Interesting take on the sticky lock of the 0560...

[Ore_Ele]

Maybe it is not so much that they could not not put it together, that they could not get it back together in a good working order. I know I took apart my 1620 and hard a time getting it all back together with the blade perfectly centered and the pivot bolt just right so that the torsion bar works but there is no blade play.

Anyway, just trying to give the benefit of the doubt.

 

[Scurvy092]

The rubbing could be a cause if you're pushing the lockbar down into the other side of the thin cutout. I would think a small adjustment in how you're pushing when unlocking would test it to confirm.

I've been fiddling with it since Saturday and it has gotten much smoother. Initially I thought you might be right but after looking at it closer and with the use of a very scientific feeler gauge (a piece of paper) there is something I want to show you. The gap from the lockbar to the frame actually closes when the knife is open. Enough that the feeler gauge can slide through the slot nice and easy when closed, but cannot go through when opened.

I actually think it might be related to the detent (I don't think the dentent ball and the hole on the frame were mated correctly) being weak. When the knife is closed and I press on the lock bar slightly, the gap opens up and I can actually feel the detent ball click into the hole on the knife.

Sorry for the crappy cell pics. I can try to take better ones with a proper camera if you would like, this was just faster.

Feeler gauge at the back of the cutout, knife closed. Goes in very easily:

Feeler gauge at the front of the cutout, knife closed. Goes in very easily:

Feeler at the back, knife open. Goes in easily:

Feeler at the front, knife open. It takes a bit more force to slide it in near the over travel stop and I cannot move it any further forward:

Here is the gap when open:

[

Gap when Closed:

Me pushing the lockbar/detent into the hole:

And here is a picture of the wear, including what might be a burr?

 

[CrimsonTideShooter]

Maybe it is not so much that they could not not put it together, that they could not get it back together in a good working order. I know I took apart my 1620 and hard a time getting it all back together with the blade perfectly centered and the pivot bolt just right so that the torsion bar works but there is no blade play.

Anyway, just trying to give the benefit of the doubt.

Maybe so. But, the part where he said that they sent in a box of parts implies that they couldn't figure out how to get it back together.

Your way is perfectly plausible, but my way is MUCH funnier.

 

[Joshua J.]

I've been following most of the sticky lock/strong detent threads on the 0560 and none of it concerned me...

While I personally haven't seen very many sticky lock threads, I am very releived to hear that they are there. As far as I can tell a sticky lock should be more reliable, so that's the way I like them.

 

[Scurvy092]

While I personally haven't seen very many sticky lock threads, I am very releived to hear that they are there. As far as I can tell a sticky lock should be more reliable, so that's the way I like them.

Like I said, I wasn't concerned about sticking between the lock and the tang. That is not the issue I had though.

 

[CrimsonTideShooter]

While I personally haven't seen very many sticky lock threads, I am very releived to hear that they are there. As far as I can tell a sticky lock should be more reliable, so that's the way I like them.

On the flip side of that, a sticky lock wears MUCH faster than a non sticky one due to galling. That wear will in turn cause the lock to develop play much more quickly.

 

[Joshua J.]

On the flip side of that, a sticky lock wears MUCH faster than a non sticky one due to galling. That wear will in turn cause the lock to develop play much more quickly.

Will it? I presume the usual answer to the "sticky lock" problem is to increase the angle of the grind on the tang, making for a less secure lock. I've never actually had a lock move over very far, and as long as lockup doesn't start off going more than halfway across the tang I don't see it being a long term issue.

 

[Scurvy092]

TTT for some help from Thomas.

 

[Scurvy092]

I took her apart today to clean, lube and inspect her:

The wear on the frame:

I know that the titanium isn't cast but this looks like a casting mark on the face of the lock bar:

I love the knife, I just want to know if it needs to go back or not.

 

[coldsilence55]

I wish mine had a bit of this sticking problem. It was way to easy to disengage the lock bar and close the blade. I took the knife apart and bent the lock bar just a bit more in so there is a little bit more force being put on the blade itself. Just perfect now. Not sure who the hell couldn't put this thing back together.... Its only a few torx screws...

 

[Rapt_up]

My thoughts are it looks like a "shear" mark on the end of the lock bar (or wear from mating with the blade). And the off kilter travel I would suggest is due to the bend (or the thinned pocket) being just slightly off "square" from the cut line creating the lock bar portion from the frame.

Up to you if you want to get it to Kershaw. Personally if it was my product I'd want to have it to look at and figure out what happened so I could avoid it in the future.

 

[Scurvy092]

My thoughts are it looks like a "shear" mark on the end of the lock bar (or wear from mating with the blade). And the off kilter travel I would suggest is due to the bend (or the thinned pocket) being just slightly off "square" from the cut line creating the lock bar portion from the frame.

Up to you if you want to get it to Kershaw. Personally if it was my product I'd want to have it to look at and figure out what happened so I could avoid it in the future.

I didn't consider it being a shear mark. That makes a lot more sense. It is definitely NOT from the lockbar mating with the tang. At lockup the mark is nowhere near the mark. In the middle picture, you can see the shiny mark where it had been locking up.

 

[Rapt_up]

Yep you're right, shiny is only halfway to the "shear" or whatever it is, line.

I do design support for manufacturing and quality, so this sort of thing is part of my daily, job. Too bad its not on something as cool as knives.

 

[PURPLEDC]

I would be willing to bet said people who couldnt reassemble the knife were having issues getting the liner onto the rest of the frame. Because your dealing with such precise parts if your pivot is slightly off or your standoffs arent exactly where they need to be the parts dont go together very easy. The best trick ive found for this is when reassembling assemble the frame half first but leave the screws on the standoffs somewhat loose. This way when trying to lay the liner and g10 scale on the opposite side you have wiggle room to get the pieces to assemble. Then after all is put together then do a final torquing. Its not rocket science but if you have little experience with stripping and assembling knives it could be about as tricky as zipping your pants in the dark.