Iraq Knife, finished pics!

Matt Shade

Matt Shade

Joined
Nov 24, 1999
Messages
4,981
Hey Guys
First off thanks for all the advice on the sheath. I think I came up with something usable although it might double as a boat paddle (I always say I hate kydex but when I finally learn leather I'm going to hate them both ;) )

So here is the knife I'm donating to our troops.
Its made of 1/4" O1, with black linen micarta scales, brass pins and thong hole.Blade is 6" long. Overall length is 11".

Here it was before being browned:
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Here is now:
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I used some browing solution I had left over from a muzzle loader and a few pairs of spurs. Took about 2 days and 5 coats before fitting the handle. This was difficult, I had to boil the blade to get the darker color which meant doing the handle section without the scales attached. I had to have the scales 99% finished so that I didn't have to do any grinding after attaching them. Once I had them epoxied and pinned on, I masked off the blade and tang edges and ground the pins smooth and completed finishing the scales. Then I had a little touch up work to do on the blade finish. I re-cleaned it with acetone and did a few more rounds with the browning solution. I'm pretty happy with how it came out. Browning hardened steel is a whole new ball game over gun barrels and spurs.

Here is the sheath:
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The belt loop can be removed and put back on horizontally. Also has the slots for a web strap and lots of rivets to run cord through. Its far from the greatest, and I was hoping to give them more options. Things weren't going too well though.I decided I'd better stick with function instead of going for multifunction and getting disfunction ;)

Still needs sharpened and I'm hoping to find a drawstring clamp to put on the sheath so they don't have to tie knots. The paracoard criss crossing the knife locks the sheath down as tight as you want depending on how tight you pull them, figured that way they could lock her in tight if they're jumping in from somewhere and could leave it loose for normal use. The sheath locks it up pretty well alone, you can hold it upside down and shake it fairly good, but it draws easily.

This was a lot fun. I have to get some paying knives down now, but I wouldn't rule out doing another. It was my first time doing a blade over 5", and first time using 1/4" stock, and first time browning it. I'm hoping to do them all again :D

So what do you guys think?
 

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Thanks Mark :)

Jonval, Thanks..... if your posting from Iraq we might talk ;)


Thanks alot Roger
The browning solution I used is called "Dangler's Browning Solution" and seems to be a home brew. I got it from The Log Cabin shop when I bought a kit for a muzzle loader. It works very well, and I'm planning on getting more as this bottle is all but gone. They have a web site and do mail order stuff ( www.logcabinshop.com ) I really hope this mix is still available.
I have the name and address of the guy who makes it as well, its on the bottle. I'd prefer not to post that here in respect for his privacy, but if you want some of this stuff and can't find any email me and I'll give you his address.
Its pretty simple to use, but time consuming. First you have to clean any oxidation off the metal (light sanding is fine, nothing extreme) then de-grease it with acetone or something. Paint on a light coat of the solution and let it sit in a warm humid place. It will turn the metal green in short order. Wait 12 hours (12 is for a gun barrel, on a knife blade I did more like 3-4 hours because it rusts much faster but not as deeply) and paint another coat on being careful not to rub off the green buildup from the first coat. 12 hours later, take a brass brush and go over the peice removing all the loose rust. Repeat as necessary, you should start to get a nice skin over the steel. When you've got it where you want, dip the peice in boiling water. This will darken it alot, and neutralize the acid. From there, I apply a coat of oil and use the brass brush on it one more time. After that its good to go. Its a pretty tough finish, and takes oil very well to help prevent further rusting.
 
Wow, superknife! The blade is great, functional, the sheath looks great for its uses, and the little bit of file work on top is gonna be a good show that it was hand made. The person out there is gonna be lucky.
 
Can i give a suggestion? Matt u might hate Kydex, but on a combat knife leather is a waste of time, it might get into some SEAL or D-boys hands or Airborne and these guys can not have the luxury to take care of their sheath. If the sheath goes wet it either shrinks ! and clamps the knife :mad: or it will become too loose, it will rot away in a few days in swampy enviroments, crack when frozen in mountain terrain , mildew, etc. Combat knives need as much inert stuff around as possible. Nothing that can swell, shrink, discolour, smell or make noise. with lots of tie down holes in them. If i can make a suggestion try to make it "jumpable" , with an extra safety device for HAHO/HALO or underwater use.

just my 2 cents but this beautifull knife needs a sheath with the same professionalism in it as u did with the knife.

GREAT WORK!
 
Way to go Matt. I would have been happy to carry that and jump with it. Beautiful work. I like the sheath too. Looks very proffessional. As always, love the file work too. Nice job all the way around.
Ed
 
Thanks alot everybody, really appreciate it :D
Glad to hear it gets approval from those who have been there and done that. Thanks to you for your service as well.


Loki
This sheath is kydex, .090" and reinforced where the belt loop attaches. I don't know what else I could do to lock the knife in. By itself, you can hold it upside down and shake it. With the drawstring pulled down tight, you can't pull the knife out, not without breaking something. When its pulled tight the paracord crosses overtop both gaurds and squeezes the mouth of the sheath closed (which is molded to grip the knife). This is the most secure set up I could think of, since I don't have the tools to put snaps or webstraps or anything on it. Its not the cleanest work, and doesn't give many carry options but I'm not worried about the knife coming out of it. What else would you do to it?
 
matt, im was wondering if you live close to the log cabin shop? im about an hour away from there. i go there for my fur, flint, and antler.
by the way thats a great knife, any sf would be proud to carry it! :) how did you get the scales darker?
 
elvenbladesmith07
I'm actually pretty far away from the log cabin shop, a little over 3 hours if I remember right. Its owned by family though so I get stuff from them when I can. Its the only place I know of to get a lot of stuff, like the Dangler's browning solution. There aren't any other shops like that around (any closer anyhow, a lot of stuff in Indiana) to my knowledge. And big commercial chains don't even come close with their cold blue and inlines, don't even sell real blackpowder :grumpy:
The scales just get darker from being handled. I sanded then a little bit finer from the first pic before they were fit, and then they soaked up a little oil from my hands while I was working on the rest of the knife. If you scrubbed it with soap and water they would lighten up again.
 
nice job Matt
I agree with this
Nothing that can swell, shrink, discolor, smell or make noise

though these are going to Afghanistan leather should be ok.

and then again they will be theirs to use elsewhere also.
 
I can see where kydex would be more pratical, but think of the knives carried before kydex ever existed. Look at all the Randall knives that made it back from Vietnam and talk about a wet enviroment :eek: I was thinking about dipping the leather sheath in wax. Any suggestions on what product to use or is it really worth doing?
Scott
Very nicely done Matt ;) That one will serve someone very well.
 
Speaking of Randalls. How do you think that the 0-1 held up in Vietnam?
 
Razorback - Knives said:
I can see where kydex would be more pratical, but think of the knives carried before kydex ever existed. Look at all the Randall knives that made it back from Vietnam and talk about a wet enviroment :eek: I was thinking about dipping the leather sheath in wax. Any suggestions on what product to use or is it really worth doing?
Scott
Very nicely done Matt ;) That one will serve someone very well.
Click to expand...

look here
http://www.knivesby.com/mike-hull.html
Mike may ring in here about it?
 
Thanks guys :)


As far as leather sheaths, I think they would be just fine, they may just need a little more care to keep them from getting too dry or too wet, I just did kydex because thats what I do (grudgingly sometimes ;) ). On a trip to texas I went to a couple saddle making places and they had some special oil they were treating the leather with. It must have some kind of wax in it because the finished product has a glossy buildup that withstands water and stuff really well. I'll have to look around and see if I can get more info on that. A leather sheath tanned out the same way a saddle is would last a long time.
 
Looks great Matt, good design on the sheath too.

Leather will work well, as long as it's oiled or waxed. Leather sheaths have gone into battle long before people knew what plastic was.
 
Cool!! Nice Job, I'm sure whoever recieves it will enjoy it. Looks like a useful knife.

Regards,

Nick
 
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