I'm looking for a more efficient surface ginding method.

B

Bikesnfire737

Joined
Jan 1, 2013
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Howdy. I'm a longtime reader and am trying to do my first batch of knives. I'm having an issue with my surface grinding step. I'm trying stock removal of Uncle Al's 5160. I've profiled the blades and removed the scale w/ vinegar. I'm currently trying to surface grind on the cheap w/ a granite surface plate and 9x11 sheet of course emery cloth. I'm only using the emery cloth sheets because I figured it would move steel faster than AO sheets and I haven't been able to find any ceramic 9x11 sheets. I guess my questions really boil down to, "Is there a better way to achieve a flat surface without using an actual surface grinder and/or attachment?"
Thanks in advance for the help.
 
Are you going 60, 120, 220 on the belt grinder? Unless you have a disc sander you are already at 220 working on the granite plate. Frank
 
Oh, sorry guys. I guess I should have said that this is my first knife. No belt grinder or disc grinder in my shop. Just a drill press and hand tools. I profiled with a hacksaw and was planning to surface grind the knife on a surface plate w/ just a sheet of sandpaper but it's like watching paint dry. I was hoping someone might know of either a source for ceramic 9x11 sheets or a more efficient way to do this step without investing in a new grinder.
 
Supergrit.com had a good selection of quality paper. I prefer rhinowet redline. if you have to, AO will work, just start with coarser grits
 
Okay. Did you try getting rid of the oxide with vinegar, that is if it has a coating? That stuff is hard on even moving coarse belts. Frank
 
Yup. Scale removed with vinegar. I'm thinking I've just got to use some AO paper like its free. I'm starting to wonder if I should have cut the bevels first so there's less surface area to surface grind/sand?
 
If it's possible to do just the flats, then yes, why not? You will be tearing up the rest to do the bevels. Frank
 
Draw filing? Use the sandpaper to show the high spots, then go at them with a big bastard cut file till everything is close to the thickness you want.
 
Without power tools just about your only options are paper on a plate like you are doing or draw filing it closer to flat then going to the plate. Either way you will be spending time on a plate. Rhynowet redline paper is excellent paper in all grits. Use the coarser grits to get it flat first then higher to remove the scratch marks from the previous grit.
 
5160 often comes with the thickest, toughest scale around. Next time use precision ground steel and the hand surfacing will go better. I use Redline paper on a granite plate with windex.

Can you machine remove some then hand sand? Once the scale is gone it will go fast.

On the other hand the scale can really work well with some designs, I like to leave it on many of mine and even use 5160 specifically for the look I want.
 
I found that the coarse carborundum emery cloth I had was rubbish for flat sanding; it wasn't really flat, for one thing, and dulled fast, sorry, I mean FAST! I have had better luck with premium bonded sandpaper. 3M make some good stuff, all the way to 60 grit. Use it mounted to glass for flattening plane soles, grinding back chipped chisels, and flattening hand filed tapered tangs.

Assuming you are doing full tang, grinding some relief in the middle of the tang with an angle grinder, bench grinder or power file helps. Starting on the bevels though can make it harder to later find the centre line to mark you edge.
 
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