Interesting Draw Knife? Questions...

rjdankirt, It seems that the Greenlee I posted was also hollow ground on the bevel side at one time also. I think it was a factory grind but am open to being wrong about that.

Brian, I wonder if those knifes could be scrappers? I have never seen a scraper like that but they come in every other configuration imaginable. Sharpened like a hafted scraper with a bevel would allow the blade to be held in a more upright position. I have an old primitive one someplace around here that is nothing more than a small branch with a slot cut in it to accommodate the blade.
 
rjdankirt, It seems that the Greenlee I posted was also hollow ground on the bevel side at one time also. I think it was a factory grind but am open to being wrong about that.
IDK, I only have a 1941 Greenlee catalog for reference. Here is a model that looks to me to have similarities to yours:



The handles are wrong for yours and they don't list a 10", but it is the closest I have.


Bob

FWIW, this one on ebay looks like the model 625:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Giant-14-G...have-Draw-Knife-Vintage-Antique-/172750388081
 
lie nielsen still makes curved draw knives, based on an old witherby pattern, though not as sharply curved as the OP's they're commonly used for de-barking. The curve gives a bit more bite in my limited experience.
 
Some more on the Mora 220. I don't remember seeing one before.



About Wood Splitting Knife 220
You can use the kindling knife to make smaller pieces of wood so that you can get your fire going more easily. It has a carbon steel blade and a double handle made of birch wood, making it effective and simple to work with.​

Mora doesn't say anything about using it for carving or as a push/draw knife. The cutting edge is double bevel. Knife length is 366mm (14.409 448 819 inch). Blade length is 114mm (4.488 188 976 4 inch).


From Garrett Wade:





Bob
I've got the classic version of this knife. It's the same blade but with red barrel shaped handles. It's a bit of a different beast compared to a normal draw knife because of the double bevel and the handle arrangement. I find it makes a great wasting knife but is a little too aggressive for fine work. Push or pull works equally well although I find you want to watch where your knuckles are going hit with the push stroke since they will connect with the stump before the blade does.

I don't think batoning it would be a good idea since it has rat-tail tangs, so any kindling you are splitting would have to be pretty small but I bet it would make great feather sticks.
 
lie nielsen still makes curved draw knives, based on an old witherby pattern, though not as sharply curved as the OP's they're commonly used for de-barking. The curve gives a bit more bite in my limited experience.
I googled them. They look nice. A little sticker shock though.
I do wonder how they stack up to a vintage knife though..
 
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