Mark, yes the sheath is my design and build. I don't make the sheath until the knife is finished so that each sheath is cut using the actual knife as a template for cutting the shape. They're hand stitched and wet fit snug to the knife. It holds securely and won't fall out. I really have to give Chuck Burrows all the props for bringing a lot of processes together for me with his sheath video. I was making this design before I watched the video, but I was just shooting in the dark on the whole process. The Wild Rose video pointed out all the things I was doing right, wrong, and in the wrong order.
Thanks for the comments everyone. I try to give all my knives the same balance, pleasing shape, quality materials, and finish. I'm glad you like it. I hope the owner will be pleased.
syvmn, my hand finish starts with a 400 grit even machine finish. From there, I use a piece of angle iron that has been ground true flat. I cut squares of sand paper, wrap them on the angle iron, and secure them with a spring clip on top, and I use honing oil to keep the grit in play longer. Use paper like it's free. When the grit is used up, reposition the paper and go again. I use this little jig to hold the blade for me and support the blade through its taper.
After things are cleaned up really well with the angle iron at 320 grit (scrubbing back and forth the length of the blade), I switch to a piece of angle iron cushioned with leather and do the same motion. This softens things up a bit. Once
ALL grinding marks are gone, I switch to 400 grit paper staying with the leather backed stick. I scrub back and forth the length of the blade first until things really start to even out. Sit directly in line with your blade so your scratches are straight. Once things even out, I switch from scrubbing motions to sanding in one direction only. I do this from plunge to tip first to even things out, then from ricasso to tip. I use both the flat of the sanding stick and the edge, working until everything gets even. All of this has to be done prior to putting the handles on. I work one side until it's completely done, then tape it up with painter's tape for protection until I'm ready to put handles on. That way I can flip the knife over without worrying about marring my finish. Get your ricasso established and your blade completely sanded prior to moving on. If you think you've sanded enough, you probably haven't

. It took a long time for me to really have the patience to do it right without rushing a step. This particular finish is a working 400 grit finish as per request. Other knives I'll take up to 600-800. For working or faster finishes, sometimes I'll keep all the grits going in the same direction. For a smoother finish, alternate the sanding directions each of grit by sanding at a slight angle to the blade and sand until all prior scratches are removed. Then it's a good idea to sand to one higher grit than your desired finish. Once that's done, go back to your finishing grit and sand in one direction to get your final finish. I keep a halogen light pointed directly on the work piece, and a use a florescent bulb and sunlight as further tools to assist in seeing scratches that don't belong.
--nathan