Cobalt
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Dec 23, 1998
- Messages
- 17,712
This always seems to be a topic of contention. Most of us that use INFI know it has very good resistance considering that it is not a stainless steel. But in looking around I found this and it is very telling. I find it interesting how INFI compared well to VG10. I myself have had similar experiences with ATS34 vs INFI. Good reading below. Hope you enjoy.
I examined the corrosion resistance of M-INFI several times and each time was impressed with the results. The first time I just left the blade covered in a 1/2 litre of water for 3 and a half hours. This however failed to induce visible rusting or make any impact on the slicing ability. Making the environment a little harsher I put it back into the water and poured a tsp of salt across the
blade. Five and a half hours later the blade was examined and a three very small rust spots were found, being about 1 to 2 mm across. The edge did not feel significantly different. Ten hours later the blade was examined and no additional rusting was evident. The slicing ability still had not significantly degraded. All rust was then removed easily with a Scotchbrite pad and the edge restored to the x-coarse finish.
Making the environment a little harsher and including the TOPS Steel Eagle for reference
(1095), I put both blades in a steel pan. Each knife was covered with water (3/4 litre) and 2 tsp of salt was poured along each blades. After five hours the TOPS blade was covered in rust along any non-coated area (as expected) and the slicing ability of the blade was cut almost in half. The edge on the Basic was not effected and the blade showed little effect from the soaking except for
a few light rust spots along one side of the bevel (the side facing the metal pan). The rust on the Basic was removed when the blade was dried, the only resulting effect was a few water spots visible along the bevel. The TOPS blade still had rust remaining after drying (much was removed though) as some parts of the blade are engraved and ground out (blood groove and such) and escape contact while drying. Interesting enough, the TOPS blade formed a lot of black rust as well, this was not present at all on the Basic. After drying the blades were again exposed to a corrosive environment.
This time determined to effect the Basic I poured a mixture of salt and water (2 tbsp per 8 oz) over each blade, put both in the metal pan and then added an additional 8 oz of the salt water. This left the blade exposed to the air as well as the water and I hoped the movement of the air would induce
rusting faster. After 4 hours I checked on both blades and this seemed to be evident. The TOPS blade was again completely covered, with corrosion, mainly black rust though as I never removed much of it from the last soaking. The Basic had some spots along the spine and the bevel. When the cutting ability was checked a significant difference was noted in both blades.
Based on that it would seem to me that you would need a fairly corrosive enviroment in order to worry about functional degredation due to rust. I have not seen any in actual use. When it thaws here I will lend both Busses to my brother as he frequently goes saltwater swimming.
-Cliff
Recently I have been doing very high stress corrosion soaks as I wanted to examine the ability of Talonite to resist rusting. I was doing about 20 hour soaks in a salt solution of 8 table spoons of table salt per litre of tap water. The Talonite didn't rust but what I found interesting was that I was seeing large scale edge damage to D2 and even VG-10 and ATS-34 blades.
Under a scope at 10X mag I was seeing small chips like about .1 mm deep. However when I tried to sharpen the blades the edges went to pot and the chips blew up to about .3 mm in depth and whole sections of the edge up to 1 mm in length cracked off. I repeated this a few times, which was a real pain as it takes a day to do the soak and a lot of time to grind all the weakened metal off the edge, and the results were very consistent.
What does this have to do with Busse Combat? When I did this a few months ago on the Basic I didn't remember seeing any edge damage after the soaks, I saw rusting but the blade sharpened easily on an 800 grit ceramic rod. However I was using a milder solution and not soaking as long so I couldn't accurately compare the results. But of course it was fairly easy to check.
I first soaked the Basic by itself and then with a VG-10 blade. As before the VG-10 blade showed functional edge damage and required a significant amount of work to restore the edge. However what surprised me was that the Basic showed less damage both times. Even though I did see rusting visible on the blade the edge did not get as damaged nor did it crack apart when I attempted to sharpen it. It took 15 strokes per side on an 800 grid ceramic rod to restore it to push shaving sharp.
This doesn't make a lot of sense to me, I would have expected the stainless steels to be less effected along the edge. However rusting is very much a random process and I will repeat the soaks a few more times before I am satisfied that I am seeing a real effect. It is interesting though. I think I will get my BM back and do it with it as well.
Jerry, yeah, we are not too distant relatives, Grandpa has me in the looks department but I am probably a little brighter.
-Cliff
[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 02-14-2000).]