Interesting Draw Knife? Questions...

B

Brian Rust

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Nov 14, 2017
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Hello all, I have seen some draw knife stuff posted here before so I figured it was okay. I found these at a local antique store recently. They were marked as “Pair of Draw Knifes” but they are different than any I have seen. They have a convex grind on the edge and not a chisel grind. Also notice the different angles of the grips. I will try to post better pictures of the grips. But if anyone has any info or idea what they were used for I would appreciate it. Because of the shape and grind I was thinking maybe used for fleshing animals? Or are they scrapers? I have not been able to find much. They are very sharp and work well on wood I’m just not sure if that is what they were made for. There are no makers marks of any kind. But the quality of workmenship is very good! Thank you to everyone who comments!!



 
Yes that is true! Thank you for the feed back! Like I said they will take shavings just like my Other drawknifes. They are a little more flexible than I would like though. Hints the fleshing knife idea.
 
I don’t have a lot to add except some fleshing knives are kept very sharp. Otter tails, coon neck/gristle and the center line on beaver have to be shaved, or at least that is how I was taught.
 
The key difference is the fleshing knives are held at close to 90 degrees to the hide. Scrape without cutting when wielded skillfully.

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scraping-deer-hide.jpg
 
Thank you guys! So I am leaning closer and closer to the fleshing knife idea... the only thing holding me up is the reverse grips on the straight blade. If they are to be held at 90degrees to the skin I wonder why the different in grip?

Peck/ Peg.... have you ever seen a short curved edge fleshing knife like the one in the pictures? I have not. One other thing holding me back from calling them fleshing knives.

Again thank you again for all the input! I am still new here and really appreciate it!
 
A beaver knife is extremely sharp with a carbon steel rounded blade. Used the slice the meat off the pelt. The rounded draw knife seems to be suitable for that purpose.
 
I have definitely seen fleshing knives of that length. In fact, I prefer a shorter fleshing knife as it gives you much more control and precision. The perplexing one for me is basically the ulu with handles. I think it would be the real deal on otter tails. I used to hate fleshing otter tails until I got a small/short fleshing knife that was razor sharp. Btw, every fleshing knife I have or have handled is only sharpened on one side.
 
I say fleshing also.

Btw, common in Sweden a ”Späntkniv” is very similar and sharpened two bevels like any other ’scandi grind. Its used alot shaving kindling, but anything goes. Its just a small type of drawkniv.
 
I don't believe that to be a fleshing knife. The edge is to far away from the center of the handles to be used optimally like that. And it seems to be a SHARP angle.
Here is a commercially made fleshing knife.

Note the hollow grind on the back of the blade in this photo.

Its not sharp nor is it dull but it would never shave wood the angles are just wrong to ever be sharp. When I was growing up a square edge of a upside down draw knife(not the sharpened edge) was what we always used.
 
Brian Rust said:
I appreciate the input sir! Now I am really wondering what these are.....
Click to expand...
I think Squarepeg probably had it right in a knife that you could push or pull. Those straight style of handles are popular in foreign made draw knifes. Gransfors makes a larger one with straight handles and I think Mora makes a smaller one marketed for carving. Maybe others?
I have a little 4” draw knife that I use quite a bit, but it has more conventional style handles. I have heard of guys really liking the straight handles but I have never tried one.
Try them out and let us know what you think.
 
Some more on the Mora 220. I don't remember seeing one before.



About Wood Splitting Knife 220
You can use the kindling knife to make smaller pieces of wood so that you can get your fire going more easily. It has a carbon steel blade and a double handle made of birch wood, making it effective and simple to work with.​

Mora doesn't say anything about using it for carving or as a push/draw knife. The cutting edge is double bevel. Knife length is 366mm (14.409 448 819 inch). Blade length is 114mm (4.488 188 976 4 inch).


From Garrett Wade:





Bob
 
rjdankert said:
Some more on the Mora 220. I don't remember seeing one before.



About Wood Splitting Knife 220
You can use the kindling knife to make smaller pieces of wood so that you can get your fire going more easily. It has a carbon steel blade and a double handle made of birch wood, making it effective and simple to work with.​

Mora doesn't say anything about using it for carving or as a push/draw knife. The cutting edge is double bevel. Knife length is 366mm (14.409 448 819 inch). Blade length is 114mm (4.488 188 976 4 inch).


From Garrett Wade:





Bob
Click to expand...
Some similarity to the Pfiel draw knifes. Which I think mine is. Its seems to be slightly hollow ground on both sides.


My favorite ten inch, a vintage Greenlee is also hollow ground on the flat side. It might have been on the bevel at one time also and it has just been sharpened out? It a big advantage in sharpening I think. This little knife is a quality tool that has gotten a lot of use over the last decade or so. I usually prefer it over over a spoke shave but not everyone would like it.

Pfiel also makes a straight handled version of this little draw knife.
 
garry3 said:
My favorite ten inch, a vintage Greenlee is also hollow ground on the flat side.
Click to expand...
Does it look like this?




I also have a 10" PEXTO and a 8" Oakleaf. All three have a slight curve in their blades. If you hold them in a horizontal plane with bevels up looking at the edge they curve downward between the handles. All three are vintage/used but fwiw, they have flat backs and flat bevels.

Nice Pfeil. I've been tempted a couple of times for one like that.



Bob
 
Mine is probably an economy model. It is very plane Jane. Seems to be pretty much dead straight. With the handles in a straight position which works fine bevel up or down.

38795845891_77299aa6d1.jpg

The hollow grind is rough machined on the flat side.
 
I have a number of antique draws. I also have both the Pfiel straight & slanted gripped drawn knives. They are great for handle work. Very small and very sharp, they hold that edge like crazy!! But I still have never seen any like the ones I posted first. I was convened they were fleshing knives then I decided that they were not so now I’m just going to call them draw kinives!
 
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