Infi shines better in convex blade or v grind?

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d.weglarz13

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Jun 4, 2008
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Hey, I wanted your guys opinions on Infi on a 6" blade (3/16" thick) and if you would prefer convex grind or v grind? I know a lot of guys say convex is better, but still so many can't make up their mind, so what about with Infi? and, why would a V grind be better than a convex? thanks guys, any and all opinions welcome and appreciated.
dave
 
For chopping pure physics will tell you that a convex edge is better, but personally I have never really noticed that much of a difference between the two. Personally I like V grinds. :)
 
psychicevolution said:
Okay, consider me ignorant here, but what is a "zero edge"? :o
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That's when the convex grid starts from the spine and goes all the way to the edge. It's the most ideal blade shape for chopping.

Take a clam shell and cut it in half then look at the profile. :)
 
psychicevolution said:
Okay, consider me ignorant here, but what is a "zero edge"? :o
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Convex primary leading into a convex edge, giving no real discernible bevel.

sarqfinished.jpg
 
Ankerson said:
For chopping pure physics will tell you that a convex edge is better, but personally I have never really noticed that much of a difference between the two. Personally I like V grinds. :)
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Between the two, i've noticed a difference. Now if we're talking a full convex grind, the difference is very noticeable, I can take much deeper bites than with a saber grind and a v edge.

All my knives are convexed, some just the edge, others the whole knife.
 
230grains said:
Between the two, i've noticed a difference. Now if we're talking a full convex grind, the difference is very noticeable, I can take much deeper bites than with a saber grind and a v edge.

All my knives are convexed, some just the edge, others the whole knife.
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With a full convex yes there is a noticable difference. :thumbup:

Other than that, it's so small it doesn't make a difference to me, but then a lot of it could be technique. :D

Then there is also a dual edge that is very close to convex. ;)
 
Also be careful about your terminology and what you mean - a convex edge, or a convex primary grind?

Or the full convex zero edge, which smoothly blends a convex edge into a convex primary grind.


There are lots of variations of all three - the NMSFNO CG came with a convex primary grind with a V ground edge, while the LE version of the same knife was a full convex zero edge. The Swamp Rat Vex is a flat primary grind, with a convex zero edge that's blended smoothly into that full flat primary grind (maybe the primary grind has a slight convex, but it's not much). Or you can reprofile the edge on a saber or full flat ground knife to have a convex edge, like I do on all my blades when I sharpen them.

Lots of variations, and it can be confusing unless you are very specific about your meaning when you talk about them.




As far as benefits - convex edges are very robust, and when blended well into the primary grind, they have no corner to bind up so they slice and chop very well. Convex primary grinds are awesome for chopping, since they don't get stuck in the wood. Their performance batoning isn't as noticeably different from a full flat grind, but they are WAY better than a saber grind, which can bind up like crazy due to the sudden transition where the saber begins.


Clear as mud? ;)
 
For me, I like the Convex Edge better. It's a lot easier to Sharpen for me. I just hav'nt been able to get the hang of Sharpening a V-Edge yet. :o
 
Short answer: its a personal choice and there is no right answer.

I guess I'm in the minority here - I've owned both and I've come to prefer a classic V grind for my basic uses...

V grinds are easier for me to sharpen on the sharpmaker - I just stink at getting consistent angles for convexed edges when using the sandpaper and mousepad.

Anyway, for my basic usage, I could never really tell a huge difference in performance enough to reprofile from a 40* V grind - it just works and feels reliable for me :thumbup:

With that said, I do keep a few Barkies that are convexed and used when I need a scary little scalpel of a slicer.

Again, I think it comes down to choosing a blade and edge for the specific task and what you are comfortable with.

V grinds are excellent for my general purpose blades - I think there is a reason why Busse Combat ships most of their combat grades with this profile... YMMV :D

.
 
Personally, I find the best geometry to be a flat grind with a convex bevel. Since I hand sharpen, it gets convexed on the edge eventually, anyway.
 
The best edge is the sharpest you can do IMO .... in simple terms it depends on where you are in sharpening skill .... on a 6 inch knife using V grind sharpening systems like a Lansky you would still want to move the clamp on the spine twice ... one position for the flat length of the blade and a second position moving the clamp a little nearer to the tip so that the belly of the knife where it curves up to the tip was not at the maximum acute angle but a little steeper. That way and measuring carefully to use trigonometry to confirm your angles you will put on a very consistant and sharp V edge which for a novice not happy with free hand sharpening or free hand belt sander work is a nice safe compromise.

Compared to messing up an edge with poor free hand technique I would go this route to begin with ....

A fully convex primary grind and a tapered in convex edge are great for chopping knives you give hard use to and don't need to keep sharpening on a daily basis ....rather like how you use an Axe ... I say this as taking steel off the knife for a primary grind and tapered or zero edge as it is called does thin the knife out a lot over time ... which is not good for longevity ....

If the 6 inch blade is to be used for fine work like carving which means sharpening and stropping the blade regularly .... I would simply do a convex edge and not re-do the grind so that it is a simple convex edge .... this way you are just sharpening the edge in a convex manner and not the whole side of the knife ....

My sharpest wood carving knives though are done on a flat primary "zero" grind which is a V edge from the spine to the cutting tip.... scalpels and modelling knives are ground in this fashion .... although for a more robust edge you can apply a more obtuse micro bevel or better described as a second angle to the edge right at the edge .... I do this for harder woods .... or cutting leather for sheaths ....

The answer therefore is all "best" edges depend upon intended use and the equipment you have to hand and your skills ....

I started sharpening with easy systems ....and V grind edges .... but a sander and convexing gives huge time savings and gives a more robust edge for all round use ....
 
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V-grind for me on most knives. :thumbup: It's what I grew up using and what I feel most comfortable with, especially on small to medium knives.

I'm going to go against the grain a little here, but I have always been under the impression that pretty much all the knives that leave the Busse shop have a convexed edge on them, at least the ones I've had. I just checked my NMSFNO with a straight-edge and it surely seems convexed. Also, I've reprofiled many Busses on my EdgePro, and the first thing that I always have to do is take off that convexed edge. I started out marking the edge with a sharpie before I sharpened, which made this very easy to see.
 
230grains said:
Between the two, i've noticed a difference. Now if we're talking a full convex grind, the difference is very noticeable, I can take much deeper bites than with a saber grind and a v edge.

All my knives are convexed, some just the edge, others the whole knife.
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Starting to really appreciate a convex grind myself. Have reprofiled a few knives. How long does it typically take you to convert to a convex edge? I know there must be considerable variability. Any hints/clues/tips for your methods/equipment?

Thanks
 
MustardMan said:
Also be careful about your terminology and what you mean - a convex edge, or a convex primary grind?

Or the full convex zero edge, which smoothly blends a convex edge into a convex primary grind.


There are lots of variations of all three - the NMSFNO CG came with a convex primary grind with a V ground edge, while the LE version of the same knife was a full convex zero edge. The Swamp Rat Vex is a flat primary grind, with a convex zero edge that's blended smoothly into that full flat primary grind (maybe the primary grind has a slight convex, but it's not much). Or you can reprofile the edge on a saber or full flat ground knife to have a convex edge, like I do on all my blades when I sharpen them.

Lots of variations, and it can be confusing unless you are very specific about your meaning when you talk about them.




As far as benefits - convex edges are very robust, and when blended well into the primary grind, they have no corner to bind up so they slice and chop very well. Convex primary grinds are awesome for chopping, since they don't get stuck in the wood. Their performance batoning isn't as noticeably different from a full flat grind, but they are WAY better than a saber grind, which can bind up like crazy due to the sudden transition where the saber begins.


Clear as mud? ;)
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GREAT stuff!!! Thanks mustardman:)
 
Greg, you're right - they are sharpened on belts so seem to have a VERY slight convex to them. It's so close to flat, though, that it's basically a v grind for all intents and purposes, and sharpens to a true flat very quickly on stones.
 
MustardMan said:
Greg, you're right - they are sharpened on belts so seem to have a VERY slight convex to them. It's so close to flat, though, that it's basically a v grind for all intents and purposes, and sharpens to a true flat very quickly on stones.
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Agreed - the convex-ness is slight in most cases. The thicker-edged blades seem to have a more pronounced curve.
 
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