Impossible to raise a burr?

Gottagofishn said:
Just one note on workshop lighting. I’m 73 and am enjoying deteriorating vision. My workshop is lit up like an airport using led light panels to adjust the temperature for the lighting. But every knife I look from the spine to the apex with a bright flashlight. Any burr, no matter how tiny will stand out. I highly recommend this tactic for burr removal.
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I wrote/illustrated a book with sections on this, and that is one of the techniques I illustrate: viewing under bright light. Really works, and all I need is incandescent bulb.
 
SharpBits said:
That's why I got progressive sunglasses. Now the dash and radio are clear again!

I'm surprised at how well my cheapie bifocal glasses from Amazon are performing for reading and computer work. Much better than my old prescription glasses. Getting new eye test soon, so new glasses are will ordered. I tend to keep my old ones for too long.



Also, what happened to the impossible to raise burr? 🤣
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This is why I buy the frames, take them home, and put tape where line would be. I test on stairs, in car, etc., and then tell them where I want the line. Also, helps if you get the right RX which is not a foregone conclusion.
 
It's even clearer to me now (ironically), that my vision issues have completely driven my personal emphasis on observing cutting performance to determine if an edge is fully apexed and also if burrs are getting in the way of things. When I've needed to, I've relied on good, well-lit magnification to confirm what I was perceiving. And after confirming, I can then trust the conclusions I subsequently draw about whether the edge is fully apexed and cleanly deburred, based on observing how the edge is cutting.
 
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Obsessed with Edges said:
It's even clearer to me now (ironically), that my vision issues have completely driven my personal emphasis on observing cutting performance to determine if an edge is fully apexed and also if burrs are getting in the way of things. When I've needed to, I've relied on good, well-lit magnification to confirm was I was perceiving. And after confirming, I can then trust the conclusions I subsequently draw about whether the edge is fully apexed and cleanly deburred, based on observing how the edge is cutting.
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Stop injecting logic into a hobby where I've lost count of the volume of collection I have.
 
Blues Blues Awaiting your review! The other measurement, and I don't know if Amazon asked you, is distance between pupils.

This custom number helps grind the lens to center properly on each eye. (Both pupils aren't necessarily equidistant from center.) Custom-made glasses would also put the sweet spot of the lenses higher or lower depending where you will wear the lens, high on the nose, low on the nose, etc.
 
annr said:
Blues Blues Awaiting your review! The other measurement, and I don't know if Amazon asked you, is distance between pupils.

This custom number helps grind the lens to center properly on each eye. (Both pupils aren't necessarily equidistant from center.) Custom-made glasses would also put the sweet spot of the lenses higher or lower depending where you will wear the lens, high on the nose, low on the nose, etc.
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Ann, I don't think it's going to be a technical review. It'll be limited to whether or not they fit me, and if I find them useful for any one or two possible uses I may find for them. I was only given a choice of 1.5x and above...so I opted for 1.5x since 1.25 is my usual for most cheaters.


On the topic of sighting burrs with lights...I use a Surefire I've owned for years which is within arm's reach of where I sharpen...and it usually puts the lie to my thinking I did a nice job. ☺️

Shining the light down vertically on the "apex" and moving it from plunge to tip and back. (Of course, I tell myself it's just dust. LOL)
 
Blues said:
Ann, I don't think it's going to be a technical review. It'll be limited to whether or not they fit me, and if I find them useful for any one or two possible uses I may find for them. I was only given a choice of 1.5x and above...so I opted for 1.5x since 1.25 is my usual for most cheaters.


On the topic of sighting burrs with lights...I use a Surefire I've owned for years which is within arm's reach of where I sharpen...and it usually puts the lie to my thinking I did a nice job. ☺️

Shining the light down vertically on the "apex" and moving it from plunge to tip and back.
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The reason I asked is that depending on the person, those minor differences can make the glasses feel miraculous or not and taint the whole idea if one can benefit from glasses.

I went into a drug store with some text. I tried every pair of cheaters of the same strength. Some of them worked really well, and others were really bad, useless. So, I think this can be what people pay for when they buy RX glasses--a higher suitability and better QC.

Here are some pics I took for a student. The lower pic has no issues--it has asymmetric bevels (pretty uniform) which you can see, but there is no crud-- no matter which direction you move it under the light. The top pic has numerous problems. Is this what you mean?
2024-12-12_130825_crop.jpg2024-12-12_132513_crop.jpg
 
Yep. Under bright light, you can see remaining burr or imperfections remaining to be cleaned up. I was just testing it on a Para 3 which only had one small section about mid blade that needed addressing but was fine otherwise from tip to plunge line. Took a little work on the Cru-Wear but now it's "good enough" for me and sings through phone book paper in both directions.

Previously, I could feel a catch or drag in one of the two directions, usually north to south as opposed to east - west.
 
annr said:
The reason I asked is that depending on the person, those minor differences can make the glasses feel miraculous or not and taint the whole idea if one can benefit from glasses.

I went into a drug store with some text. I tried every pair of cheaters of the same strength. Some of them worked really well, and others were really bad, useless. So, I think this can be what people pay for when they buy RX glasses--a higher suitability and better QC.

Here are some pics I took for a student. The lower pic has no issues--it has asymmetric bevels (pretty uniform) which you can see, but there is no crud-- no matter which direction you move it under the light. The top pic has numerous problems. Is this what you mean?
View attachment 3215991View attachment 3215993
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It looks like this is with the bevel towards you. I generally look from the back towards the bevel, for burr removal.
 
Gottagofishn said:
It looks like this is with the bevel towards you. I generally look from the back towards the bevel, for burr removal.
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Held b/c I’m right handed. As I mentioned, it did not matter how I held the knife. And it is possible to get burrs and defects from this perspective.

It has two primary bevels, one larger than other. The secondary bevels at edge are identical. The larger primary angle is away from me.
 
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