Is 5/16 too thick for a knife blade?

Ok, so you want one because it's "sexsay" and you can be a bad boy with it, fair enough. There's worse reason to buy knives. :p (Just buy it!)
 
The Last Confederate said:
Enough to drastically be noticable by the user?
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The BK9 combat Bowie is 0.215" thick and weighs 530 grams. My SHBM is 0.275" thick and weighs 660 g, it is 1/16" thicker than the BK9. They both have full flat grinds on similar width blades and both have similar balance points, one inch infront of the guard.

These knives are not even close in scope of work, they don't handle similar at all, and the performance is massively difference in chopping, the SHBM is about 50% better for thick wood work. No one would confuse the two knives. I broke a BK9 under a load which won't even significantly bend the SHBM.

So yes, 1/16" can make a significant difference, 25% is a lot, some performance properties like strength are also not linear in thickness and thus they go up many to one over changes in stock.

ERdept said:
I want to know if it can cut something easily.
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Assuming the edge has an sensible profile for the task, if it doesn't then have the angle and relief adjusted to match your required scope of work.

-Cliff
 
The thickness seems a bit much for a shorter blade of 7", but then again it would probably be great for batoning.
 
There are WANTS and NEEDS in life. We really just need food and shelter. We want everything else. Just to what degree is the question...you can buy a Civic or Rolls. They both serve as cars that transport you, which is the PRIMARY purpose. But, what do we want??????????????? Well, human nature dictates, everything in between for whatever purposes you justify them to be.

cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
It is 25% thicker than 1/4". A 1/4" blade is only 1/16" larger than a 3/16" blade. These can easily make large changes in blade stiffness, balance, and weight and are easily enough to effect cutting ability unless the geometry is adjusted.

[convex grinds]

Same as any other grind, the extent of the grind and specifically how the edge is tapered is critically important. Convex grinds don't have an advantage here, if anything it is easier with flat and then hollow because you can create a thinner profile on the same stock thickness.


There are also advantages to the really thick stock such as if you do a lot of thumb on spine grip work. Some people also like the feel of more weight in the handle, assuming a sensible balance.


The downside to thick stock is it needs thinner edges, thinner stock can leave thicker edges and get the same cutting ability and have vastly greater edge durability. But of course you lose prying ability and other features of the thick blade stock.

There are really no useless blade grinds, they just have the performance optomized for different tasks.


-Cliff
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I have to agree with Cliff on the above statements. My main grind when making knives is the convex grind. I tell people looking for a convexed knife if you want the advantage of the convex grind but still want to slice then you need to go with thinner stock. I have had good results slicing with a convex grind using 1/8" stock or less. Also using 5/32" stock brought down to a zero edge works well for slicing. The 1/8" seems to be the best compromise.You will be giving up the ability to have lateral strength by going with thinner stock. The two pics show a 1/4" Steel Heart 5160 blade blank that I bought from Justin Gingrich and finished with my convex grind. It has a convex grind, full to the edge. A very very slight secondary bevel. Hardly noticeable. The other pic shows the edge. Sorry for the bad pic, it was tough to get a clear shot of the edge.
Scott
 
Razorback-
I was just a bit curious about the project you mentioned.
You said you're making a blade 5/16" thick from O-1. Why would you choose a steel that's not exactly known for toughness, on such a heavy-duty blade? Unless this is a wood working tool, where you just need the weight for momentum and the thickness for wedging, or something. ?
 
the possum said:
Razorback-
I was just a bit curious about the project you mentioned.
You said you're making a blade 5/16" thick from O-1. Why would you choose a steel that's not exactly known for toughness, on such a heavy-duty blade? Unless this is a wood working tool, where you just need the weight for momentum and the thickness for wedging, or something. ?
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This is a customer design and order. O1 was requested by the customer. I do not normally make knives thicker then 1/4". Talk about hogging off steel. :eek: This is definately alot of steel to grind.
Scott
 
How much is something like the pic above? Do you do 3V steel? In about a 9 inch blade that's starts off at 5/16 inch thickness, with G-10 handle and removable handle rivits, that's coated for rust protection, in a recurve style?

Potenial customer talkin now,

Cliff
 
ERdept said:
How much is something like the pic above? Do you do 3V steel? In about a 9 inch blade that's starts off at 5/16 inch thickness, with G-10 handle and removable handle rivits, that's coated for rust protection, in a recurve style?

Potenial customer talkin now,

Cliff
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I appreciate the offer Cliff but I don't use 3V. I use 5160, O1, D2 and A2. The four steels I use I can heat treat. I have no experience with 3V. As far as the other requests, yes.
Scott
 
Original poster:

If you like the knife because of it's uniqueness, looks and flat out sex appeal then I think you should buy the thing. I would not expect it to bowl you over with overall cutting ability, but to chop and baton and use at the camp - sure. You can also rest assured that very few obstacles will ever present themselves that the blade can't handle (although little slivers in your hand may be tough... ;) )

Hey razorback...how do you like A2 overall? I have 2 knives in this steel and like them quite a lot. Would love a makers opinion.
 
kbog, A2 is a very tough steel. Edge holding is good and it makes a great outdoor use blade. I serve the outdoor knife user and from asking different outdoor enthusiasts, A2 was one of the steels that was mentioned. A2 is also great in the large knife catagory.
Scott
 
ERdept said:
1. Cool Factor. Just to have something different from most knives.
2. The weight of having a chunk of steel in your hands.
3. Prying strength. The very thing we were told to never do with a knife.
4. A lot of stock that can be ground down over and over for a lifetime.

All that aside, I want to know if it can cut something easily. ;)
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Well, first off, it's bigger than 7", more like 9". Busse measures the edge, not tip to micarta. The older Steel Hearts have a 7" edge, but the blade is about 8". This has a 8" edge, so add about another inch.

I don't carry my SHSH's, so I won't talk about them. I DO have several Straight Handled Badger Attacks that I DO carry. The edge is 4", but the blade is right at 5". They range in thickness from 1/4" to 5/16". All are identical except for thickness and are carried EDC on a somewhat rotating basis.

None of them are what I would call slicers, sharp as they are. That's not their function. I have a Sebbie on me also if I need to slice something or not scare the sheeple. That is IT'S only purpose. The SHBA is to get me out of my SUV in the event I go into a canal. Don't laugh, we had 2 people die just this week going into canals. 30 to 50 a year just in Dade and Broward counties alone. We have a boatload of canals here.

Anyway, I like the thicker ones, from just over 1/4" (.278), to the 5/16 (.31x). You can feel the difference in your hand. It's hard to explain until you handle 3 or 4 knives that are identical except for the thickness of the stock. Even a few hundredths is noticable. You KNOW you a hunka hunka in the hand when it's there. LOL And you can pry to your hearts content. Just using arm strength, you're not going to break ANY Steel heart or any other Busse if you have 1/2" or so into the medium.

I'm babble'ng. Get one. If you don't like it, I'LL buy it! (Get the Magnum handles though). Plenty of material to shape to fit your hand. These bad boys just have to be experienced to fully understand.

BTW, I have several of the older SHSH's, 2 of which are 5/16". They aren't EDC though, that's why I talked about what's on my belt. I'm going to get a HOFSH though, I'll let history repeat itself.

Rob
 
The Last Confederate said:
Realistically how much?

In real world proper knife use?

Enough to drastically be noticable by the user?
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Great questions. I can compare my CS Trailmaster and Recon Scout to my Becker BK9 and CU/7. Not completely analogous, but close enough...

To start off with, I like all 4. They all have vastly different uses that they are good at. The BK9 is my brush knife, good at chopping small springy vegetation. It's very light, holds a great edge, and is easy to clean off. It's the closest thing to a machete that I have or want. The CU/7 is a perfect truck knife. Same great steel, does lots of things well, great all around knife, especially once I dremeled in a choil (personal preference). Neither of these knives make good wood choppers, too light and not well balanced for it. But that's ok, I didn't buy them to be wood choppers.

The CS RS. This would be the one knife I would take in the woods if it's all that I had (from these 4 to choose from). Even at 7 inches, the 5/16 gives it enough weight to be a surprisingly effective chopper. Easily twice as good as teh CU/7 and still better than the BK9. Nice wide spine for my thumb, and nice sharp edges for my fire steel. This baby gets the nod more than most of my others. The Trailmaster, quite the chopper. Easily 50% better than the already good RS. I thinned the edge out to about 20 or 25 deg total (included), so that it's shiny about 1/4 to 3/8 inch up the blade with my Edgepro. Outchops all my other blades except my HI Khukuris. Hands down. Thin enough edge to do some surprising good cutting.

Although the Beckers are more like 3/16 rather than 1/4, the 5/16 CS knives outchop them tremendously. This is not a slam on the Beckers, just a different scope of work. After all, they all are allegedly the same steel.... The extra thickness makes a **huge** difference. Just make sure that it is for the application that you are looking for.
 
Here’s hoping that the Busse FBM will be 5/16 thick. With a 10” blade and a full flat grind it will be one heck of a chopper.
 
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