ironwood question

[jdm61]

What is the best way to finish ironwood burl?

 

[NickWheeler]

Everybody's got a different method Joe, but I like to hand sand it to 1200X with a hard rubber block. This block has VERY little give. Once at 1200X, I buff really lightly with white rouge. If you have to push hard you didn't sand it well enough prior to buffing (pretty much the rule for most buffing operations in my shop .

 

[jdm61]

Everybody's got a different method Joe, but I like to hand sand it to 1200X with a hard rubber block. This block has VERY little give. Once at 1200X, I buff really lightly with white rouge. If you have to push hard you didn't sand it well enough prior to buffing (pretty much the rule for most buffing operations in my shop .

Thanks, Nick. What kind of sandpaper do you use? I can't seem to find anything other than the black automotive paper in anything finer than 400 without going to the little tiny sheets of the very expensive jewelers paper. The black stuff is gret for wet sanding, but it is black, so it leaves black residue.

 

[NickWheeler]

Normally I don't have that problem on Ironwood using Mirka abrasives (the bull-dog brand). It is an issue with stuff like maple though.

On the occasion that I have the problem you mentioned, I use Rhino paper from Super-Grit. I started using it on Burt Foster's recommendation to use it on a 9" disc sander. I save the cut-offs for handle work.

It is aluminum oxide (which is actually, most often, a BETTER abrasive than silicon carbide... it's just that most aluminum oxide paper can't get wet nor does it come in very fine grits) This Rhino stuff goes all the way to 2000 or 2500x. Great paper and cheap too.

It's a brick red color, and I've NEVER had it leave color on wood.

 

[jdm61]

Normally I don't have that problem on Ironwood using Mirka abrasives (the bull-dog brand). It is an issue with stuff like maple though.

On the occasion that I have the problem you mentioned, I use Rhino paper from Super-Grit. I started using it on Burt Foster's recommendation to use it on a 9" disc sander. I save the cut-offs for handle work.

It is aluminum oxide (which is actually, most often, a BETTER abrasive than silicon carbide... it's just that most aluminum oxide paper can't get wet nor does it come in very fine grits) This Rhino stuff goes all the way to 2000 or 2500x. Great paper and cheap too.

It's a brick red color, and I've NEVER had it leave color on wood.

I use the red 2 inch rolls from TruGrit for 120-400 and they don't really leave any color when you use them dry.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

For sanding to a polish get a set of the 3M polishing papers (actually almost a cloth). They are color coded, and a pack is from 400 to 8000 grit, in six steps. They are abrasive on one side only. I mark them with an X on the back, as that after use for a while it can be hard to tell on the finer grits. They are soft and don't scratch. Use then to hand sand going up from 400(green) to the last grit (white).I keep the worn out papers (they last a long time) for touch ups. They are superb for getting a mirror polish on steel,too. They do not stain any color of wood (unless you used them on metal first).
Once the handle is at the last grit, nothing but a buff with a soft cloth or a little wax is needed.
Stacy

 

[Steven Kelly]

I do pretty much the same as Nick. I normally hand sand to 800 grit then go to the buffer with pink no-scratch polish. Don't put much pressure.on the wood. The natural oils in the wood should make the shine pop right out. Make sure you don't get the wood hot while machine sanding it. Ironwood is notorious for having the figure wash out if you get it too warm..

 

[Fiddleback]

I sand it to 220 then switch to scotchbrite pads. I either finish it with oil or a very thin coat of polyurethane that I wipe completely off.

 

[firebert]

For sanding to a polish get a set of the 3M polishing papers (actually almost a cloth). They are color coded, and a pack is from 400 to 8000 grit, in six steps.
Stacy

I second the polishing paper. I use it for almost all of my finishing projects.

To add to what Stacy said, be aware of cross-contamination. I keep sandpaper for dark material (ebony, metal, etc) separate from that used on light material (holly, maple, pernambucco, etc).

Phillip