Is 1075/1080 a good knife steel?

R

R.C.Reichert

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Jul 26, 2008
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I'm planning on heading out to Cremona real soon to pick up some more knife steel. What I am debating is whether I should get some 1075/1080 which is a steel I've never used before, or if I should just stick with the O1. Even though I don't have proper temperature controls, (backyard heat treat with a tiger torch:o) I have had good success with the O1. I am assuming that with the 1075/1080 I can still use the canola oil to quench with? Am I right that it does not require a special fast oil like 1095? One other question, would the 1075/1080 make for a good hunting knife? Much appreciate any advice you could offer.
 
Sorry, I just noticed Kevin Cashen's thread on working with the three steel types. He mentions that 1075 and 1080 are really good beginner steels and work well with a simple setup. What I am wondering though still is if it is okay to use canola oil or mineral oil for quenching this steel?
 
All 3 steels you mention (O1, 1080, 1095) are very similar performing steels, and are routinely used for making hunting knives. 120F canola oil works for 1080, I've also tried water. It only requires 6 seconds of soak at 1490F, so it's the easiest to heat treat with a torch.
 
All though 1075/1080 does benefit from a fast quench, it doesn't need as fast a quench
as 1095. Heated canola should be OK but I recommend Park's 50...

Edit to add; Back when I made many knives from saw blade steel (1075-1085 w/nickel)
I used olive oil for quench and it worked fine. The local folks around here really liked those knives.
 
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My guess is that you'll probably get a better performing blade with your heat treating methods using 1080 than O-1. As mentioned, 1080 doesn't need much time at temp, though I'd recommend more than 4 seconds just to make sure that everything is evenly and thoroughly heated. I'd suggest around 5 minutes at temp if possible, though when using a torch, a shorter period of time will be ok as long as you have the edge fully and evenly heated. O-1 really benefits from a longer soak up to 15-20 minutes. That being said, there is some trade off as O-1 quenches better in a medium speed oil like canola, and 1080 likes a faster oil. But as Don and cotdt mentioned, it will harden fairly well in canola if you heat the canola up to 120-140F. A brine will work better, but give you some increased risk of failure.

--nathan
 
I was just going over this quench/steel thing myself. Rob did say he is going to have some Parks 50 and AAA. He said that that AAA would work well with 01. I have also been useing 01 and canola with relativly (if that is the word) good results, but thinking of ordering some AAA from him.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=691394

Cheers Ron
 
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I really don't like switching steel types so much, but I might have to according to what they have in stock. If they don't have the 1075/1080 in the size that I need, I might have to go with the 01. However, it doesn't seem like they have the O1 in 1/4" stock either, so my next thing I suppose would be 1095. For that I don't have the right quench oil.:rolleyes: I wish to make some of the large Hudson Bay camp knives that were common in the 1700's. They were made out of 1/4" steel. I wonder which steel would have been closest to what they would have used back then? Do you think it possible there may have been some local blacksmiths back then reproducing these large camp knives with thinner stock, say like closer to a 3/16" thickness? I want to be as authentic as possible. 1/4" steel seems pretty darn thick, a lot to grind.
 
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I would be alright with getting the 1095 and using a brine, but how would I know there wouldn't be any micro cracks that form in the steel during the quench? Should I be worried about this? Last I checked they had a pretty good supply of 1095. I just want to use it right is all. How much different/faster is the brine compared to the Parks #50? Is it still possible to get micro cracks with the Parks #50?
 
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If you make it as far as airdrie, you can get Houghto Quench K from Can-Four Industries. I believe it was around $85.00 or $90.00

here's their contact info:

Can-Four Industrial Supplies Ltd
501-2903 Kingsview Boulevard Se,
Airdrie, AB T4A 0C4
403-945-1588
 
R.C.Reichert said:
Do you think it possible there may have been some local blacksmiths back then reproducing these large camp knives with thinner stock, say like closer to a 3/16" thickness? I want to be as authentic as possible. 1/4" steel seems pretty darn thick, a lot to grind.
Click to expand...

I think some folks would be surprised how thin some of the knives were back then. You mentioned correctly that 1/4" was pretty thick to work on back then. Heck, it's thick to work on now! I know they made thinner knives and got by just fine. I think the 'thicker is better' concept is more modern. And I know that a lot of guys that use knives a lot know that 1/8", 5/32" and 3/16" steel make more than capable blades. I know that there were lots of relatively large knives made with 1/8" stock or slightly thicker.
 
I forgot to mention, I think Can-Four only takes cheques. and I just checked my bank account and it was exactly $94.29 for a pail of Quench-K
 
I actually just got back from Cremona and I picked up some 1/8" x 2" 1075/1080. I also picked up some 3/16" x 2" 5160 for my larger camp knives. If I remembered correctly, the 5160 does not require any special treatment, was I right about that? Can I quench and temper the 5160 in about the same manner as I would do the 1075/1080? That being in a thin oil like canola?
 
Sam Salvati said:
I love this! HAHA!

Properly treated I think O1 blows either of those steels out of the water as far as edge holding...
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I beg to differ! The 1084 I've used can hold its own with the best of them. It's half the price of O1 yet more fine-grained with the standard heat treat. The edge retention of 1084 is very good at the higher hardnesses. You can carve wood (or skin deer) until your arms fall off and the edge will still shave.
 
Sam Salvati said:
I love this! HAHA!

Properly treated I think O1 blows either of those steels out of the water as far as edge holding...
Click to expand...

You are correct, but properly treated is the operative term. Torch and quench is not proper for O-1, so he would probably get more out of the 1080. Some of my early O-1 knives treated like this are handily whipped by my most recent 1084 knives. Glad none of them made it into customers' hands.

ETA: I use 1084, 1095, and O-1 exclusively so far.
 
okzj said:
You are correct, but properly treated is the operative term. Torch and quench is not proper for O-1, so he would probably get more out of the 1080. Some of my early O-1 knives treated like this are handily whipped by my most recent 1084 knives. Glad none of them made it into customers' hands.

ETA: I use 1084, 1095, and O-1 exclusively so far.
Click to expand...

I think you point out a mistake many people make when arguing over steels. It all boils down to the heat treat. Properly heat treated simple carbon steels will out perform improperly heat treated tool steels. Most of the time. :D I have said this many times, the steel is no better than the heat treat..... :)
 
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