Interested in an Ang Khola

Joined
Jan 3, 2007
Messages
56
Hi, I am a noobie here and to Kukri's. I am giving some thought to buying a 15in Ang Khola. But I have some questions.

I understand these are hand made, and at times people end up getting a not so good one. What is the best way to test it when I first get it? And if it fails the test, can it be returned?

Exactly how much wood chopping can this kurki do? Is it ok to outright use it as a small ax if need be? What would you say is the thickest tree you can cut with it? 4in thick? Less?

Can you use it like a hatchet to split fire wood (power it into the log and slam it against the ground till it is through), or is batoning the only way?

And would this be proper batoning: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DaIIat2ghfE

Thank you for any help.
 
Hi, I am a noobie here and to Kukri's. I am giving some thought to buying a 15in Ang Khola. But I have some questions.

I understand these are hand made, and at times people end up getting a not so good one. What is the best way to test it when I first get it? And if it fails the test, can it be returned?
Look in the FAQ sticky. There is a section on testing a kukri. Boiled down to the nitty gritty, you smack the blade as hard as you can on the sides, spine and sharp edge ON A PIECE OF WOOD -- a fallen log or tree is great. I also believe they tell you to bury the tip INTO A PIECE OF WOOD, and pry back and forth. This will insure that the heat treat is up to snuff.

DON'T pry with the whole blade (although the Chiruwa Ang Khola -- exposed tang -- IS warranted for such use, and is the ONLY HI blade so warranted).
DON'T chop into cement, steel or other idiotic things. Mistakes happen in use, but hacking through rebar is not a legitimate test of the kukri's integrity.

Exactly how much wood chopping can this kurki do? Is it ok to outright use it as a small ax if need be? What would you say is the thickest tree you can cut with it? 4in thick? Less?
Once you make sure the heat treat is good, your arms will give out chopping wood before an Ang Khola will. They'll go through any size wood (given time) that you want to go through.

Can you use it like a hatchet to split fire wood (power it into the log and slam it against the ground till it is through), or is batoning the only way?
Either way works fine. You can also use the technique of holding the round in hand, with the blade touching it and bring both down together and dive the blade a little twist at the end to pop the halves loose.

The Ang Kholas, especially the CAKs are Armageddon-ready.

:D
 
Welcome The Man In Black !

The Cpl is essentially right, the Chiruwa Ang Khola is Nearly indestructable, but proper knowledge and due care in their use is important and prudent. Anything can be ruined if you abuse it and the warranty does not cover abuse.

There is a wealth of knowledge in the Link Library at the top of the forum. It has many links and there are also links within. Almost any question can be answered by reading there.

The person in the Youtube video is mostly batonning correctly, despite the lack of technique and the way he unsheathed his blade. He is lucky he didnt seriously cut his fingers. Instructions for proper batonning can be found at the bottom of the safety thread. Which is required reading.
 
Look in the FAQ sticky. There is a section on testing a kukri. Boiled down to the nitty gritty, you smack the blade as hard as you can on the sides, spine and sharp edge ON A PIECE OF WOOD -- a fallen log or tree is great. I also believe they tell you to bury the tip INTO A PIECE OF WOOD, and pry back and forth. This will insure that the heat treat is up to snuff.

DON'T pry with the whole blade (although the Chiruwa Ang Khola -- exposed tang -- IS warranted for such use, and is the ONLY HI blade so warranted).
DON'T chop into cement, steel or other idiotic things. Mistakes happen in use, but hacking through rebar is not a legitimate test of the kukri's integrity.


Once you make sure the heat treat is good, your arms will give out chopping wood before an Ang Khola will. They'll go through any size wood (given time) that you want to go through.


Either way works fine. You can also use the technique of holding the round in hand, with the blade touching it and bring both down together and dive the blade a little twist at the end to pop the halves loose.

The Ang Kholas, especially the CAKs are Armageddon-ready.

:D

How does HI do the hardening on the cutting edge? If I remember correctly, the tip is left soft, while the inner curve is the hardest (not sure about the portion approaching the handle)? And how does the tempering translate to functionality?
 
Can you use it like a hatchet to split fire wood (power it into the log and slam it against the ground till it is through), or is batoning the only way?

And would this be proper batoning: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DaIIat2ghfE

Thank you for any help.

This is the "right way" sort off!
He got it right ONLY in the 3'th pass...
Left hand on the handle, Blade belly on the wood, Right hand batons the remaining blade (tip). However:
Keep the blade straight and don't let it slide through the wood so the tip almost disappears. always use the belly for wood work (chopping, splitting, etc.) it is the hardest part of the khuk anyway.

Welcome!:) and if you are looking for all around "survival" knife search for a Tamang...else all deep bellied khuks are excellent choppers, better that the CS but heavier.
Check the "pictures tread" and take your pick.
 
How does HI do the hardening on the cutting edge? If I remember correctly, the tip is left soft, while the inner curve is the hardest (not sure about the portion approaching the handle)? And how does the tempering translate to functionality?
H.I. khukuri are made from 5160 spring steel and Differentially Tempered in the Traditional and Time honored manner. The Blade is heated to the proper color (past magnetic) and then the sweet spot of the blade is hardened by pouring water over it in the proper manner. The tip, spine and inner curve are not hardened. This provides for excellent cutting ability while retaining the flexiblity and resiliency that 5160 provides and is what makes khukuri in general such tough knives.
 
H.I. khukuri are made from 5160 spring steel and Differentially Tempered in the Traditional and Time honored manner. The Blade is heated to the proper color (past magnetic) and then the sweet spot of the blade is hardened by pouring water over it in the proper manner. The tip, spine and inner curve are not hardened. This provides for excellent cutting ability while retaining the flexiblity and resiliency that 5160 provides and is what makes khukuri in general such tough knives.

Karda, since we have you here, I hope you don't mind a very naive question since you would know the answer:
Where is all that spring steel coming from? Is it indeed ALL coming from old truck springs or is it now made from scratch specifically for knife making and such?
Thank you!
Alexs
 
The Kami's (and Nepali's in general) are very resourceful people. The steel is found and bought from all over Nepal and India. Usually scavenged from Trucks, Buses and the like. The kamis and the people sourcing materials really know their steels.
 
Welcome The Man In Black !

The Cpl is essentially right, the Chiruwa Ang Khola is Nearly indestructable, but proper knowledge and due care in their use is important and prudent. Anything can be ruined if you abuse it and the warranty does not cover abuse.

There is a wealth of knowledge in the Link Library at the top of the forum. It has many links and there are also links within. Almost any question can be answered by reading there.

The person in the Youtube video is mostly batonning correctly, despite the lack of technique and the way he unsheathed his blade. He is lucky he didnt seriously cut his fingers. Instructions for proper batonning can be found at the bottom of the safety thread. Which is required reading.


My questions were about the 15in one, not the Chiruwa Ang Khola.

I have scanned the reading, and I will read all of it.

Thank you for the info so far everyone!

One more question, which holds up better, the wooden or the horn handle?
 
My questions were about the 15in one, not the Chiruwa Ang Khola.

I have scanned the reading, and I will read all of it.

Thank you for the info so far everyone!

One more question, which holds up better, the wooden or the horn handle?
Both styles of Ang Khola come in the 15" size.
Generally for hard use, most say wood is slightly better. It is somewhat subjective though, as Water buffalo horn is pretty tough stuff in itself.
 
Both styles of Ang Khola come in the 15" size.
Generally for hard use, most say wood is slightly better. It is somewhat subjective though, as Water buffalo horn is pretty tough stuff in itself.

Subjectively, I prefer the "warmth" of wood touch, especially with a non-chiruwa handle because it just seems like a part of me that fits perfectly in hand. Bone and steel handles somehow always seem cold and slippery like a fish (sorry for the imagery).

But then again, as far as strength and, more importantly, balance (as has been often discussed) I would go with a chiruwa style in wood. I am sure that some types of wood are sturdier than bone and some less so, I am not professional enough to care enough until I have a failure and that hasn't happened yet. I like Dhar wood which is en vogue now, but standard satisal serves me well too.
 
Welcome to HI and Forum, The Man In Black
 
Man in black.

I have kuk's in both handle materials. The Horm handles are slicker but not so uch so as to present a problem. Personaly I believe it aids in handleing and use. My horn handled M-43 has seen very extensive use under very rough circumastances over an extended period of time. And it is still in fantastic shape with no problems at all. I also have a horn handles 15" Ang Khola which I have used some but not a lot. It too has held up admirably.
 
Are all styles available with the chiruwa type handles? I prefer the strength of chiruwas, but one of the best looking (imho) khuks (the FF) is offered with non-chiruwa tang standard, is that right?
 
Balog. Send Yangdu an email. She can let you know if you can order an FF with the chiruwa style handle.

Ther have been several chiruwa style WWII's show up recently so a chiruwa FF may not be such a long shot.
 
Balog. Send Yangdu an email. She can let you know if you can order an FF with the chiruwa style handle.

Ther have been several chiruwa style WWII's show up recently so a chiruwa FF may not be such a long shot.

I should probably finish saving up the money before I start inquiring about the order. ;)
 
There is very little liklihood that you would ever break a standard Ang Khola with the traditional handle.

The traditional handles are also a bit more comfortable in use to some folks. Personaly I dont see much difference.

The higher price is due to the increased amount of fit and finish work involved in the chiruwa style handle. Personaly I think it is worth it.

However i really like the fit of the handle on my traditional 15" AK.

There was an 18" chiruwa on deal of the day a few days ago that looks like it is still available. It was by Dil. You might contact Yangdu and see if it is still available.
 
Back
Top