Is 5/16 too thick for a knife blade?

ERdept

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Busse is coming out soon with a model called the Heavy Ordinance Fusion Steel heart. Same dimenisons as the model they currently have (blade about 7 inches long, about 1 1/2 inched wide, and 1/4 inches thick), spear point, but just thicker. I'm waiting on it, but if it's just gimicky, I won't buy it.

My question is... is 5/16 blade thickness, too practically thick to serve as a standard knife that will be used for batoning and a camp knife?

Once again, thanks great masses of knowledge.

Cliff
 
I've got a CS Trailmaster. It's listed as 5/16's and I like it. Of course, it's a longer blade than the Busse. So that may have something to do with the over all feel.
The thicker blade gives the whole knife a good balance for chopping and whatever else. But on a 2" shorter blade? I don't know. It may make it blade heavy???? I'd wait (like you're doing) and see how it feels.
 
Genius! If 1/4" is good, then 5/16" must be even better. I'm waiting for all the wet-noodle 1/4" blades to get dumped on the Exchange so that the owners can upgrade. :)
 
My thinking does not follow the pattern of more is better. I just want to get your opinion of the practicality of such a blade. What's your logical take on that?

Cliff :D
 
I can't see how a 1/16th of an inch difference would be enough to effect performance either way. That's a pretty slim difference.
 
I'm working on a custom order that is 5/16" O1 right now. 1/16" thicker then a 1/4" may not sound like much but when you compare the two, it's quite noticable. On large choppers like Busse is known for, I don't think it's to thick.
Scott
 
Although my fellow Busse hogs seem to like the thicker blades in the larger knives, I tend to the thinner ones, like the 3/16" Zero Tolerance series. If chopping is your goal, then the fat blades are probably just the ticket. If overall versatility is what you want, then go with the thinner ones.

I have one of the 1/4" Fusion Steel Hearts, and IMO it is somewhat over the weight I will ever carry on my person while hiking, hunting, or camping. It will be a truck knife. My most likely big Busse carry is a ZT SH E, out of the 45 or so that I have. I would love to have a 0.187" to 0.2" FSH, but don't know if such will ever be made.

However, since the HOGFSH is a never to be repeated issue, if you want a collector which will increase in value, (or if you want a user to increase in value for that matter), then it is hard to imagine a better Busse purchase.
I will have one for my collection, just because.
 
I bet it will break cinder blocks pretty good. I guess it depends on what you plan to use it for. I would think a 5/16 would be a great thickness for a tough ass beater or camp knife for splitting wood, clearing or making shelters and maybe some kitchen duties a clever would normally be used for like bone slab meat cutting chores to sectioning out big game.

I would think it would be a pretty good defensive weapon also.
 
1/16" makes a big difference. Razorback is cheating because he is using convex grinds, which is a different story (when done properly you can use pretty thick steel and still cut like crazy)! For a flat ground knife, though, the grind makes all the difference. If the grind is taken all the way up to the spine, 5/16" might not be too bad. It'd still be thicker than I'd want to use, but to each his own. If it was 1" wide steel stock with 5/16" steel, it'd be practically useless. If it was a 2.5" wide blade 5/16" stock might cut like a dream if it's a high, flat grind. So, the grind makes a big difference because it will change the dimensions of the edge and the overall thinness of the blade will be altered. I have khukuris that are over 1/2" thick and they chop like crazy, but they also have a weird compound grind that is hollow and convex at the same time, so it just depends on what they do to the knife.
 
I suppose if you want to use your knife as a hatchet or as a splitting-wedge, then 5/16" is okay...
but if you want to actually use your knife for slicing and cutting, then I think that 5/16" is too thick.

Yes, you can MAKE do with such a thick blade, but I'm willing to bet that after a single camping trip, you will want a thinner blade.

Goos luck,
Allen.
 
Chiro75 said:
1/16" makes a big difference. Razorback is cheating because he is using convex grinds, which is a different story (when done properly you can use pretty thick steel and still cut like crazy)! For a flat ground knife, though, the grind makes all the difference. If the grind is taken all the way up to the spine, 5/16" might not be too bad. It'd still be thicker than I'd want to use, but to each his own. If it was 1" wide steel stock with 5/16" steel, it'd be practically useless. If it was a 2.5" wide blade 5/16" stock might cut like a dream if it's a high, flat grind. So, the grind makes a big difference because it will change the dimensions of the edge and the overall thinness of the blade will be altered. I have khukuris that are over 1/2" thick and they chop like crazy, but they also have a weird compound grind that is hollow and convex at the same time, so it just depends on what they do to the knife.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=354805

Pics of the knife in question :p

It looks great, but I have a feeling I'm gonna be going for the normal FSH, and not the HOG :)
 
The Last Confederate said:
I can't see how a 1/16th of an inch difference would be enough to effect performance either way. That's a pretty slim difference.
It is 25% thicker than 1/4". A 1/4" blade is only 1/16" larger than a 3/16" blade. These can easily make large changes in blade stiffness, balance, and weight and are easily enough to effect cutting ability unless the geometry is adjusted.

[convex grinds]

Chiro75 said:
... when done properly you can use pretty thick steel and still cut like crazy
Same as any other grind, the extent of the grind and specifically how the edge is tapered is critically important. Convex grinds don't have an advantage here, if anything it is easier with flat and then hollow because you can create a thinner profile on the same stock thickness.

If it was 1" wide steel stock with 5/16" steel, it'd be practically useless.
David Boye's hunters were about an inch wide and they are all really thick, the ones I handled were just under 1/4", but some were significantly thicker. His dive knives were 0.30", just under 5/16" and the grind was only about an inch wide.

His blades cut very well on shallow cutting, as you don't cut with the spine, the thickness of the blade only matters if the material you are cutting can actually exert forces on the blade of the height necessary to make the spine thickness a factor, really rigid materials like thick vegetables and heavy cardboard.

Take one of Boye's knives and press it through a carrot alongside a Deerhunter and you will notice the spine being a drawback in regards to amount of force used and tendancy to crack the vegetables, however peel potatoes, cut ropes, fabrics, meats, light cardboard, carve woods, cut fish, etc., and they cut very well.

In general his knives outcut the vast majority of blades made out of thinner stock due to the fact that he grinds the edges so thin. In general I would take a different blade geometry for that type of knife but I would not call his useless. There are also advantages to the really thick stock such as if you do a lot of thumb on spine grip work. Some people also like the feel of more weight in the handle, assuming a sensible balance.

The ER Fulcrum IID has a much thicker grind even than Boye, as it is sabre ground on thicker stock, however if you full grind the primary :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/extrema%20ratio/fulcrum_modified.jpg

so the edge is < 0.005" thick, it can match the shallow cutting ability of knives like the Spyderco Military on 3/8" ropes, wood whittling, peeling vegetables.

The downside to thick stock is it needs thinner edges, thinner stock can leave thicker edges and get the same cutting ability and have vastly greater edge durability. But of course you lose prying ability and other features of the thick blade stock.

There are really no useless blade grinds, they just have the performance optomized for different tasks.

I have khukuris that are over 1/2" thick and they chop like crazy, but they also have a weird compound grind that is hollow and convex at the same time...
It is the normal hardwood axe grind. Some of them get more complex as they run multiple hollow grinds, but some axe grinds do as well with cheek hollows, multiple facing grinds and so forth, especially the racing axes.

-Cliff
 
So far, I've concluded that the (1)thickness is significant, but (2)not a hinderance depending on the grind. My tendency is towards getting it. More input is welcome.

cliff
 
Here's my opinion, you're buying an axe disguised as a knife. If that's what you want then great. I'm going to figure you will have other, thinner knives to do cutting with.
 
I'm assuming the advantage to going with the thicker stock is to increase prying strength. Yes?

I can also see using thicker stock if you just want more weight, to increase momentum for chopping. But that doesn't really make sense on a 7 inch blade. It would be far better to just make the blade longer, if that were the case.

I've seen people who want a thicker blade to make it "stronger" for chopping and general beating up. To me, that doesn't make a whole lot of sense when we're already starting out with 1/4" stock. So you won't be able to break the knife in half. Great. It's still useless if you break 2 inch long semi-circular notches out of the edge. Ya gotta keep in mind that no matter how thick you make the spine, the edge will always be the weakest link in the chain, since there's a definite limit on how thick you can make it. Likewise, it makes no sense to start out with thick stock, put on a high flat grind to make it cut, and then don't reinforce the point by changing the primary grind angles. The thick part of the spine may not break, but you don't want a half inch of steel to easily snap off the tip, either.
 
Cliff Stamp said:
It is 25% thicker than 1/4". A 1/4" blade is only 1/16" larger than a 3/16" blade. These can easily make large changes in blade stiffness, balance, and weight and are easily enough to effect cutting ability unless the geometry is adjusted. -Cliff

Realistically how much?

In real world proper knife use?

Enough to drastically be noticable by the user?
 
1. Cool Factor. Just to have something different from most knives.
2. The weight of having a chunk of steel in your hands.
3. Prying strength. The very thing we were told to never do with a knife.
4. A lot of stock that can be ground down over and over for a lifetime.

All that aside, I want to know if it can cut something easily. ;)
 
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