Introducing The 535 Bugout

So basically Benchmade/S30V was at one time on the forefront of knife technology. It seems as though they’ve just been slow to adopt newer steels into their offerings, or when they do offer them their pricing is a bit out of line with competitors offering the same steels?

I’ll admit I’m a Benchmade fan; my first “good” knife was a BM and they remain my favorite knife company. I’ve got CRKs and Hinderers also and while they are nice, I still go to my BMs. Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions
 
So basically Benchmade/S30V was at one time on the forefront of knife technology. It seems as though they’ve just been slow to adopt newer steels into their offerings, or when they do offer them their pricing is a bit out of line with competitors offering the same steels?

I’ll admit I’m a Benchmade fan; my first “good” knife was a BM and they remain my favorite knife company. I’ve got CRKs and Hinderers also and while they are nice, I still go to my BMs. Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions

My first good knife was a Benchmade 350 back in the mid 90's and I live 50 minutes from the factory, so I definitely have brand loyalty as well.

The guesses as to why S30V is so prevalent in the lineup range from "we got a good deal on S30V, so we bought enough to last 20 years" to the more tin-foil-hat theory of "the company might be up for sale, so increase profit margins as much as possible." It's anyone's guess at this point :)
 
Finally found a great deal on the Green Bugout.
Question is now. Will it kick out my Delica as pocket king?
I bought my first Spyderco knives relatively recently, which included a Delica. Overall, I really like the Delica but I do have mixed feelings. The blade came impeccably sharp and almost flawless out-of-the-box and I have learned to appreciate what I previously thought was and ugly blade shape. But the sharp Spyderhole with rough machining marks, cheap-feeling FRN scales, back lock and awkward one-handed opening/closing, the non-deep carry clip, etc. are some drawbacks. It's a great slicer and workhorse though. I can't compare VG-10 vs. S30V as I haven't even used the Delica enough to warrant sharpening.

The Bugout is the clear winner to me. The fit and finish is better, I prefer the Grivory to FRN, Axis lock is far superior to the lock back, the deep carry clip is much better than the Delica clip (which is a big downside to me), and it just feels better in my hand (although I like the jimping on the Delica blade). It's a much nicer looking knife too: I find the Delica is too utilitarian-looking with the aggressive grip and big screws everywhere. I'm not usually a fan of anodized accents (e.g. it kills the Sebenza for me), but I like the anodized thumbstuds on the Bugout, which are a nice color that doesn't match but rather compliments the blue scales.

It's a nice backpacking knife but I've started carrying it in my pocket sometimes. The slim profile and light weight makes for a nice EDC knife and like the Delica this one is a slicer.
 
I also went back and forth between the Delica and Bugout. The bugout won out as well, blade to weight ratio is outstanding, and the deep carry is much better on the bugout. While I do like the blue, and the green for that matter, I much prefer them blacked out. :) Stripped the thumb stud but left the standoffs blue. Provides a nice splash of color, and tributes the blue line.

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TXPO
 
That looks great, could you run through how you dyed the Grivory scales?

Pretty simple process ,here is what you will need.

Small pan 6 inch diameter or smaller, just big enough for the scales to fit in without touching the side. Smaller pans require less liquid.
Bottle of vinegar, regular white vinegar from any grocery store is fine.
Rit Dye, I prefer the liquid. You can get it at just about any grocery store as well.
Table salt
pair of tongs
knife scales
Some type of rubber or latex gloves, examination gloves work very well.
Thermometer is optional


First and foremost, remove the scales from the knife and clean them extremely well. A good polymer safe aerosol gun cleaner or alcohol works. I use both. Use the gloves while cleaning the scales, and change to a new set once the scales are clean. DO NOT TOUCH THE SCALES WITH YOUR BARE HANDS ONCE CLEANED.

In the Small pan, preferably one you wife doesn't need anymore add the vinegar, enough to cover the scales about 2 inches, and bring to a slight boil. You don't want a rolling boil, just until a few bubbles start. If you use a thermometer, it will be around 200 degrees.

Add the rit dye, I eyeball this but I would guess about a quarter cup, give or take. I probably use more than that it takes, but it gives it a deep black color. Add about a teaspoon of salt. I don't know if the salt is required, but I have never dyed anything without using it. It was recommended to me years ago saying it helps the dye absorb into the material. No idea if it is true, but never hurts.

Stir the dye and salt up a bit. just to make sure everything is dissolved and evenly mixed.

Next drop the scales in, carefully, if this stuff splashes on you, it aint' coming out.

Once you drop the scales in turn off the heat. Let the scales sit for a few minutes, then with your tongs, moves them around. You don't have to stir them, just move them around and turn them over and again let them sit for a few minutes. Repeat the process a couple of times.

After about 15 or 20 minutes, take the pan over to your sink and start running cold water into the pan. Let it run over until it is cool enough for you to take the scales out.

Rinse the scales off in water and clean up you pan.

Tada, you know have a set of Black Bugout Scales.

This works on the Green scales as well.

The dye is deep into the polymer and won't wear off. You have to cut or dig into the scale pretty deep to show the original color.

This method also works on Glocks polymer as I have a Black 19X that was done this way. After 6 months of carrying on and off duty, the original color isn't showing through anywhere.



TXPO
 
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Awesome reply, thanks a million. Searched for this and came up empty. Someone may be getting a new pan for Christmas!!
 
Pretty simple process ,here is what you will need.

Small pan 6 inch diameter or smaller, just big enough for the scales to fit in without touching the side. Smaller pans require less liquid.
Bottle of vinegar, regular white vinegar from any grocery store is fine.
Rit Dye, I prefer the liquid. You can get it at just about any grocery store as well.
Table salt
pair of tongs
knife scales
Some type of rubber or latex gloves, examination gloves work very well.
Thermometer is optional


First and foremost, remove the scales from the knife and clean them extremely well. A good polymer safe aerosol gun cleaner or alcohol works. I use both. Use the gloves while cleaning the scales, and change to a new set once the scales are clean. DO NOT TOUCH THE SCALES WITH YOUR BARE HANDS ONCE CLEANED.

In the Small pan, preferably one you wife doesn't need anymore add the vinegar, enough to cover the scales about 2 inches, and bring to a slight boil. You don't want a rolling boil, just until a few bubbles start. If you use a thermometer, it will be around 200 degrees.

Add the rit dye, I eyeball this but I would guess about a quarter cup, give or take. I probably use more than that it takes, but it gives it a deep black color. Add about a teaspoon of salt. I don't know if the salt is required, but I have never dyed anything without using it. It was recommended to me years ago saying it helps the dye absorb into the material. No idea if it is true, but never hurts.

Stir the dye and salt up a bit. just to make sure everything is dissolved and evenly mixed.

Next drop the scales in, carefully, if this stuff splashes on you, it aint' coming out.

Once you drop the scales in turn off the heat. Let the scales sit for a few minutes, then with your tongs, moves them around. You don't have to stir them, just move them around and turn them over and again let them sit for a few minutes. Repeat the process a couple of times.

After about 15 or 20 minutes, take the pan over to your sink and start running cold water into the pan. Let it run over until it is cool enough for you to take the scales out.

Rinse the scales off in water and clean up you pan.

Tada, you know have a set of Black Bugout Scales.

This works on the Green scales as well.

The dye is deep into the polymer and won't wear off. You have to cut or dig into the scale pretty deep to show the original color.

This method also works on Glocks polymer as I have a Black 19X that was done this way. After 6 months of carrying on and off duty, the original color isn't showing through anywhere.



TXPO
Awesome post. Thanks!
 
Pretty simple process ,here is what you will need.

Small pan 6 inch diameter or smaller, just big enough for the scales to fit in without touching the side. Smaller pans require less liquid.
Bottle of vinegar, regular white vinegar from any grocery store is fine.
Rit Dye, I prefer the liquid. You can get it at just about any grocery store as well.
Table salt
pair of tongs
knife scales
Some type of rubber or latex gloves, examination gloves work very well.
Thermometer is optional


First and foremost, remove the scales from the knife and clean them extremely well. A good polymer safe aerosol gun cleaner or alcohol works. I use both. Use the gloves while cleaning the scales, and change to a new set once the scales are clean. DO NOT TOUCH THE SCALES WITH YOUR BARE HANDS ONCE CLEANED.

In the Small pan, preferably one you wife doesn't need anymore add the vinegar, enough to cover the scales about 2 inches, and bring to a slight boil. You don't want a rolling boil, just until a few bubbles start. If you use a thermometer, it will be around 200 degrees.

Add the rit dye, I eyeball this but I would guess about a quarter cup, give or take. I probably use more than that it takes, but it gives it a deep black color. Add about a teaspoon of salt. I don't know if the salt is required, but I have never dyed anything without using it. It was recommended to me years ago saying it helps the dye absorb into the material. No idea if it is true, but never hurts.

Stir the dye and salt up a bit. just to make sure everything is dissolved and evenly mixed.

Next drop the scales in, carefully, if this stuff splashes on you, it aint' coming out.

Once you drop the scales in turn off the heat. Let the scales sit for a few minutes, then with your tongs, moves them around. You don't have to stir them, just move them around and turn them over and again let them sit for a few minutes. Repeat the process a couple of times.

After about 15 or 20 minutes, take the pan over to your sink and start running cold water into the pan. Let it run over until it is cool enough for you to take the scales out.

Rinse the scales off in water and clean up you pan.

Tada, you know have a set of Black Bugout Scales.

This works on the Green scales as well.

The dye is deep into the polymer and won't wear off. You have to cut or dig into the scale pretty deep to show the original color.

This method also works on Glocks polymer as I have a Black 19X that was done this way. After 6 months of carrying on and off duty, the original color isn't showing through anywhere.



TXPO
Why do you prefer the liquid over the powder? Does it seem to work better? Thanks
 
I 've had my blue Bugout for a few days now but think I messed it up. This is the nicest knife I've ever owned plus never had an axis lock before. Out of the box to my eyes it was centered and no blade play! I was so impressed how smooth it closed that is until I decided to put a couple of drops of KPL from the top and bottom of knife aiming for the washers.

Now it grinds (about halfway) when I close it no matter how much I've opened and closed it. I only lubricated it because I though it should/would free fall a little but just made things worse. In hindsight I should have left it alone and enjoyed... just didn't know lubricating could have ill affects. Can't understand how/why the washers can grind after lubricating them.

I don't feel comfortable taking it apart... would there be anyone here willing to clean it up and get it back to normal for me? I just bought it from BladeHQ but kind of hate to send it back they can probably tell I lubricated it... KPL has a strong smell. What should I do?
 
Now it grinds (about halfway) when I close it no matter how much I've opened and closed it. I only lubricated it because I though it should/would free fall a little but just made things worse. In hindsight I should have left it alone and enjoyed... just didn't know lubricating could have ill affects. Can't understand how/why the washers can grind after lubricating them.
I don't feel comfortable taking it apart... would there be anyone here willing to clean it up and get it back to normal for me? I just bought it from BladeHQ but kind of hate to send it back they can probably tell I lubricated it... KPL has a strong smell. What should I do?

I had a similar issue I just sent my Bugout in for that seemed more related to the axis pin grinding against the tang of the blade somehow.
I read a post here in another thread about someone else having the issue, too.
If you hold the axis lock back does the blade swing freely with no grinding issues?
If there is no grinding when the axis lock is held open and the blade is swinging then its not in the washers.
 
I had a similar issue I just sent my Bugout in for that seemed more related to the axis pin grinding against the tang of the blade somehow.
I read a post here in another thread about someone else having the issue, too.
If you hold the axis lock back does the blade swing freely with no grinding issues?
If there is no grinding when the axis lock is held open and the blade is swinging then its not in the washers.

Well now that's interesting when I hold the axis lock back there's no grinding it swings freely. How is it possible it didn't grind then before I applied the lubricant?

Do you think it's possible BladeHQ would handle the situation without it going back to Benchmade?
 
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Well now that's interesting when I hold the axis lock back there's no grinding it swings freely. How is it possible it didn't grind then before I applied the lubricant?

Do you think it's possible BladeHQ would handle the situation without it going back to Benchmade?

Call BHQ and ask them. Tell them it was perfect out of the box, you added whatever lubricant you added, and now it is making a noise when closing. See what they will do?
 
Well now that's interesting when I hold the axis lock back there's no grinding it swings freely. How is it possible it didn't grind then before I applied the lubricant?
Do you think it's possible BladeHQ would handle the situation without it going back to Benchmade?

Doubtful that they could do anything without it going back.
See this POST which described what I was experiencing, too, so I sent mine back last week.
It seems to possibly be a burr issue on the tang or Axis lock pin, maybe... but it sounds like we all have the same issue.

It doesn't have anything to do with the lubricant, though, and the cause was never in the area of the washers.
Of that I'm certain, since I was in the same boat and tried, unsuccessfully, to use lubricant to fix it. When I then dried everything off in the area of the axis lock, you could audibly hear the grinding/vibrating, so thats where the problem is.

Unfortunately, you'll likely have to send it back. I hate it doing that, too.

Strange that this problem seems to be juts with the Bugouts.... like, if its an axis lock issue, then why wouldn't it come up in all models?
 
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Coyja I read your other post thanks! Mine sounds and acts the same with the same result. Where mine does differ is it was silky smooth out of the box so no grinding until I applied lubricant and then night & day different. Very possible it was leading toward grinding before the lubricant guess I’ll never know now. Hopefully if a defect it doesn’t affect that many.

BladeHQ is replacing it since it’s only a few days old and hasn’t even left the house.
 
I could see a gold class CF and 20CV...prob about $700!
Just noticed I was 2/3 right (more or less)!

Not going to buy one (bc it’s insanely expensive) but interested to see the ghost CF in person. How many gold class units do they usually produce?
 
Just noticed I was 2/3 right (more or less)!

Not going to buy one (bc it’s insanely expensive) but interested to see the ghost CF in person. How many gold class units do they usually produce?

The 1 year ltd golds usually move about 1500-2500 pcs in the year.
 
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