Large blade (8-11") - Recurve clip point.
I think the recurve adds to chopping power (handle angulature can do this as well) and also increases cutting power by presenting more blade with less pressure. Most Bowies I own are standard clip points, but I like my Busse Mr. Mojo a lot- it's ugly but it likes to work. I'd say second is a trailing point, it gives a lot of belly and doesn't sacrifice a fine point, and gives you an uninterrupted flat grind. Nothing against clip points, I think they are the standard to judge other designs against, really.
Mediium blade (4-8") - standard clip point, drop point. In this size range I have a Mad Dog Arizona Hunter that works real well- it has what he calls "forward included angle" that mimics the effects of a recurve. A clip/false edge would improve the design (I shoulda got a Wild Thing) by giving a finer tip for delicate work. I have a Ron Leuschen Cadet that is a drop point, no clip, and it handles everything I throw at it, from cleaning (and filleting in a pinch) walleye to cutting down saplings for a hiking stick. I like how a clip or drop point aligns the point to the center of the handle, it indexes the knife in the hand just the way I like it.
Small blade 2-4" - wharncliffe, nessmuk. For small blades I really like wharncliffs. I wish I had a wharnie folder! Closest to a "folding nessmuk" is my JW Smith mini-Scimitar, a wide recurve. The big belly gives good slicing action. The only disadvantage the wharnie has is that you can't do a "rocking cut" to cut through tie wraps or such.