is 1/4 inch necessary?

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Feb 27, 2013
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I have an esee 5 and an esee 6, but am ashamed to say I have hardly used either as i live in the city an don't get out nearly as much as I want too. My question is simply, is 1/4 inch blade like the esee 5 really necessary? Or is 3/16 inch like the esee 6 ample thickness for a knife in regards to very hard use? Would an esee 6 really be that much more likely to fail under very hard use than an esee 5 would? I know obviously an esee 5 can take more because it is quite a bit thicker but do people really use their knives to such an extent that a 3/16 inch blade may break (excluding prying and just generally abusing the knife in ways it shouldn't be). what do ppl think?
 
I have an esee 5 and an esee 6, but am ashamed to say I have hardly used either as i live in the city an don't get out nearly as much as I want too. My question is simply, is 1/4 inch blade like the esee 5 really necessary? Or is 3/16 inch like the esee 6 ample thickness for a knife in regards to very hard use? Would an esee 6 really be that much more likely to fail under very hard use than an esee 5 would? I know obviously an esee 5 can take more because it is quite a bit thicker but do people really use their knives to such an extent that a 3/16 inch blade may break (excluding prying and just generally abusing the knife in ways it shouldn't be). what do ppl think?

It is not about breaking the knife; it is about having the right weight in the tool to do the job efficiently. If anything, we tend to break those big massively thick knives more often then we do our light weight knives, because these knives carry much more momentum. With most moving objects the force of impact is far more dependent on the velocity of the motion, but with knives there is a finite speed at which we can move our limbs so the key variable becomes the weight of the knife. The more weight, the greater the force on a finite steel edge and the bigger the chance of breaking something. However, a heavy knife also allows me to deliver the same force as a lighter knife while swinging at a slower rate, which is easier on me and allows me to get that much closer to the work (less need for that large swing to build momentum). The thicker knife is also stiffer and more resistant to warpage, for instance when batoning.

n2s
 
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The short answer: That depends on what you're going to be using the knife for.


If your primary use for the knife is bushcraft, hunting, skinning, food prep etc, then no a blade this thick isn't necessary. In fact, a thick blade is exactly what you don't want in this situation. However, if I'm going to be using the knife as a chopper or for batoning I do prefer a thicker knife like the BK2 (1/4 inch thick sharpened pry-bar). It has the weight and the heft that I'm looking for in this case.
 
NO! and YES!

YES+ Your going too use your knife as an axe then yes but get an axe! for a survival knife yes you might not have an axe

NO = in most cases thinner blades are sharper or stay sharper longer since the tapper is small or easier too sharpen and lighter. excess weight in pack, or your pocket or side.

part 2

alloy and heat treat is heat treated for hardness not flex?
is it a brittle alloy that you never need too sharpend? then fatter is better

there is a start, a good knife maker determines that. Is is forged? how thick was the blank? reduction of 16:1 min is standard for battle plate - i ever see an ingot they make tank plate from?......... do not ask but if do i write you a book!
 
Subject is very complex, alloy, heat treat, blank or powder, hand or machine, who made it? what is it for? above i just touched on the surface of this. A good knife maker makes his knife the right way = period!

china bunk? custom usa from master craftsman?

bunk go with thick!
custom go with thin!

good warranty and not using for chpping wood then go thin!

then is top thick or the middle, what is the edge tapper?
i could go on and on!
 
Keep in mind what the knife was designed for. The Esee 5 was designed for downed pilots, so that they could literally cut their way out of a wrecked aircraft. So that said, I doubt you'll often find yourself in a position where you'll need to hack your way out of an helicopter. At that point its all about personal preferences.
There's not much the 5 can't do, but there is almost always a better tool for the job. The 6 and its additional length will certainly aid in your attempt to chop wood and will hold up just fine in the process. Some folks just like the heft that comes with the 5. Preferences. :thumbup:
 
wow i can tell you are passionate about knives..i love it!:thumbup:
thanks for the input!
 
ya, i had too come back when i went too bed:

torsion stress - you have a knife any knife

the longer and wider the thicker the knife needs too be too hand torrsion stress even if you do not baton, the knife can twist in normal usage.

ideally, i like fighters with dual edge - half on top

the ridge is 2/3rd from the bottom the thickest part then tappers too the top and bottom why high up? because working and thinner bottom edge is subject to repeat stress and fatigue.

yes, i am knife junkie and really good engineer - honor degree from u of i in material engineering. this is my own theory. i am master cook, i carry knives for self defence i never do not have one clipped - and back ups. i was with my standard cub scout knife so progressed to folders lockblades and large sheath or fixed blade by 11 or 10?

again there are many factor metal fatigue is repeat stress which slowly seperates or strains (streches) the grain.

i was published and gave papers before thoasands before 25 but i am party dude! I should have been a prof, phd in a unversite in hindsite.

i could go on but torrsion fatigue is major issue with thickness! thx for the complement! much appreciated!
 
The short answer: That depends on what you're going to be using the knife for.


If your primary use for the knife is bushcraft, hunting, skinning, food prep etc, then no a blade this thick isn't necessary. In fact, a thick blade is exactly what you don't want in this situation. However, if I'm going to be using the knife as a chopper or for batoning I do prefer a thicker knife like the BK2 (1/4 inch thick sharpened pry-bar). It has the weight and the heft that I'm looking for in this case.

Although there are some amusing responses here, I don't know how the meat of the matter could have been better expressed than that. Just about says it all.

Robert
 
My only 1/4" thick knife is also an Esee 5.
Even thou I love my Esee 5 a lot, due to it's weight it only gets carried for short hikes.
For my longer trips I prefer a lighter knife (Esee 4 ;) )
The 5 is a beast though, can't imagine ever doin any damage to it.
I'd be curious to feel the weight and sturdines of an 1/4" ffg Esee 5. (not fond of the LS shape).
Or maybe a 5 with some of the tang material drilled out.
 
Short answer : No.

Thinner blades are faaaaaaaaaaar more useful than the thick one 99% of time.
 
Honestly, I think it's a "if 3/16 is good, then 1/4 is better" mentality.
To me, the primary purpose of a knife is to cut things, and the less steel that has to force it's way between material, the easier it's going to cut.
But I will admit, there's something primal and manly about having a quarter inch thick bar of steel in your hand, swinging it to destroy something.
 
Honestly, I think it's a "if 3/16 is good, then 1/4 is better" mentality.
To me, the primary purpose of a knife is to cut things, and the less steel that has to force it's way between material, the easier it's going to cut.
But I will admit, there's something primal and manly about having a quarter inch thick bar of steel in your hand, swinging it to destroy something.

This is kinda much the thing :) No sane person would make a 1/4" blade(Dont kill me 150IQ person that show up and prove me wrong!) on a knife thats made primary to cut things, you see it more on big choppers and some combat focused type of knives, thats generaly more aimed for chopping, sliceing or stabbing. It will add force to the swing, and add strength to the knife.

That 1/4" could be the only thing between you and death if SHTF...

And this, most "prybars with a edge" is made that way for a reason.

Not totaly ontopic but i have even seen a kitchenknife with a 1/4 spine.(a custom made meatcleaver that looked like something made to cut cows in half, but still!)
 
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Meh, let me know when we start talking 1/2" thickness. Then I'll be interested. 1/4"? My steak knives are 1/4"!

Not really, but yeah thinner is better for most everything that I do unless I am splitting wood.
 
The short answer: That depends on what you're going to be using the knife for.


If your primary use for the knife is bushcraft, hunting, skinning, food prep etc, then no a blade this thick isn't necessary. In fact, a thick blade is exactly what you don't want in this situation. However, if I'm going to be using the knife as a chopper or for batoning I do prefer a thicker knife like the BK2 (1/4 inch thick sharpened pry-bar). It has the weight and the heft that I'm looking for in this case.

Although there are some amusing responses here, I don't know how the meat of the matter could have been better expressed than that. Just about says it all.

The Esee 5 was designed for downed pilots, so that they could literally cut their way out of a wrecked aircraft. So that said, I doubt you'll often find yourself in a position where you'll need to hack your way out of an helicopter

that should about do it.
 
I have an esee 5 and an esee 6, but am ashamed to say I have hardly used either as i live in the city an don't get out nearly as much as I want too. My question is simply, is 1/4 inch blade like the esee 5 really necessary? Or is 3/16 inch like the esee 6 ample thickness for a knife in regards to very hard use? Would an esee 6 really be that much more likely to fail under very hard use than an esee 5 would? I know obviously an esee 5 can take more because it is quite a bit thicker but do people really use their knives to such an extent that a 3/16 inch blade may break (excluding prying and just generally abusing the knife in ways it shouldn't be). what do ppl think?


For me in a fixed blade, with a blade over 9", 1/4" is definite. ( I will be prying.) If the blade is under 9", 3/16" is possible. 5/16" Never.
 
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