Inexpensive convex bushcraft knife?

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Khalnath

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Jun 12, 2005
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I was wondering if anyone knows of a good small fixed blade knife for bushcraft type duties that either comes with a convex edge or has a profile conducive to having one put on. It seems like all the inexpensive knives I see people giving positive reviews to around here are scandi grind, and that's an awfully wide bevel to be convexing. I really like the Fallkniven F1 and the BRKT Aurora, but I was hoping there might be a less expensive option. I do like the scandi grind, I'm just hoping to give the convex edge a try.

I have a 18" HI Ang Khola coming in the mail, so the sharpened prybar niche is filled. I'm looking for something to do fine wood work like shaving curls and notching.
 
The cheapest I've seen the Fallkniven F1 is $84. If I'm not able to find anything cheaper, I will probably just get the F1.
 
Will that work very well? It seems like with a scandi edge you'd have to take off an awful lot of metal to get a smooth curve, since the primary bevel is so long.
 
I convexed this Breeden easily and I think its better suited for bushcraft since it isn't as thick as an F1. Around $90
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The primary bevel does not have to be convexed for the edge bevel to be convexed. Hence the term convexed edge. Sabre grinds, hollow grinds, flat grinds, scandi grinds... all can have convexed edges. Likewise, convex ground blades like those of BRKT could have v-ground edges. They don't, but they could.
 
I do like the looks of that Breeden, but for effectively the same price I would rather have the Fallkniven.

I understand that in general the entire primary grind doesn't have to be convexed, but it seems like without doing that to a Mora, if you convexed it you'd just be fattening out the edge... I have to think that would hurt performance more than the convex edge would aid it.
 
Khalnath said:
I was wondering if anyone knows of a good small fixed blade knife for bushcraft type duties that either comes with a convex edge or has a profile conducive to having one put on. It seems like all the inexpensive knives I see people giving positive reviews to around here are scandi grind, and that's an awfully wide bevel to be convexing. I really like the Fallkniven F1 and the BRKT Aurora, but I was hoping there might be a less expensive option. I do like the scandi grind, I'm just hoping to give the convex edge a try.

I have a 18" HI Ang Khola coming in the mail, so the sharpened prybar niche is filled. I'm looking for something to do fine wood work like shaving curls and notching.
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Actually if your talking about convexing the secondary edge of ANY knife, no matter the grind, it's very simple and takes no more time than putting a normal secondary edge on any knife.

If your talking about profiling the entire edge to make is a zero ground convex edge, then thats a whole new ball of wax.

I have several Moras that I used a mouse pad, and some sandpaper to convex a secondary edge bevel on them and it took minutes.
 
How did this affect the cutting performance of your Moras?

I might try this out on the 740mg I bought, since I decided I didn't really like the grip all that much.
 
Khalnath said:
How did this affect the cutting performance of your Moras?

I might try this out on the 740mg I bought, since I decided I didn't really like the grip all that much.
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For my Moras that are used more for utility thad wood work, it was a plus. I don't get any of the chipping from cutting hard materials, and I find the edge lasts longer as well.

You won't go wrong buying a Fallkniven, but try convexing a Mora just for giggles. You'll be surprised.:thumbup:
 
If you've got a belt you might get pretty results convexing the Black Micarta Xikar – Full tang 440C at 57/58 Rc. You might want to grind out any made in China stigma prints on it though.

http://www.agrussell.com/knives/by_maker/s_through_z/xikar/xikar_hunting_knife_walnut.html


For sheer cutting performance in the face of practical ugliness what about putting a convex edge on a 4” A G Russell Deer Hunter. I bet the D2 one @ 60/62 Rc cuts like a banshee with a convex edge. http://www.agrussell.com/knives/by_...es/a_g_russell_deer_hunter_with_d2_blade.html
 
i would suggest a mora, and use the mousepad sandpaper method with a very course grip if you are looking to cut down the shoulders. something maybe even as low as 100 grit to take off metal fast. i use my belt sander to regrind knives

i have ground plenty of slightly convex scandi grinds, and they work fine. i sharpen my mora convex style. just don't piut on too much pressure.

it's funny, one of the favorite things that everyone always says about moras is that they are so easy to sharpen, or to field sharpen. i disagree. scandis are the only thing i still pull my stones out for. otherwise its just a few passes on the high grit sandpaper and a strop to maintain. so much easier and not half as much worry about angle control. as long as you get it close, you are golden.
 
siguy said:
i would suggest a mora, and use the mousepad sandpaper method with a very course grip if you are looking to cut down the shoulders. something maybe even as low as 100 grit to take off metal fast. i use my belt sander to regrind knives

i have ground plenty of slightly convex scandi grinds, and they work fine. i sharpen my mora convex style. just don't piut on too much pressure.

it's funny, one of the favorite things that everyone always says about moras is that they are so easy to sharpen, or to field sharpen. i disagree. scandis are the only thing i still pull my stones out for. otherwise its just a few passes on the high grit sandpaper and a strop to maintain. so much easier and not half as much worry about angle control. as long as you get it close, you are golden.
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You and I see eye to eye on that one. All my wood working knives are the only reason I have hundreds of $$$'s worth of King water stones for. For all my outdoor/woods/utility blades I use sandpaper as well.

I was looking through my local Woodcraft store the other day and they have completely flat hard plastic bases made to stick sandpaper to for flat bevel knives. If I didn't already have the water stones, I'd invest in several different sizes.
 
"I was looking through my local Woodcraft store the other day and they have completely flat hard plastic bases made to stick sandpaper to for flat bevel knives. If I didn't already have the water stones, I'd invest in several different sizes."

leevalley sells tempered trued glass plates and adhesive backed micron film for sharpening flat bevels...something that i might look into if i was more hardcore about my basic set of woodworking tools. as it is, i use what are traditionally considered bad grinds, but they work great for me so i do it that way.

i slightly convex my chisel blades, and instead of having the front edge totally flat, it is every so slightly cambered, so that it is farther out in the middle than the sides. its very slight, but i like the way it cuts.
 
baldtaco-II said:
If you've got a belt you might get pretty results convexing the Black Micarta Xikar – Full tang 440C at 57/58 Rc. You might want to grind out any made in China stigma prints on it though.

http://www.agrussell.com/knives/by_maker/s_through_z/xikar/xikar_hunting_knife_walnut.html


For sheer cutting performance in the face of practical ugliness what about putting a convex edge on a 4” A G Russell Deer Hunter. I bet the D2 one @ 60/62 Rc cuts like a banshee with a convex edge. http://www.agrussell.com/knives/by_...es/a_g_russell_deer_hunter_with_d2_blade.html
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$60 for a knife made in China out of 440C?!?!? Outrageous!

The second one looks like a great blade, but I can't get behind that handle.

The longer this thread goes on, the clearer it becomes that I'm buying a Fallkniven. :D

tarmix101 said:
For my Moras that are used more for utility thad wood work, it was a plus. I don't get any of the chipping from cutting hard materials, and I find the edge lasts longer as well.
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This knife would be getting used a lot for wood work. Do you think the convex edge would show improved performance on a Mora for this task, or would the scandi grind be better?
 
Khalnath said:
Well that would depend. I do a lot of wood carving. For me, a true, zero edge bevel is a must for carving spoons, bowls, ect....

If we are talking about bush work. Notching, tent stakes, ect..... then no. A good utility blade, with a convexed edge would be better IMO because you will be doing a variety of other things.
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