I'm ruined. Now I gotta sell everything.

these are some my mora's, a wahoo killer (fake mora) and a marttiini big game hunter. for the price I LOVE THEM !!!! i got the Marttiini last week and the mora's today . all of the knives cost under $50 total. i also have my good knives that will never see action until i get to go on my dream trip (appalacian trail) anyway, i am looking for a good scandi type knife but for $ 50 i believe i got a good deal. I was gonna buy a mora 2000 , but opted to buy the middle 3 mora's instead for $24 verses $ 30 for the mora 2000 . Advice - never ever buy a fake mora like the bottom knife (it aint worth the $5 i paid at the flea market for it .)
 

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Mostly agreed. And this is coming from someone who has most certainly used Moras more in his life than about 99 % of the other members posting in this forum. :p

Moras are great disposable beater use-it-and-throw-it-away knives for random use in the woods, at the yard and in construction work, but they don't make for quality primary user blades. Sure, they're a lot better than your finger nails or some $60 "tacticals", but they're still cheapos that simply don't have the cutting performance or the durability of better knives.

It's great to see Moras (and when I say Mora, I also mean "a knife that has been designed for performance in use instead of performance in looking threatening and cool, in other words, a knife actually designed to be a knife instead of a penis enlargement") getting some respect in a market dominated mostly by enormously awkward "cutting instruments" and folding "knives", but quite frankly, some people are hyping Moras up to being something which they were never meant to be, designed to be, claimed by the maker to be, or should never be trusted to be - and this is high quality knives. By all means, sell all your knives that aren't Moras - it's a free country. Just don't expect that you'll be left with quality knives, because that's not what's going to happen.

I'm not trolling, I'm not even trying to ruffle feathers. I'm just stating it like it is, and like everyone around here (here is "Scandinavia") knows it is (and this includes the folks who actually make the Moras). Moras are excellent knives for their price. But are they actually high quality knives? Not in a million, trillion years, no. A lot of people are perhaps confused by the apparently high cutting efficiency of Moras as compared to many much more expensive knives - in most cases probably because they've gotten used to extremely thick, heavy and poorly designed knives designed more for show than go. Just because Moras cut better than extremely ill-designed and crappy pseudo-knife tacticals that cost five times more than the Mora doesn't mean the Mora is actually a quality knife. Even at its very best it is only decent. And that's the bottom line... :p


To clarify: where I disagree with Pitdog's post is his suggestion of Ka-Bar and Buck knives as Mora replacements. Most of the Ka-Bars and Bucks I've seen have been made well for the price, but the designs often leave much to be desired in terms of cutting effectiveness. Let's take the legendary USMC Ka-Bar, for example. That knife is one of the worst cutting tools ever to get popular - it doesn't cut worth a damn out of the box due to the geometry. If you just want to cut things, Moras beat that knife very clearly. But then, there's much in the knife world beyond Ka-Bars and Bucks...

Gets ya the 'taco award for post of the day
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Okay, everybody - the ruse worked! Another new guy is selling all the knives we REALLY want for ourselves!!! Shhh - don't tell him! :D:D:D:D

BWAAAHAAA HA HAHAHAA "hheeeeehheehee (demonic laugh):D
 
I don't think anyone is claiming that moras are quality knives...the fit and finish is dreadfull and the stock is thin...the debate seems to be whether or not a quality knife is needed, as most often what is needed imho is a reliable cutter with good edgeretention that is easy to sharpen with good edge geometry (and carbon steel) all for approx 10 bucks...
 
I don't consider Moras easy to sharpen. Sure, they are easy to touch up, but if you put any kind of dink in the edge you have to hog off a lot of metal to get it out. The way out of that is to start adding secondary bevels, but then you are moving away from what a Scandi is meant to be. That's where the bin comes in.
 
I like the Moras for their light weight, excellent rust resistance, and scandi grind. One stays as a backup in my pack always. I mean backup in the sense that I have another knife in case I lose mine, or need one to keep clean for food use if the other is covered in blood and feathers.

I really think the Moras excel in this role, and also in the role of lightweight knives. I would rather take the Mora than any folding knife, I prefer the scandi grind, and it is lighter than anything similiar to it.

As far as the end all, I carry a nicer knife for EDC, and as a primary woods knife. I think though, that there are VERY few knives that would take the place of the Mora in my pack. I back it up w/ a Bahco saw, so it does not need to do any chopping.

I think for their weight and performance, there is just no reason to take one along. Kabar, no thanks. I tried to buy one, but one look at that thick grind made me pass. It was 50% off too. Buck, could work, but is heavier and doesn't have the scandi grind. Not much point in lugging it around. There is a reason people like the Moras, and it has very little to do w/ their price point, or the cost of other knives they own.
 
What I think recommends the Mora - at least the wood handled ones, I have no experience with the plastic ones - is that a lot of woodworkers use them. These are guys who understand the performance of cutting tools on wood. And I find that a lot of the woodworkers I've known had a variety of the red (wood) handled ones around for carving and other shop tasks.

So I find it hard to believe when people tell me that Moras don't do a very good job on woodworking tasks. Possibly the plastic handled ones have a different, steeper grind than the ones I'm familiar with?

At any rate the wood handled ones perform extremely well. I would be interested to run an SBT or similar through a series of tests and compare the results to one of my old moras. I do believe the SBT to be a better knife in terms of edge retention and durability (at least I hope so for the money!) but I really, highly doubt that the effort required to cut a given material if both knives are similarly sharp is much different with the SBT than with the mora.

I have an Aurora on the way, which I bought because I wanted something LIKE a mora, but tougher. But to be honest with you I am just hoping it performs as well as my moras, because I haven't had a lot of knives that cut as well and virtually none that cut better.
 
What I think recommends the Mora - at least the wood handled ones, I have no experience with the plastic ones - is that a lot of woodworkers use them. These are guys who understand the performance of cutting tools on wood. And I find that a lot of the woodworkers I've known had a variety of the red (wood) handled ones around for carving and other shop tasks.

So I find it hard to believe when people tell me that Moras don't do a very good job on woodworking tasks. Possibly the plastic handled ones have a different, steeper grind than the ones I'm familiar with?

There shouldn't be any differences in the grinds depending on the handle materials - if there is, it's a random fluke (lots of those with Moras, like with any cheap knives). Moras do very well indeed in wood working tasks, especially after you've sharpened them up right (they often come very dull from the factory). Wood working is one of the primary uses the Scandi grind is intended for, and Scandinavian small to medium knives in general designed for.
 
It's true, you definitely have to sharpen them but I don't think I've ever bought a knife and not sharpened it before use...they practically never come with an edge I like.
 
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