Inswool

K

Keith Willis

Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
812
I am about to order a lining for my forge.This will be my first forge and will proberly order Inswool,not sure,need to know how to stick this stuff to the inside of the forge,also where is the best place to get the stuff.Any other suggestions would be appriciated.

Thanks,Keith
 
I am on the other side of the wrld so msuplier is no good to you.
What I will say is it is very easy to work with. I used the round 8 and 10 inch pipes for my forges. The supplie will cell refractort cement and the ceiling solution to paint onto the wool after it has been fitted. My tip i if you buy the powdered form rad the instructions and follow them carefully.

I as a smart arse. The instructions said simply mix with the correct amount of water and let it sit for 24 hours. yes I was a smart ass and painted it onin about 20 min. It turned out crap. I let the next batch sit for 24 hours. Well bugger me it turned from a thin water mess to a creamy smooth. I don't under stand it but letting the powder sitin the water seams to make it thicken up nice.

Again smart ass at work. I had it finished after the smooth coat went on. I tried t light the forge about an hour later. What a pain in the ass. I could not get it to light frightened the bejesus out of myself with flash backs and flames shooting out the front.

If the linning is wet it will not light without a wrld of missory. Once it was dry it started like a charm.

The next one I made I was still impatiant because that is my nature. I used a small gas torch to dry the inside and in particular the area where the gas was hitting the far wall. That is the most important to be dry so that it will hold the flame alight. Well I hopethat helps. It is easy. Once you have done it once you will wonder what all the fuss was about.
 
Order the insuwool and all the supplies needed from Darren Ellis, http://forgegallery.elliscustomknifeworks.com/
If you look at the FAQ pages on his site, you will find the info on how to stabilize and seal the wool.

The wool does not need to be "stuck" to the insides. The application of rigidizer, and then a refractory coating (usually satanite) will make it solidly locked in place. A final coating of ITC-100 will make the forge more heat efficient. Yes ,it costs a few dollars more to use rigidizer and ITC-100, but those who have built many forges have learned that economizing on the lining doesn't make better forges. If you plan on doing any welding in the forge, a floor coating of bubble alumina is a good thing to do, also.
Stacy
 
i also just built my first forge. built it from coffee can(3lb) got kaowool for the lining from a heating supply place called folcarelli's kinda doubt you have one near but im sure you have a supply place close to where you live. i bought a replacement lining for a furnace boiler, it came "wet" it had a stabilizer alreadt in it. it formed easily to the inside of the can. i used a jh7 mapp gas torch from home depot, i had to have 2 inches of kaowool for it to get hot enough. but as soon as i put 2nd layer it gets VERRY HOT!!!! it was verry easy to make and the wet liner got stiff since the first firing. i laid 16penny nails horizontaly across the bottom for a shelf. the forge works GREAT!!! willy.:)
 
Thanks guys,all was helpful.Thanks for the website Stacy i am going to order the rest of what i need.
Thanks
 
Darren Ellis has EVERYTHING you will need. Bubble alumina to castable refractory ( his castable makes super forge floors,BTW).
Stacy
 
Sorry to butt in, just a quick question to Reg ELLERY
Hi are you close to Perth metro ?

can you drop me a email please.
Richard
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top