INFI vs bone

If you were cutting near the head of the bone that is an extremely hard piece of bone. The leg bone takes so much torque running and jumping the ball is very solid. I wouldn't think chopping through the joint would do that damage but who knows. Strange things happen.
 
Jerry has posted in the past (although I can't seem to find it with a search) regarding the performance differences in the various alloys he uses. Hitting bone was specifically identified as one of those situations where INFI would tend to roll rather than chip (like D2 might). This looks exactly like I would have expected it to. Steel out the roll and move on.
 
I used a COMP. SJ to chop the head, and two front legs off a deer and there was no chipping or rolling whatsoever.
 
i went and checked out the stump, nothing that would affect it, i chop lots of wood on this stump with all my other BUSSE's and have never had any issues, and that is why in came to the conclusion it was the bone from the deer legs, 2 spots on the blade both at the locations i chopped the bone with, thats what led me to ake my conclusions.

Dont think Im bashing INFI, because I am not. I am not the type to abuse my blades, i do use them however and was just sort of in shock that the most expensive BUSSE and the biggest busse i had would chip or roll when chopping bone. like i said learn from your mistakes
 
i have chopped rear leg bones off of deer and ended up with similar dings on my shbm. i was able to get most of it out with a ceramic rod. a small amount had to be sharpened out but it didnt take much. i'd say 90% was just rolled. i wasnt that concerned about the dings. it is after all a knife, not a lightsaber. had i done it with any other knife i have no doubts there would have been large chips broken out or complete failure. a fine tooth saw works best on bone. i really woudnt even care to use an axe. after almost 10 yrs i love my knife and have no doubt i could cut down a telephone pole if i needed too, and still use it to split sternums. i just try and avoid hacking the large bones.
josh
 
Sand? Bone? Isn't that why we pick Busse and the INFI? So it would stand up to, and beyond?

Did we forget the kind of abuse these knives were suppose to stand up to? This is a Swamp Rat and it was "suppose" to chop a cinder block and not get chipped. So why are we nit-picking over sand or tiny rocks in a stump or how hard a bone is, especially with a Busse?

So no, I don't think the chipped edge is acceptable, especially after chopping a bone or even a stump....with a rock in it. Whatever.

http://www.swampratknifeworks.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=10;t=002109#000000

Cool!
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Awesome!
114535Nodamageoutside.JPG

What the heck?! Unacceptable.
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The magic of INFI is that it does not fracture like other steels in a hardened state.
It tears or rolls when stressed beyond it's limits.
I don't think yours is chipped.

I wonder if you still have the deer legs.
It would be educational to experiment with some other blades:D:D
 
dduangrat said:
Sand? Bone? Isn't that why we pick Busse and the INFI? So it would stand up to, and beyond?

Did we forget the kind of abuse these knives were suppose to stand up to? This is a Swamp Rat and it was "suppose" to chop a cinder block and not get chipped. So why are we nit-picking over sand or tiny rocks in a stump or how hard a bone is, especially with a Busse?

So no, I don't think the chipped edge is acceptable, especially after chopping a bone or even a stump....with a rock in it. Whatever.

http://www.swampratknifeworks.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=10;t=002109#000000

Cool!
115849SRBlockImpactshot1.JPG

Awesome!
114535Nodamageoutside.JPG

What the heck?! Unacceptable.
DSC02412.jpg
Click to expand...




I get Drunk All the time and abuse my INFI... Stones , bricks , light posts , concrete.... Whatever ... INFI holds its own like nothing else.... Its a pleasure to work with... Pfffffffftttt Bone?? Not a problem..


Super Cool !!! :cool:

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Ultra Awesome !!!!!!!! :cool::cool:

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Happens with some knives. My CGFBM would take a direct hit on a burried rock with nothing but rock dust coating the edge to show for it, my NOE on the other hand rolled significantly just gently setting the edge down on some concrete. My SS4 edge was even worse and just plan flopped around like it was made of mild steel. To make a story short, after 1 resharpening (more like 2 in the case of the ss4) both were performing like the FBM, as they should. It's either decarb from heat treating or overheating during sharpening, but it happens to almost every manufacturer (see s30v chipping for examples) Infi tends to get a bit floppy when overheated it seems.
 
^^ See, now that's what I'm talking about. Are there different tolerances for different batches of knives? I remember a post a while back, someone snapped a tip after stabbing a stump or something. And all I heard everybody say was, "....you must have hit a rock."

Uncle_Jarvis said:
I get Drunk All the time and abuse my INFI... Stones , bricks , light posts , concrete.... Whatever ... INFI holds its own like nothing else.... Its a pleasure to work with... Pfffffffftttt Bone?? Not a problem..


Super Cool !!! :cool:

Picture416.jpg

Ultra Awesome !!!!!!!! :cool::cool:

Picture063.jpg
Click to expand...
 
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I would like to see the thickness of the bone and where the cut was made. Over here in the UK we can hunt deer all year long depending on sex and species and I shoot quite a lot of deer. All of which I gralloch and then butcher out in the larder. I usually do cuts into the pelvis sockets to free meat and tendon and then twist to dislocate the leg at the top of the thigh but at the base I just snap back the leg at the first joint and cut through the cartilidge.....so I am unsure where the chopping cut was made?...and suprised at the edge damage....??

The rolling on the blade like that should not happen on a properly Rockwell hardened blade which has not been sharpened at less than 23 degrees....ideally the edge should be more obtuse at 25 degrees up to 30 degrees on a heavy chopper. If the edge has not been sharpened with angles which are too steep and thinning out too much metal on the edge.....which would cause a "roll" effect in any steel or worse a chipping effect....my thoughts would be to send it back to Busse just to get it checked.

Even Busse could have had supplied some steel not quite right....the edge looks like a factory one....properly obtuse at the right angles.....and personally I would be suprised to find that happen to my NMFBM. My Cleaver is made from lesser steel than Infi and whilst I usually saw off the head ( ball joint ) of the back leg thigh bones I have cleaved the odd front ones....which are thinner usually....if that is where the chopping occured .....and not had edge damage like that.

But if you were hitting or going through the "ball joint" ....this is in my experience wider and harder....so seeing the bone where the cut was made would be interesting.

I just sold a FSH to Jeremy which Uncle Jarvis had used to chop breeze blocks and there was no "rolling" like that..... but ofcourse the edge could have been restored afterwards....but there is a big difference between breeze block and a deer's leg bone....so maybe getting it checked would be a good thing.

I know there have been a few CGDF's which had a bad batch of steel which had some air bubble issues which in the edge caused weak spots.....it can happen to anyone you know....no one is impervious to getting a problem with the steel supplied....even on the law of averages this has to happen sometimes....

Edited to add.....Just seen Yoda's post on heat and sharpening on the factory edge....that works for me as the most logical explanation.
 
Infi VS. light post ? no problem ...

Infi VS. Hardened threaded steel.... NOT GOOD ...







Just a minor flesh wound :D:cool:

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I reprofiled the edge .. all is good.... :thumbup:

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dduangrat said:
^^ See, now that's what I'm talking about. Are there different tolerances for different batches of knives? I remember a post a while back, someone snapped a tip after stabbing a stump or something. And all I heard everybody say was, "....you must have hit a rock."
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That was ME !!! :D Busse made things right though .. no regrets ..

That little guy put up a fight :thumbup:

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dduangrat said:
^^ See, now that's what I'm talking about. Are there different tolerances for different batches of knives? I remember a post a while back, someone snapped a tip after stabbing a stump or something. And all I heard everybody say was, "....you must have hit a rock."
Click to expand...

In a manner of speaking. As far as tolerances at the factory, they're all given the same high quality heat treat, with special exceptions( boney active duties). Infi is awesome, and the toughest steel I've used, but it's still just a steel that's made and heat treated by humans. Narrow, thin blades aren't as tough as the thick ones, and edge decarb is something custom makers have been fighting with for years.

I don't know the particulars of Busse's manufacturing protocol, maybe they foil wrap certain knives before heat treat, or grind them after heat treating. So it's definately possible for different batches to behave a little differently, but normally nothing that won't be fixed by a good sharpening or 3. I've come to expect this from a new knife, but if it doesn't get better after a few good sharpenings then it's time to call up the shop ;)
 
I will get some pics of that deer up pretty soon. :cool:

P.S. Dont you think using a NMFBM to bone a deer is kinda an overkill? :rolleyes:
 
INFI definitely shouldn't chip on bone, and I've never seen it happen. I'm sure that it can happen, though, especially with a factory edge. Anyone who's ever used Moras a lot will have noticed that sometimes either heat treat or grinding has f'd up the edge and made it extremely brittle or soft, so that it requires resharpening or even reprofiling before it actually works as it should. In Moras it's so common it's nearly the rule. In expensive knives like Busses, it should be and seems to be far rarer.

What I would do if I were the original poster: resharpen the blade yourself, and then find something even harder to chop than the bone that dinged your edge. If that dings it again, send it to Busse so they can check it out and you can have your peace of mind. :thumbup: If it doesn't get damaged, then you're good to go.
 
Peter is right that,, Jarvis's Brick Chopper had no rolling, just some small chips out in the sweet spot.. but can be easily fixed.... the NMFBM i received had a very sharp thin edge for a Busse Chopper.. Jerry has told me before on other posts like this, that it could not be the heat treatment. So i really don't know what to say.. except I would repeat my tests and if the results were the same.... I would send it to have Garth look at the edge! INFI should win this battle every time.. With Busse offering these thinner edge choppers some edge damage will happen.. Convex micro edges are a bigger responsibility to the owner.. I really watch what i cut with my Banned and my own modded blades.. This profile gives you another dimension of penetration in Wood!! I look at them like a fine cutting tool in Magnum Size! Unreal Bite! on the other hand I believe,, A traditional CG or FFBM would roll with crushing power through that bone like a Mack Truck.................with that said.. I have a very thin polished edge on my NMFBM and have beat the snot out of it.... with no problems yet!
 
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