I tried to split wood with my norse hawk and the profile is wrong for splitting wood, a regular hatchet is much better.
that's because that knifelike style edge of the Cold Steel Hawks are made primarily for softwoods, brother.
ya gotta think
indirectly when using a tomahawk for utility if you are really going to enjoy it IMHO...;
next time knock down some small rounds with the Norse and chop them into
spikes or wedges, then crack the log with the Norse and pound the steaks through to split the wood.
i do that with the little
Trail Hawk head. it saves the edge and you don't ever risk your tool - this is the same thing i do instead of batoning a good knife though wood too. - i rarely risk my tools. - it's not a good survival habit IMHO. test them at home, sure - but don't risk them out in the wild IMHO.
- less weight penalty and better movement with a tomahawk than a hatchet.
hatchets are nice around camp or in a car where you don't have to lug them around or use them for knife chores like with a hawk, but a hawk will always be better for me than a hatchet - i carried a hatchet for twenty years at least before i switched to proper hawks.
in a hatchet's weight class, i prefer a modified Riflemans Hawk, like these
(top one and bottom two) - they are better for intricate wood stuff and hunting IMHO than klutzy hatchets, because of the edge geometries that make them suck at splitting without the wedges i mentioned earlier.
i think it's a very decent trade-off.
there are things that you can do to hawks that will make them split better anyways, by shaping the secondary edge at a rather wide angle on the sweet spot, etc.
HTH.
vec