In progress... First double edge composite sword coming together

In the final stretches. Need to finish stylings of hilt components and some carving and file work on the grip. The grip is some ancient fossil walrus jawbone from Mark Knapp.

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Oh I'm diggin' this! Real nice work Scott.

Hey just noticed you're at 18Q this year - I'm 17Q so I'll be able to watch your table and play with your knives when you go on bathroom breaks!
 
Thanks man!

Well a little more work. I'm really hung up on the final patination of the bronze right now. And then I have to solder on some twisted wire at the pommel upper guard junction.. and I suppose she is ready to peen up.

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That's looking really cool Scott . Will you be bringing it to blade? as I would love to hold this one.
 
Thanks guys.

Dave.. Yes I do believe so. I have an agreement with the customer to do that.

But I'm really getting hung up on last minute stuff! I have all the fittings looking nice and I went to glue on the grip and realized that it is slightly cocked to one side. It's flush to the guard.. but just isn't parallel. I like starting with blocks that are machined parallel from the beginning but this wasn't an option. I can obviously work it on my disk and surface plate.. but I hate that slippery slope when you over-correct and start grinding your material away. Does anybody have any tips for doing this other than making corrections and then eye-balling?
 
That blade is AWESOME Scott! A precision mill may be an option to get the handle straight.

Peter
 
Thanks Peter..

I normally do mill my handle stock flat first.. but I couldn't this time. But it's only off by so very little. I think I should be able to just fit it between calipers and see how much to remove.
 
Normally in that kind of situation I would just tape a sheet of 150 grit paper on the surface plate and ever so slowly sand it straight. Failing that, you could try adding some spacers like leather washers that will absorb some of the slop when you squeeze them tight.
 
Well I fixed it. It actually worked pretty well to place it on my surface plate and put a micro level on one end! :-)
 
Is it going to have a sharp point, or is that it?

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Many original Viking-age swords actually had a rounded point like that to better facilitate slashing. Oftentimes in battle the vikings would put their shields up to protect their head and torso while slashing back and forth with their swords below their shield to remove the legs or otherwise incapacitate their opponents. A pointy sword could more easily get hung up in clothing or armor, so the rounded tip was preferred. In fact, King Magnus III of Norway called his sword "legbiter" for just such a reason.
 
Wulf has it... Yep if a Norseman wanted to stab somebody he used a spear. But the tip is flat and sharp.. it would pass between somebody's ribs without any issues.
 
Scott,

It's great fun watching your interpretations and re-creations. I know you're not holding them out as exact museum replicas, but your own shear steel, the authentic motifs, and your knowledge base make these something extra exciting.

I'm really looking forward to seeing this one at Blade.

See you there.

John
 
Thanks a lot John... I'm looking forward to catching up with you. I will have this sword and my single edge.. and hopefully another short sword (jian or fantasy) at my table too.
 
Many original Viking-age swords actually had a rounded point like that to better facilitate slashing. Oftentimes in battle the vikings would put their shields up to protect their head and torso while slashing back and forth with their swords below their shield to remove the legs or otherwise incapacitate their opponents. A pointy sword could more easily get hung up in clothing or armor, so the rounded tip was preferred. In fact, King Magnus III of Norway called his sword "legbiter" for just such a reason.

Perhaps so, but when Scott Lankton made the Sutton Hoo sword back when I was a sprout....it had a pointy point...it looks...correct that way.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
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