Ironwood Gift Knife 2 of 3

Joined
Oct 30, 2002
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3,974
Here's number 2 of 3 for an order. I posted the first on THIS thread a while back.

Specs: 5/32" CPM154, LN cryo'd, 3.5" blade, 7.5" OAL, Arizona Desert Ironwood burl, black spacers, hand stitched custom leather sheath. This knife is much slimmer than the first as the first was a customer request for a thicker handle.

Thanks for looking!

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This ironwood is pretty ridiculous. It looks great in the sun light.

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Thanks for looking. As always, comments and critiques of all kinds welcomed!

--nathan
 
That is a great looking knife, I really like the way the last two pics show off the contrast in the ironwood.
 
you do have my address to send my gift, don't you.
nice work,
vern
 
That should make someone very happy! Very well balanced knife from pin placement to wood choice to overall shape. The sheath is cool as well. Did you do that also?
 
This knife is beautiful! I have a question for you though. I'm trying to figure out the final hand sanding and I'm wondering what your process/tools are? I love the way the "scratches" really add to the knife instead of detracting from it. Beautiful!
 
Mark, yes the sheath is my design and build. I don't make the sheath until the knife is finished so that each sheath is cut using the actual knife as a template for cutting the shape. They're hand stitched and wet fit snug to the knife. It holds securely and won't fall out. I really have to give Chuck Burrows all the props for bringing a lot of processes together for me with his sheath video. I was making this design before I watched the video, but I was just shooting in the dark on the whole process. The Wild Rose video pointed out all the things I was doing right, wrong, and in the wrong order.

Thanks for the comments everyone. I try to give all my knives the same balance, pleasing shape, quality materials, and finish. I'm glad you like it. I hope the owner will be pleased.

syvmn, my hand finish starts with a 400 grit even machine finish. From there, I use a piece of angle iron that has been ground true flat. I cut squares of sand paper, wrap them on the angle iron, and secure them with a spring clip on top, and I use honing oil to keep the grit in play longer. Use paper like it's free. When the grit is used up, reposition the paper and go again. I use this little jig to hold the blade for me and support the blade through its taper.

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After things are cleaned up really well with the angle iron at 320 grit (scrubbing back and forth the length of the blade), I switch to a piece of angle iron cushioned with leather and do the same motion. This softens things up a bit. Once ALL grinding marks are gone, I switch to 400 grit paper staying with the leather backed stick. I scrub back and forth the length of the blade first until things really start to even out. Sit directly in line with your blade so your scratches are straight. Once things even out, I switch from scrubbing motions to sanding in one direction only. I do this from plunge to tip first to even things out, then from ricasso to tip. I use both the flat of the sanding stick and the edge, working until everything gets even. All of this has to be done prior to putting the handles on. I work one side until it's completely done, then tape it up with painter's tape for protection until I'm ready to put handles on. That way I can flip the knife over without worrying about marring my finish. Get your ricasso established and your blade completely sanded prior to moving on. If you think you've sanded enough, you probably haven't :). It took a long time for me to really have the patience to do it right without rushing a step. This particular finish is a working 400 grit finish as per request. Other knives I'll take up to 600-800. For working or faster finishes, sometimes I'll keep all the grits going in the same direction. For a smoother finish, alternate the sanding directions each of grit by sanding at a slight angle to the blade and sand until all prior scratches are removed. Then it's a good idea to sand to one higher grit than your desired finish. Once that's done, go back to your finishing grit and sand in one direction to get your final finish. I keep a halogen light pointed directly on the work piece, and a use a florescent bulb and sunlight as further tools to assist in seeing scratches that don't belong.

--nathan
 
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nathan - that looks great, just amazing. one question for you. where do you get the steel spring clips that is on the back of the sheath. i have been looking for them and have had to use the ones off the back of tape measures before ;). thanks man
 
JT, my local Tandy stocks them, though their not a Tandy line. The owner orders them and uses them for some projects he does.

--nathan
 
Nathan that is absolutely exceptional! Not just the beautiful ironwood and finish, but your leatherwork is clean as a whistle too. Fantastic. One of these days I'll approach you to see if perhaps we can work out a trade; I always dig your knives. Meanwhile, thanks for the inspiration and early-morning happiness! :)
 
yes the ironwood is amazing. it is always nice when you get a piece like that. Very nice knife and made a beautiful package. Mike
 
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::D:thumbup::thumbup:

I like ironwood a lot. You did it up right!
 
That is beautiful ironwood handles and it sets off the knife very well. The total package is outstanding. And your sheath work is super done. That is a great looking design. I also, like the dark photo work in the shop. It makes the viewers eyes focus on the project. Nice hand rub finish. -----------:thumbup: with a A+

Terry
 
Nice package. Sure your client will be happy.
 
outstanding job, sir, lots of attention to detail, and i love desert ironwood for scales, just ordered a randall #4 with desert ironwood scales.

thanks for allowing us to see it.
 
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