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So I wanted to do a thread to clear up some confusion that I think has taken place in different areas of the knife world, especially among those new to knives. 4-5 years ago when i got into knives I had no idea what a "regrind" was. Even after really getting heavily into sharpening I was unfamiliar with a regrind and how much of a difference it makes in cutting ability.
So I wanted to do a thread to add some clarity to the issue and to point out that a regrind is not for everyone, but it may be for you - read below.
What is a regrind?
So what is a regrind? Hopefully this can help you out:
[video=youtube;i54jtT9Onuk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i54jtT9Onuk[/video]
Keep in mind that this term can be used also when it comes to your actual edge, such as " I need my edge reground" but really what you mean is "I need my edge reprofiled." So a couple of terms need to be defined:
Primary grind
Secondary grind
Micro-bevel
There is definitely some confusion regarding these terms, and as best as I can tell it comes from the difference between the terms on Japanese type knives and Western type knives. In this first picture below, you will see the terms as used with typical japanese knives. These are the terms that Murray Carter uses:
In this other picture below, these are the terms that I tend to favor more, for a couple of reasons. 1. it makes more sense to me, as the primary grind is the main grind that makes a blade blank into an actual knife. 2. if you have a zero ground blade, using the first picture that would have to be called the 'secondary edge/bevel', which is can be confusing.
And when you get into micro bevels, they are "micro" as in you can either barely see it or not at all. this should be done at higher angles than the edge had been finished at with very light passes. this add's strength to the edge to resist lateral deformation and can also make sharpening much easier. But keep in mind that as you sharpen a micro bevel, it can turn into a "secondary bevel".
Is a regrind right for me?
Well, it depends... what are you wanting to use the knife for? Back to the OP thread title... thinning the entire primary grind down does give you a DRASTIC performance increase, the likes of which most people have not experienced unless they have gotten into customs. It will go longer before *feeling* dull and is MUCH easier to sharpen.
The down side to a regrind is that it *can* make the tip relatively weaker (the extent depends on your blade geometry) and *can* make the edge less resistant to lateral deformation or even blow outs depending on many factors (such as stock blade thickness, grind height and type, and how thin you go w/ the regrind). Although this isn't always the case. This is why a regrind must be customized to the knife and the need of the individual. Personally, I love a dual grind, where you have a spanto or tanto type grind in which the main edge is thinner and the tip left thicker for prying. But basically, if you are not planning on using this for batonning or prying then a regrind would be your optimal choice! If you are, then it still may be desirable in such cases as this, where it is optimized for the specific tasks at hand. Many times the blade is far too thick from the factory.
So if you want high slicing ability and super cutting performance, then yes, you won't experience anything better... this is the "next level" to sharpness. But if you want to use your knife as a pry bar or chopper, then I would suggest customizing your primary and secondary grinds for the hardest task that will be demanded of it (Please click here for an example of a custom grind) . From what I have read and experienced a .030-.035" thick edge is optimum for chopping whereas for slicing, an edge <.010" thick will be optimum.
Another point I want to make about what may be right for you is on zero grinds. A zero grind is basically where you have no secondary grind but the primary grind tapers all the way down and IS the edge. This is the case on things like scandi bushcraft knives. And you have probably heard about "zero ground" Emersons (only ones that come from the factory this way are their customs). Emersons do so well being zero ground because they have such a low primary grind height the edge is still pretty strong.
Lastly, if you want an edge that can retain a lot of strength but still increase cutting performance somewhat, your best bet is a compromise. What do I mean? It is something called a "back-bevel" which basically allows you to thin your edge out (by lowering your edge angle somewhat, maybe to 10-15 dps) and then you can micro bevel that edge for strength. While not as good as a regrind, this is a great option for people who have a Spyderco Sharpmaker for instance, as you only have to re-profile once and then you can maintain at the 20 dps setting, or if you simply want an enhanced performance boost without all the hassle of a regrind
. I will warn you though, regrinds are addicting!
Here are some pics of regrind work for more ideas on what I have mentioned above.
How do I regrind my knives?
Well you can get a coarse grit stone, lay it to where the primary grind is flat on the stone, and grind away giving care to put more pressure towards the edge. Or you can use a belt grinder (which is much faster). However with power grinding extreme care must be given so as to not over heat the edge, especially when zero grinding. This is one reason why I use and suggest others use, a liquid cooling system if possible. The first method is mainly for function. It will function just fine, just not necessarily be "pretty". The second can look nice if you go slow and take your time, and have some experience under your belt. Any knife maker on these forums pretty much can do this as this is how primary grinds are "roughed in" to blade blanks.
If you choose to do this, please post up feedback as I would love to hear how it went and feedback on use.
Please post up pics if you have them!
In these pics below (before and after) notice the thick edge before and the after (a consistent ~.010" thick edge).
So I wanted to do a thread to add some clarity to the issue and to point out that a regrind is not for everyone, but it may be for you - read below.
What is a regrind?
So what is a regrind? Hopefully this can help you out:
[video=youtube;i54jtT9Onuk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i54jtT9Onuk[/video]
Keep in mind that this term can be used also when it comes to your actual edge, such as " I need my edge reground" but really what you mean is "I need my edge reprofiled." So a couple of terms need to be defined:
Primary grind
Secondary grind
Micro-bevel
There is definitely some confusion regarding these terms, and as best as I can tell it comes from the difference between the terms on Japanese type knives and Western type knives. In this first picture below, you will see the terms as used with typical japanese knives. These are the terms that Murray Carter uses:

In this other picture below, these are the terms that I tend to favor more, for a couple of reasons. 1. it makes more sense to me, as the primary grind is the main grind that makes a blade blank into an actual knife. 2. if you have a zero ground blade, using the first picture that would have to be called the 'secondary edge/bevel', which is can be confusing.

And when you get into micro bevels, they are "micro" as in you can either barely see it or not at all. this should be done at higher angles than the edge had been finished at with very light passes. this add's strength to the edge to resist lateral deformation and can also make sharpening much easier. But keep in mind that as you sharpen a micro bevel, it can turn into a "secondary bevel".
Is a regrind right for me?
Well, it depends... what are you wanting to use the knife for? Back to the OP thread title... thinning the entire primary grind down does give you a DRASTIC performance increase, the likes of which most people have not experienced unless they have gotten into customs. It will go longer before *feeling* dull and is MUCH easier to sharpen.
The down side to a regrind is that it *can* make the tip relatively weaker (the extent depends on your blade geometry) and *can* make the edge less resistant to lateral deformation or even blow outs depending on many factors (such as stock blade thickness, grind height and type, and how thin you go w/ the regrind). Although this isn't always the case. This is why a regrind must be customized to the knife and the need of the individual. Personally, I love a dual grind, where you have a spanto or tanto type grind in which the main edge is thinner and the tip left thicker for prying. But basically, if you are not planning on using this for batonning or prying then a regrind would be your optimal choice! If you are, then it still may be desirable in such cases as this, where it is optimized for the specific tasks at hand. Many times the blade is far too thick from the factory.
So if you want high slicing ability and super cutting performance, then yes, you won't experience anything better... this is the "next level" to sharpness. But if you want to use your knife as a pry bar or chopper, then I would suggest customizing your primary and secondary grinds for the hardest task that will be demanded of it (Please click here for an example of a custom grind) . From what I have read and experienced a .030-.035" thick edge is optimum for chopping whereas for slicing, an edge <.010" thick will be optimum.
Another point I want to make about what may be right for you is on zero grinds. A zero grind is basically where you have no secondary grind but the primary grind tapers all the way down and IS the edge. This is the case on things like scandi bushcraft knives. And you have probably heard about "zero ground" Emersons (only ones that come from the factory this way are their customs). Emersons do so well being zero ground because they have such a low primary grind height the edge is still pretty strong.
Lastly, if you want an edge that can retain a lot of strength but still increase cutting performance somewhat, your best bet is a compromise. What do I mean? It is something called a "back-bevel" which basically allows you to thin your edge out (by lowering your edge angle somewhat, maybe to 10-15 dps) and then you can micro bevel that edge for strength. While not as good as a regrind, this is a great option for people who have a Spyderco Sharpmaker for instance, as you only have to re-profile once and then you can maintain at the 20 dps setting, or if you simply want an enhanced performance boost without all the hassle of a regrind

Here are some pics of regrind work for more ideas on what I have mentioned above.
How do I regrind my knives?
Well you can get a coarse grit stone, lay it to where the primary grind is flat on the stone, and grind away giving care to put more pressure towards the edge. Or you can use a belt grinder (which is much faster). However with power grinding extreme care must be given so as to not over heat the edge, especially when zero grinding. This is one reason why I use and suggest others use, a liquid cooling system if possible. The first method is mainly for function. It will function just fine, just not necessarily be "pretty". The second can look nice if you go slow and take your time, and have some experience under your belt. Any knife maker on these forums pretty much can do this as this is how primary grinds are "roughed in" to blade blanks.
If you choose to do this, please post up feedback as I would love to hear how it went and feedback on use.
Please post up pics if you have them!
In these pics below (before and after) notice the thick edge before and the after (a consistent ~.010" thick edge).
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