INFI corrosion resistance

V

Verpus

Joined
Jun 28, 2000
Messages
39
Hi all,
I know that Busse INFI is corrosion resistant, but exactly HOW corrosion resistant is it? I live in Hawaii and find myself constantly encountering rainy conditions and salt water (not to mention various tree and plant saps). I already own a Badger Attack and have had no problems with it so far, but I feel it is because of the coated blade. The reason I bring this up is that I'll soon be getting an uncoated, satin finished Busse and was wondering if I might need to get some kind of blade protectant like Marine Tuf Cloth. Any advice or experience with this would be a great help. Thanks in advance.
 
I have left my uncoated INFI BM remain wet to see how it would rust multiple times. It just takes a light coat which comes off with a worn Scotchbrite pad. If you keep it dry and wipe it down with a Marine Tuf-Cloth from time to time it should not rust much at all.

I intend to see how durable the Marine Tuf-Cloth coating is on the Battle Mistress this weekend by repeating some work I did using Rust Check on a few machetes earlier this week :

http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/001904.html


I have left the Basic (coating removed) sit in salt water for hours at a time. I did not see any major pitting. Again just light rust which is easily removed.

Lee Valley sells a spray which is supposed to extend the cutting life os saws, drills etc. . It is supposed to lubricate and prevent rust and be very wear resistant. I think I'll order some of that and see how that works as well.

-Cliff
 
I think Tuff cloth is just a rag soaked in mineral spirits. Now I am by no means an expert and won't go into what makes tuff cloth good or bad. But I think it really stinks. It has a strong oder that kinda takes your breath away. Kinda smothering. Just go to your local hardware store and buy a small can of mineral spirits. Take a deep breath. After you quit choaking you'll see what i mean. It gives me a headache. And WD-40 smells kinda sweet. and it helps remove present rust and prevents future rusting. And lubricates. I think it's the bomb.

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Everything is negotiable!
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/albumList?u=879893&Auth=false
 
Mineral spirits is just the carrier of the protectant in the Tuf-Cloth, it dries off leaving the coating behind.

-Cliff

[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 07-17-2000).]
 
Major correction, I had read several times on the forums about people eating WD-40 and commenting that it was nontoxic which is what I based the above on. After noticing on the back of a can that it contained mineral spirits I looked up the data sheets :

http://www.wd40.com/english/wd40msds2.html

They do not support the safe to eat policy. According to Sentry Systems, Tuf-Glide and the related products leave behind a coating that is non-toxic, they however do not a material safety data sheet available.

-Cliff
 
Well...I don't know about you guys, but I just like to bury my knives in lyme. After a few hours, I can then safely carve my turkey dinner, then wash it all down with a little turpentine.
smile.gif
 
Matt remind me never to eat at your house. LOL just kidding. But really INFI is very good about rust. Like Cliff said they rust lightly and can be cleaned afterward. But I still say WD-40 is great for knives. It protects, coats, removes old gunk, and lubes the blade for easier and more quiet un-sheathing. And I like the way it smells. LOL. Best stuff on Earth. And I'm not only the WD-40 president I'm also a Client.

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Everything is negotiable!
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/albumList?u=879893&Auth=false
 
I have heard that WD-40 smells relatively "good" because it contains banana oil. True? I dunno.

I have heard from many reasonable people who spoke from experience (on other boards) that WD-40 is not refined to remove varnish-like substances. This is bad for things with moving parts, like mechanical typewriters and handguns or anything you want to move mechanically over long periods of time, and it is reported to eventually clog sharpening stones somewhat. Varnish sets up into sludge over time.

A portion of WD-40's content is purported to be kerosene. My connection to www.wd40.com was refused repeatedly, so I can't go see what info Cliff has read in this regard.

But WD-40 is indeed supercheap, and is the el-cheapo rust preventative of choice for my $18 machete and my working hatchets and wood saw blades after use and cleaning.

Marine Tuf Cloth does leave a bit of odor even after the mineral spirits has evaporated, but it isn't nasty or offending, just a bit strong. I consider that a bit beside the point.

Break-Free CLP is one of the best (but more expensive than WD-40) lubricants for a multitude of things... from lubing handguns and long guns to blades and other mechanical moving things.

This month's issue of GunTests (magazine/newsletter) tested a multitude of rust preventative products on carbon steel subjected to a quick salt spray and a few days outdoors. Break-Free was one of the top finishers. Surprisingly, Tuf Cloth finished low in the middle range of products. That sort of popped my Tuf Cloth bubble.

Therefore, I plan to repeat a smaller scaled version to prove their results to myself.

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rdangerer@home.com

[This message has been edited by rdangerer (edited 07-20-2000).]
 
Hey, rdangerer, I don't know how long "eventually" is, but wd40 is the best sharpening stone cleaner I have used to date. Just hold the stone over a can and spray it down...all that gunk on the stone just falls off into the can and the stone cuts very well with the residue thats left.
Originally posted by rdangerer:
I have heard that WD-40 smells relatively "good" because it contains banana oil. True? I dunno.

I have heard from many reasonable people who spoke from experience (on other boards) that WD-40 is not refined to remove varnish-like substances. This is bad for things with moving parts, like mechanical typewriters and handguns or anything you want to move mechanically over long periods of time, and it is reported to eventually clog sharpening stones somewhat. Varnish sets up into sludge over time.

A portion of WD-40's content is purported to be kerosene. My connection to www.wd40.com was refused repeatedly, so I can't go see what info Cliff has read in this regard.

But WD-40 is indeed supercheap, and is the el-cheapo rust preventative of choice for my $18 machete and my working hatchets and wood saw blades after use and cleaning.

Marine Tuf Cloth does leave a bit of odor even after the mineral spirits has evaporated, but it isn't nasty or offending, just a bit strong. I consider that a bit beside the point.

Break-Free CLP is one of the best (but more expensive than WD-40) lubricants for a multitude of things... from lubing handguns and long guns to blades and other mechanical moving things.

This month's issue of GunTests (magazine/newsletter) tested a multitude of rust preventative products on carbon steel subjected to a quick salt spray and a few days outdoors. Break-Free was one of the top finishers. Surprisingly, Tuf Cloth finished low in the middle range of products. That sort of popped my Tuf Cloth bubble.

Therefore, I plan to repeat a smaller scaled version to prove their results to myself.

Click to expand...



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Ron
 
Doc Ron Hood posted a very helpful description of some of his experience on page 8 of the great debate about talonite. I'd link to it but my computer is sick and my connection here is so slow I'd be an old[er] man before I found it.

[This message has been edited by HJK (edited 07-22-2000).]
 
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