Is Blade Play really such a bad thing?!?!

Every spring assisted SOG I have owned has had a slight amount of play. SOG says it's normal for these specific knives but I say they're full of it.

I have had assisted folders from other brands that have all locked up rock solid and I've had autos with zero bladeplay too. There is no reason for bladeplay to be "normal" on SOG assisted folders. I'd say the only type of knife where a slight amount of bladeplay is 100% normal and acceptable is an OTF knife.
 
On a used knife, I will put up with blade play.

On a new knife, I will avoid that manufacturer in the future.
 
On the sog spec elite 1 a. If I tighten the pivot then it has no play up-down, side-side. But then It doesn't whack open hard. And the button takes a second to lock in or a slight push on the back of the blade locks the button out. If i loosen it a bit to where it just flicks open with authority, a lil play. I can get it just right to where the pivot is tightened enough for no play and the button is good. How do I keep it like that? Or fix this issue? Loctite or any ideas?
 
So all you guys, the sog spec elite 1 auto, supposed to have any either direction or not? Anyone have experience with Sog's? Or autos having any? Are they designed to have some because of all the moving parts?
Click to expand...

One of my friends was really into SOGs, but after buying a few he found they were prone to develop blade play.
 
here is also been some good testing and evaluation done by Kyle Harris (cKc Knives) from new Zealand discussing blade play vs lock security. In short, though we think blade play is bad, making a truly dependable lock in the framelock/linerlock conversion requires some blade play.
Have a look at these videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7I3fJVL3DT4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2cZQv5cIqQ

You can see from the videos that even with blade play a lock can still be very secure, very reliable and would require the entire lock to self-destruct in order to disengage.

[video=youtube;A2f5h9zFQvE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2f5h9zFQvE[/video]

Real interesting comments from Gavkoo on the folder of Kyle and what makers such as Bob Terzuola said about bladeplay being a thread for the specific market, yet there is nothing wrong with the desing.

People presume that blade play is bad, but not for a reliable lock. I would venture and say that the Victorinox soldier will only fail if there is a catastrophic failure of nature, same as the Tri-Ad. Under static load, the soldier might even surprise the best of us.

Interesting thing on how durable a liner can be:

[video=youtube;-MxCDbAW638]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MxCDbAW638[/video]

dshunti28 said:
On the sog spec elite 1 a. If I tighten the pivot then it has no play up-down, side-side. But then It doesn't whack open hard. And the button takes a second to lock in or a slight push on the back of the blade locks the button out. If i loosen it a bit to where it just flicks open with authority, a lil play. I can get it just right to where the pivot is tightened enough for no play and the button is good. How do I keep it like that? Or fix this issue? Loctite or any ideas?
Click to expand...

It has been noted by Benchmade (cant find the video now) that a small amount of bladeplay is required for Auto knives in order to have that fast deployment. So in short, if you have an auto, a certain amount of bladeplay can be expected in order for it to function correctly.
 
dshunti28 said:
or any ideas?
Click to expand...

Yeah, buy a real knife next time.

Or if it bothers you that much just send it back in to SOG and I'm sure they'll take care of you. They may make slighty more than mediocre folding knives but at least their CS is pretty good.
 
I hate blade play, I don't even care if it actually effects anything, I hate it all the same. I don't mind blade "flex", as on many lockbacks, but clickity-click play is unacceptable...
 
Blade play is exactly the thing that can disgust from a folder, although it "may" not be a safety issue. But I like a blade to feel steady and reliable in the hand. However, I never expect a folder of any kind to be as reliable as a fixed blade. My experience on the subject : a Case Sodbuster slip-joint with no lateral play at all (25 $, lucky me, probably... a keeper), an EKA Swede 92 Masur (locking) with both lateral and vertical play (60 $, unlucky me, could be. Still a nice knife, strictly kept to sandwiching, of course. Won't buy another EKA folder.), a Svord Peasant not even functional on delivery (50 $, nice knife after hours of fiddling with additional shims (and other finishing). The lever concept makes it as reliable as the strength of your hand. Lateral play and opening / closening smoothness are top after a lot of finicking. I like it now but it's my last Svord folder ever). Short story : I own some very cheap fixed blades (Condor, Morakniv,...) which are not stellar tools or weapons but they are plenty efficient and reliable. In this price range, folders are probably disappointing (they should satisfy the same requests for blade and handle as a fixed but have added requests for the mechanism) or at equal quality, will be more expensive. Consider also that the cheaper the knife, the sloppier or randomer the QC will be (that's were the "lucky" factor comes in play. Admittable on low priced knives, maybe, but not too often). And this is a serious issue for a folder.... if you hate blade play, that is.
 
My sebenza completely ruined me on this topic. After feeling that knife, anything less than rock solid lockup is totally unacceptable to me.
 
getout87 said:
My sebenza completely ruined me on this topic. After feeling that knife, anything less than rock solid lockup is totally unacceptable to me.
Click to expand...

Haha, Yeah, that can happen. It's kind of funny seeing people down grade a CRK then throw a hissy fit about blade play and off centering on their other knives. With a CRK you're almost guaranteed to get a 99% perfect knife, yet to them it's not worth it.
 
Blade play interest really started with the internet. Before that, most didn't notice or care. Now blades MUST be absolutely centered when closed, no play at all, etc., etc. But, when I spend over $400, I expect the same, so I'm as guilty as the next. Dang internet!
 
I have better lock-up on some $50 knives than I do on my $200 knives and like another poster said, these "issues" with new knives seems more like phantom problems by over informed buyers. When it starts to exceed a $200 price point I want a solid lock, little to no play, and quality materials. At price points below that people simply need to stop being so critical of the workmanship.

If the play is great enough to affect function or safety then that's another story.
 
It is not : a blade should be steady and reliable. Fixed or foldable is not the matter... whatever it is : steady and reliable[/SIZE].
Seems you can't have both, so I keep to fixed blades. Some perform brilliantly, despite their low price, others bonk or delight... It's way more safe than the folder zone.
 
I hate blade play, it bugs me and can be really dissapointing. I guess it depends on how much you pay though and where you choose to part with your cash. I have a Rough rider sunfish with quite a bit of blade play on the main blade and it bothers me but not that much as I don't really use it or expect that much from it, there is however barely any on my Rough rider twin blade trapper.

My biggest battle with blade play was with my Buck 110! seriously annoying stuff..

First one came with a bit of play that worsened over a day or two of use.. then it's lock failed with a little bit of force on the back of the blade when open (breaking rabbit bones for stew). Sent it back, got it replaced and the new one has less play but still a fair ammount.. and plenty to upset me :grumpy:

So.. I contacted the Buck quality control guy (Jeff Hubbard - really nice guy!) and he had a 110 custom assembled for me and it's so much better! like it should have been in the first place!

A Buck ain't a Buck, if it ain't tough! ;)


This is the second one - before Jeff kindly sent me a lovely brand new one free of charge to repalce it!


buckfit5_zps79a64f12.jpg

buckfit4_zpsaae79494.jpg

buckfit3_zpse7e3597f.jpg


as you can see there's 0.5-1mm of room there for wobble! not great, and actually easy to fix by squeezing the bolsters together and peening the pin better.. shame they couldn't do it right the first 2 times :(
 
How much force do you use when checking for blade play?
When I use a firm grip most are tight. If I really crank down
on them to the point of flexing the blade I may get a bit.
 
Depends on how much I spend, to be honest with you.........

1) If I bought a custom, CRK, or other high dollar folder...........bladeplay or ANY OTHER DEFECT would be unacceptable. When you spend that kind of coin, you are buying attention to detail and refinement. Blade play is a part of refinement. If I spend $500 on a knife, I paid for refinement because I can find a knife for much less that will do the same job just as well. It's about my enjoyment at that point.

2) Users/beaters/used knives/production knives <~$35. I don't look at blade-play or other minor defects as an automatic no-go. I don't like it, but if I buy a knife of this category, I am looking for something that I can destroy and not feel bad about it anyhow, so it is likely to going to end up with blade play before I am done with it........

3) Knives I bought as collection pieces. Blade play is a no-go, but usually knives of this category that I am willing to buy have been "tested" by other people....I read reviews on the products I buy, ESPECIALLY in this category. If I bought a knife like this, it is usually on the continuous recommendation by people on this board, and it usually ends up in my drawer and carried on special occasions.
 
FTR-14c said:
How much force do you use when checking for blade play?
When I use a firm grip most are tight. If I really crank down
on them to the point of flexing the blade I may get a bit.
Click to expand...

I check with finger force, no blade bending or anything but enough to check for easy wobble. Try placing the knife body/handle down on a flat surface with the blade hanging over, apply force with your pinch grip to the tip of the blade and try to feel for any. You'll find if you test the tip the blade will be more apparrent than when you check the base of the blade.
 
I can't live with blade plays :) for me, every branded knife should have no bladeplay at all.

But I do agree, blade play biggest concern came from emotional feelings rather than it's safety.
 
I actually have a disorder that some may tease about--it is called OCD (Obsessive Compulsive Disorder)--specifically, my OCD focuses on blade-play in folders as well as other nit-picky issues that seem to endlessly drive me crazy. Anywho, I went and saw a specialist who 100% of the time deals with these types of issues and he sent me a few things that have completely healed me of my suffering:

SmallRegwLJimping11_zps02d8cd74.jpeg
 
No its not a bad thing at all. As long as its not ridiculously bad. But nowadays people love to cry over every little thing. The whole blade play argument and blade centering argument have got to be the most ridiculous things to knock a folder for that I've ever heard of.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top