Is CPM 3V a tough steel to sharpen?

Also, 400 grit when jumping from a 22-25 degree edge is a lot of work.

I've used regular stones from Lansky, and diamond stones on CPM3v with excellent results.

Medium and fine Ceramic stones from Spyderco to touch up.

I would bet you are not getting an apex.

Did you raise a bur?
 
me2 said:
If it was sharpened at 22-25 dps and you’re jumping all the way to 15 you’d better get a chair and some water. You’ll be there a while.

I’d recommend smaller jumps of 2-3 degrees and just use it a while until it’s dull then drop a little more. Say 25 or match the original angle. After it’s dull, resharpen at 22. Next time do 19, and so on until you get where you want.

How wide is the blade? Did you measure the angle or just use the marks on the Wicked Edge? You may be going even lower than you think.
Click to expand...
That's where a 1x30 would come in handy. Or in my case, a Tormek with 160 grit CBN wheel would do the job in under 5 minutes.
 
I finally figured it out guys. You were all correct. I wasn’t hitting a full apex. I knocked it back down to 20dps and it’s sharp like I would expect. I thought about this over a matter of days and took all your advice into account.
Thank you all very much.
 
It's usually faster and easier for me to see if I have fully reached the apex by using good light than it is with a loop. Sunlight over the shoulder is probably the best but it's not necessary, any strong light will do, if it isn't fully apexed it will reflect light. I use the led light on my loop more than I use the magnification.

I hone lots of old vintage razors so the technique is really useful there, but it translates to anything I sharpen, including burr removal on things like axes.

Just look closely right at the apex with the light coming from the line of sight.
 
garry3 said:
It's usually faster and easier for me to see if I have fully reached the apex by using good light than it is with a loop. Sunlight over the shoulder is probably the best but it's not necessary, any strong light will do, if it isn't fully apexed it will reflect light. I use the led light on my loop more than I use the magnification.

I hone lots of old vintage razors so the technique is really useful there, but it translates to anything I sharpen, including burr removal on things like axes.

Just look closely right at the apex with the light coming from the line of sight.
Click to expand...
I like both magnification and light, but you're right, once you know what to look for the way light reflects off the edge will tell you a lot. My eyes decided to take a crap the last couple of years, so magnification helps me too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top