I've taken my G10 Drift apart a few times and never noticed anything unusual about the hardware. Screws were comparable to anything you'd get from Spyderco (for whatever that's worth...). As far as Vanax, I think there are definitely some who underestimate the corrosion resistance of most high-end stainless steels, but there are also the ones who complain about any sort of discoloration or staining and immediately start with "is this really whatever steel?" posts.
I live in South Florida, a few miles from the ocean, and spend a lot of time in the pool, at the beach, or on a boat. I've never had an issue with "normal" stainless steels as long as I rinsed them off with fresh water to get the salt off (habit from diving). But I can tell you that the original Spyderco Salt 1 that I got my dad when it first came out sat on his boat for over a decade in the salt air and had no rust on the blade (hardware was a different story). There are so many variables that go into it, from environment to the chemistry of your sweat to blade finish, that it's hard to make many sweeping statements. Some people have horrible experiences with D2 corroding, and I never have, even in a corrosion-prone environment. I don't think it's "salesmanship" to say that Vanax, H1 and LC200N are rustproof steels (and possibly Magnacut - can't wait to try the Manix 2 LW when it comes out).
Overrated: PM2 - I had a Para3 for a long time, and handling the PM2 made me wonder why it has a finger choil; the handle seems plenty big without it, and you trade a TON of blade for the ability to choke up.
(Honorable Mention: CRK - I picked up a beater Inkosi Insingo, and the awful thumbstuds are enough to make me never carry it)
Underrated: the surviving OG Civivis (Praxis and Baklash) - $42.50 retail, decent budget steel (9Cr18MoV with a solid heat treat), impeccable quality; I always talk about the liners on these knives, they're skeletonized, fully polished and electroplated, which is more effort than goes into a lot of knives that cost 2-3x as much.