Originally posted by kapncake
It also seems that on a few of their knives they have gone to 440A sub-zero quench as in the recon 1 folder. It used to be AUS8A. I was going to purchase a recon at AUS8A but now in 440A, it's off my list unless someone has used this metal and can tell me the 440A Sub-Zero is anywhere near the quality of 8A.- Cant find any specs on the 440a SZ. Dave
AUS-8 is a little better, but not a lot. If you like the knife, I wouldn't let 440A scare you away completely, if it's priced right.
To start with, it's 440A. That means:
0.65-0.75 carbon
16.00-18.00 chrome
1.00 Manganese
0.75 Molyb
Carbon level would, by itself, imply the hardness is only slightly limited...I'd guess Rc58 is attainable after temper. Need to see their specs of course. (to the extent Carbon goes into chrome carbides, you get at least some abrasion resistance).
Cryo: lots of hype out there. And benefits depend on the steel and the heat treat (quality, or quick/dirty) it got before cryo.
Amount of improvement depends on steel complexity... 440A and 420Mod/HC don't strike me as terribly complex.
I tend to find that RJ Martin is one of the guys you can trust on such matters. Here are a couple good posts:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=219930
Gentlemen: Here it is, plain and simple:
The more highly alloyed the steel, the more benefit from cryo. THis is because the higher the alloy content, the lower the Mf (Martensite Finish)temp. The colder you go, the more transformation you get. LN2 is capable of producing over 99% transformation in any knife steel that was properly heat treated to begin with. As to cooling rate, the "slow down", soak and "slow-up" cycles are to prevent thermal shock from uneven cooling in thicker parts, like cylinder blocks, etc.
Being thin, knife blades can generally be dunked right in with no ill effects, since they cool rapidly through their thickness.
A snap temper, or a full temper prior to cryo produces smaller grain size and reduces the thermal stress caused by the LN2 treatment.
Double tempering after cryo is the best. A single temper is a necessity.
Here's a snippet from this thread:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=107573
Sub zero treatment will benefit a blade made from virtually any material-some more than others, but all will benefit. There is hard evidence to support this.
With a steel such as ATS34, which is fairly highly alloyed, the Martensite Finish temperature is WAY below RT [room temperature].
Can you not sub zero heat treat? Sure.
Is it cheaper and easier not to sub-zero treat? Sure
Can you get "the right" Rc hardness without sub zero treatment? Yes.
Will cryogenic treatment enhance the properties and microstructure of the blade, regardless of how it was heat treated? DEFINITELY
One last tip-if the maker says it's cryogenically treated, ask them how it's done-LN2, -120F cold box, or just their ice-cream freezer! The colder the better-LN2 rules! (the freezer barely counts)
...I do know what works, and have personally experienced the remarkable effects of cryogenic treatment on tool steels. All my drill bits, end mills, carbide tools, etc get treated in my Dewars flask of LN2, and they last longer and cut better.
The more sophisticated the steel, the more you NEED to cryo treatment. And remember, you still need to know your stuff when it comes to the heat treatment itself.
And, as always, hard to completely trust those who derive most of their income from cryo, due to the hype surrounding the whole thing. Those that use it at their expense, probably do so for performance reasons.
So, the big question is "how do you know the company you buy the cheap steel from still gives it a good heat treat". By using, others experience, or by reputation.
Example: Buck keeps Paul Bos on staff for this reason... he supervises but doesn't actually perform the heat treat on most of their product... from what I understand anyway.