this as anyone. Lets see I want to or can realistically spend X but if I really like something I might go up by another 25-50. Then I see something that is 100 more than I wanted to spend lets see I was going to spend X+50 and this is only 50 more. LOL By the way the Ritter grip is on my Christmas list ;)
 
Luckylefty01,

Check out A.T. Barr's Little Gem and Little Bit linerlocked folders at www.customknives.com These are sweet little folders, typically made with CPM S30V handrubbed blades, and if you go with stainless bolsters and jigged bone handles, are quite reasonable for a custom knife by a top maker.
A.T. is also making and furnishing handmade sheaths for his folders now and the workmanship is A.T.'s typical top grade.
A.T. does thes folders in both right and left handed.
 
dialex said:
Since you are now almost ready to spend more money, ;) you could try the Spyderco Paramilitary. You can find it under 100$, it has S30V steel, full flat grind blade, G-10 handles and compression lock (which is IMO, even more reliable than the axis lock).

link to the Paramilitary
The biggest problem I can find in the paramilitary is that it seems to be right handed only, the clip is fixed on one side and it looks like the lock might work best from one side only too. although I think I like the looks of the grip on the Ritter better too. Thank you for the suggestion though.
 
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