Instinctive archers

T

Temper

Joined
Oct 30, 2002
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Anyone out there that shoots like this and would like to make some suggestions/comments about the gear/technique in general?
 
Get your self a copy of the book of Instictive Archery by G. Fred Asbell. He's the guru of the sport and his book is filled with good traing tips.

Don't over bow yourself trying to be macho. In fact for just practicing form, Asbell recomends a bow that feels like a big rubber band. Try to have your practice bow and hunting bow the same type. For instance my target bow is a Martin Howett X-200 at 35 pounds. I can shoot that all day. My heavier bow is just a bit more, a Martin Howett X-200 in 40 pounds. Its the one accurite shot that counts, not the power. A broadhead is like a long range knife, it cuts its way in, not smash. In fact its better if your arrow does not go all the way through the animal, like with most of the compounds. With the arrow lodged in the body, any running the deer does moves the broad head around increasing internal bleeding.

Also get yourself some judo points and have someone roll a ball past you and try to hit it. Start with a soccar ball, then work your way down to a tennis ball.

They had an article a couple years back in Traditional Archer magazine about this old guy down in Arkassas, who has all his game tags, and they documented the fact that he's killed 200 deer with a 35 pound recurve.

Study Asbell. He's Yoda with a bow!
 
Good info, thanks!

I was considering a Martin Hatfield takedown and getting about #30 & later buying some heavier limbs for it. What do you think of this particular bow?

I'll get the book from Amazon if they have it.

Thanks again :thumbup:
 
Take a look at a Canadian bow called Chek-mate. I own two of them, as well as a Martin dreamcatcher and Martin hunter. They are competively priced and the CM bows are more forgiving, smoother and IMHO much better fit and finish. A much better shooting bow.

Like was suggested, get Asbels book. You are starting at a good bow weight. Consistent form is the all important factor for consistently accurate shooting. Everything gets done exactly the same way, no matter what possition your body is in relation to the target. Once practiced, you should be able to stand with your back to the target, drop to one knee, twist and shoot and be just as accurate as if you were standing in your usual stance. For hunting pracice, I suggest Roving/stump shooting. There is nothing better to sharpen your shooting eye at unknown distances in open spaces and woodland.

If you havn't already done so, visit stickbow.com and check out the leatherwall, which is their message boards. More brain power on shooting a trad bow than anywhere else on the planet.
 
i shoot instinctive w/ one of the hungarian horsebows (no arrow rest, no nocking point).

as i aim i squat slightly and while holding the bow close to the body, canted about 45 degrees, push my bow hand 'at' the target and release when i reach full draw. probably sounds weirder than it is.
 
I think we all develope our own shooting styles as we develope as archers. I tend to bend at the knee a little and lean towards the target some. As I am raising the bow for the shot, I'm pushing with my bow hand, as I pull the string back to my anchor. I'm on target when the bowarm is in the shooting possition and I hit my anchor. No aiming what so ever. One fluid motion from start to finish and the arrow is on it's way.
 
Cheers guys, I will get the cheaper book for now and I have found a range run by the city that is about $3 an hour and $1 to rent gear. :thumbup:

I can get some instruction as part of that too lol.

I looked into the CM bows and think I may have to get one once I have found a poundage I think I can work with comfortably.

Groovy, can't wait to get stuck in.
 
"Instinctive" archery requires a LOT of varied practice - you got the time and space?
 
I'm not an archer, but I'm a *fair* instinctive shot with a rifle (even better with the shotgun. I learnt from my father who taught me how to shoot with these weapons by using an air rifle using an american technique called 'quick-skill' which is tantamount to "quick-kill". What you do is shoot into the sky with the air rifle and you can see with your own eyes where the pellet flys. Using that I could/can shoot a tin can out of the sky if I throw it, or someone else throws it. So I'm not sure if its applicable but it might be of some interest to you. Anyway, hope that's of some help, and hey I like the whole bow and arrow idea- sounds like fun, maybe I'll give it a go! :)
 
Shooting stuff out of the air with a bow is a blast and not as hard as you might think. Six fletch your arrows, full cut. They go out about 40-50 yards and fall off fast. I've seen footage of Fred bear killing ducks with a bow and I've come close to getting a pheasant. Someday:thumbup:
 
This is interesting. I'd never heard of "instinctive archery" until reading this thread. It sounds like its a matter of shooting as soon as you have the arrow drawn back. Right?

I haven't practiced any archery since the early 1980s. Everyone always used to scold me for not taking more time to aim, but whenever I did, my accuracy would suffer -- my aim would waver, or I'd pluck the string instead of a smooth release. Now I find out that I invented "instinctive archery" on my own! ;-)
 
mewolf1 said:
Shooting stuff out of the air with a bow is a blast and not as hard as you might think. Six fletch your arrows, full cut. They go out about 40-50 yards and fall off fast. I've seen footage of Fred bear killing ducks with a bow and I've come close to getting a pheasant. Someday:thumbup:
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Keep working on your flight shooting. It feels great when you kill your first bird. And second and third.:D
 
Joel Stave said:
This is interesting. I'd never heard of "instinctive archery" until reading this thread. It sounds like its a matter of shooting as soon as you have the arrow drawn back. Right?
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Kind of, but I've found that it's best to lock in your anchor prior to releasing the string. Otherwise, it's too easy to develope bad shooting habits like dropping the bow arm, snap shooting and short drawing the bow. Before working on any kind of accuracy, no matter what system of shooting you are using, it's best to work on form. Once consistent in form, how you grip the bow, anchor and release, the accuracy will come on it's own.
 
Also, you might want to pick up some of Asbell's videos. I picked up one on eBay for around 10 bucks and it's proved very helpful.
 
It is joy in movement. It is letting go of concious thought and letting yourself flow into your target. You don't necessarily have to snap shoot or rush a shot, but if you hold long enough to start thinking about it, you've probably held too long. I know, sounds a little Zen'ish. Well, hell, it is. You should be reaching from within yourself to your target and letting instinct (Tao maybe <g>) take its course. Hence the term, Instictive Shooting.

I haven't loosed an arrow in some time, but when I was shooting I found that anytime I failed to mentally project to the target and started thinking about what I was doing I couldn't shoot for crp. Only when I had that inner connection/projection to my target and just let things fly (pardon the pun) did I hit what I was aiming at, or missed it by only a scant (no, you won't find that in your table of measures and conversions). Much like shooting trap, when the squad's timing is flowing and you surrender yourself the experience takes on a life of its own. Very sublime and satisfying.

I may just have to find another left hand recurve now. Oh yeah, recurve or longbow is really the way to go with instinctive archery. Okay, that might have been overstating the obvious.

Gadget wise, I would just have those clips (forgot the term) or someway of creating a knocking point on your bowstring so you set the arrow the same way everytime.

Okay, I'm off to see Yoda for some bowling tips now.
 
Temper said:
Time is no problem and a move to the mountains is on the horizon :D
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Sweet!

Then go with the basics suggested here: recurve or longbow, low draw weight, a nock on the string for consistency, find your comfortable "lock point" for full draw, then practice, practice, practice, as many different ways as possible.

Don't worry your aim: once you touch your lock point, release. Concentrate on the target, not your aim. Your brain is a fantastic computer, and as you continue to practice, it will figure out non-consciously where your arms should go to hit the target. It does take time and practice though.

Best of luck on your move to the mountains!:thumbup:
 
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