Is Hermann Oak Worth The Price?

Yep! If the tooth brush or an even stiffer plastic brush doesn't work you can cut as you go with your projects, when you reach the region in question you can soak a small portion and see if it releases. Like Horsewright says, the warm water will open the leather up and help it release the trash. A little easier than soaking a whole side or shoulder.

Either way, otherwise it looks like a great clean piece of leather! I used to use Herman Oak a lot when Tandy carried it, I do miss it.
 
Looking to get my hands on some leather and get back into this full swing. Shopping around the different suppliers and just wanted to see what opinions are out there, esp as it's been a year since this original post. I want to start with veg tanned natural and dyed in 2-3 colors all in 3-4 different weights (4/5 oz, 6/7 oz, 8/9 oz). Recommendations?
NOT trying to start a debate, just a who's your preference.

Also: What changes have people seen in the past year in regards to weather/crops/cattle (there was a post referencing climate changes and the effects feed, etc.). Any concerns with the current climate?

thanks
Terence

edit: wanted to emphasize not trying to start a debate
 
Terence, this post is worth what you paid for it and as you'll see opinions vary a lot. For drum dye veg tan I order skirting backs from W&C. I used to cut the bellies off, but it is actually cheaper to buy a back and then a belly if you need it, and without the belly you will save on sq footage plus shipping which can really add up on 10+ side orders (first price break @ 10). I started getting really good consistency when I moved to the skirting leathers split from a heavier weight versus ordering an 8/10 oz side. I'll order a 12oz back and have it holstered, split to 8, and resprayed so the color is back on the back side of the hide. On 6 and below hides you can order a 10oz and have it split which is the lowest cost hides. For a 10 oz hide you are going to have to have it split from a 14+ which may take a while to come around as the thicker ones are harder to get a hold of according to the tannery. W&C's surcharge decreased some about 2 weeks ago which is a good sign for prices and the first decrease I've experienced.

I stock 8 oz W&C skirting in Chestnut, Mahogany, Russet, Brown, Havana, and Black, 4 & 6 oz in brown and natural, and 10 & 14 oz in brown, black, and natural.
 
Terence I use both HO and W & C. I have had a long standing love/hate relationship with HO for many many years and am a somewhat recent user of W & C. They are distinctly different. I tend to use HO on most of my sheaths. Some of that has to do with logistics more than a preference. I have two clicker dies and the sheath shapes that they yield will take care of 90 percent or more of the sheaths I make, my : Pancake sheath, Slotted sheath, Horizontal sheath, Gordo sheath and Vertical pancake sheath are all done using these dies. Weaver keeps these dies on file and does the clicker work for me. They sell HO and so that is the leather I use for my sheaths. So instead of getting a big roll of sides of leather I get a big box of sheath shapes. Their labor cost is ridiculously inexpensive for this and averages out to $18 a side. On an average batch of knives this saves me a whole day of cutting out sheaths. Each one is still trimmed and fitted to a specific knife but the cutting out of the sheaths was on average an 8 hour shop day. $18 bucks vs an 8 hour day, no brainer. BTW Nichole uses 5/8" straps and 1" straps on her purses. She has them cut up a side for her and its like $8 for that. If you have something repeatable that you use all the time it might be worthwhile having somebody do that for you. There are other outfits that offer that too, Weaver is just who we use. Anyhoo I usually have several sides of HO and W & C on hand as well. To me and in my experience the average side of W&C has more usable leather on it than the average side of HO. You can get bad sides from both outfits but I've seen fewer from W&C. There is a lot of talk and some of it on this thread about cattle markets etc affecting leather but I think its QC more than anything. Recent examples with in the last year: last night pulled one of my HO sheath shapes out of the box, turned it over and went wow, rawhide in the center of it. Had 4 from that batch, all from the same side that simply had rawhide on them. It was all on the flesh side so the worker at Weaver probably never saw it but there you go. Thats QC not rainfall or the price of corn or anything else. I got a box of sheath shapes couple of months back and 10 of them had hair on them still. So that one you gotta share some of the blame with the worker at Weaver. So no one noticed while clicking out this side of HO veggie tan that there was some hair on it? QC again not the size of the cattle herd or the age at slaughter. I received a whole batch and it just didn't seem like HO. Different color, didn't stamp the same, didn't oil the same and most of all when you dampened it for stamping or wet molding a sheath it came up with green mold like spots all over. Now some imported leathers will do this and it kinda had that more grayish color of some of the imported leathers. Got me to thiking it wasn't HO. Weaver had me send back a few. They had the same problems with it and solved the green spots by mixing Pro Carv at a 1:1 ratio instead of 10:1. QC again. But dang it this is HO and I sholdn't have to be using Pro Carv at 1:1 ratio to make it work. Now to give Weaver their due they more than have taken care of any problems but that has been my recent experience. I have a side right now of HO from a different supplier. I un rolled it when it came and it was so bad I said I can't use this. My supplier replaced it and this one was so bad they just had me keep it they didn't want it back either, so I'm using it for welts. When I unroll a new side I grade it based on usability. I guesstimate how much is good and how much is scrap. I have had sides up to 85 -90 percent some a little higher maybe. This one I graded at about a 10 percent. Again a QC issue. The worst W & C side I have ever received, I have right now and I graded it at about 60- 65 percent. These problems that I outlined have been all within the last few months.

When this thread was around the first time there were some things mentioned regarding the cowherd here in the US and possible reasons for the leather not being so great etc. Some of it didn't sound right to me as a cattleman so I did some research. Yes the cowherd in the US is at its lowest numbers since the 1950s. However, numbers of cattle slaughtered and slaughter weights have remained the same over the last ten years which is up considerably from the 50s. So we as cattleman are more efficient, takes fewer cows to produce more calves to grow to slaughter weight, better vaccines, medicines just better husbandry over all is what that tells us. Cattle are not being slaughtered earlier, the average slaughter weight has remained the same. If I sell a 5 month old calf it doesn't go to slaughter. When I sold my good, young 4 year old cows because of the drought they didn't go to slaughter, they went to Nebraska because they had a good year there, more grass then they knew what to do with. I know I checked with the brand inspector. That what happens in a drought, somebody who has grass buys cattle from somebody who doesn't have grass. Big outfits will have ranches in several different states to mitigate this. Largest ranch around here just shipped all their cattle to OR. They'll come back in Nov. Point is according to the USDA which tracks all this and published this info, tanneries are basically getting the same hides they've been getting nothing has changed except QC perhaps? Interestingly when I looked up all the stats the USDA's figures were confirmed by the...SPCA. Which got this sceptic thinking why does the SPCA track cattle slaughter figures?? Maybe someone wants us to go out for a brocolli not a steak and not play with leather..... I see a conspiracy, pass out the tinfoil hats to keep the neurontic rays away from our heads!
 
Thanks for taking the time to share that Dave. What's the type of leather you order on Weaver? i.e. their categories like skirting, strap, harness, bridle... Strap and skirting seem to be the only two in natural. Weaver's prices seem a bit higher than W&C at/about 13/sq ft for strap and 16/sq ft for skirting.
Anyone have any experience with Horween? Essex/Dublin is their veg tanned. Waiting on swatches and price sheet from them and W.C. In the meantime having a heck of a time cross referencing the types - for instance H.O. has a list of their types of leather but the lists on say Springfield or Weaver's don't exactly correlate. (Does Weaver group H.O.'s tooling/carving into strap and dyed? I guess I'll call them tomorrow...)

thanks again
Terence
 
For my sheaths I get the HO holster leather catalog number 04-510S (7/8oz). I have them trim the belly off before die cutting the side. I use the belly for welts. For a side of leather to have around for other projects I use 04-500S Strap Tooling and Moulding side by HO but seldom order it from Weaver unless I'm already ordering other stuff and saving on shipping. They are more expensive even on wholesale prices. Saddle skirting is just a heavier weight. I want to make sure to add that when the HO is good it is very very good leather. All the W&C I use is 8/10 oz russet saddle skirting and I get it from The Hide House. They carry HO too.

The horsehide we use for certain projects is tanned by Horween. All their leathers have an excellent rep. I've not used any of the Essex or Dublin. They would probably not wet mold too well or case too well and so havn't played with them. I know that guys that make $3,000 briefcases use those Horween's almost exclusively.
 
Thanks Dave
I figured out part of the problem - using Weaver's filter by weight hides the sides with "holster" in their title. Looking at the item #s you listed it looks like they group all the tooling under strap, so that answers that.
No phone number on their site so I filled out an info request.
I've seen Horween attached to a lot of things - footballs and sport's equipment, watch straps, shoes, briefcases, and on. Have wondered why I never see it attached to sheaths and holsters. Their tannery list is something like 40 types long. I contacted them out of curiosity and expected the price to be crazy high but 13.55/sq ft on a 20 sq ft hide was lower than I expected. Caveat is that is for 6oz, with heavier weights having a surcharge. I found out they have a retail branch with no min order. However, that was for the veg tanned Dublin which if it can't or isn't suitable for what I need it for then all that info is moot. Their lead on horse is 12 weeks, ouch, but good to know for consideration down the road.

In light of what I've seen in some other posts I just want to express a deep gratitude for what insight you and Eagle have provided, not to mention information provided by Dwayne Puckett, Paul Long, G2G, and countless others over the years. Here's to many more :thumbup:

Terence
 
You bet bud! We get the horse butts from Sheridan Leather supply. Get ya a couple to play with why your waiting on the other stuff.
 
Horsehide in general is a different animal all together (literally and figuratively). It requires a serious soaking to get it to wet mold and takes dye inconsistently which some people like. I had no idea you could buy a whole side direct from horween and may try to do so for belts. Horse due to it's density repels moisture a lot better than cow hide. I've used it as a backer on lined holsters and have made some whole holsters out of it but inconsistent supply of quality hides has kept me out of that game. Horween is considered an industry standard for many fine leather wares and the chrom-excel is really popular with folks for things like wallets and the like.

From me playing with it a 6oz piece of horsehide acts like an 8oz piece of cowhide which is an advantage. The flesh side is a heck of a lot smoother as well. Lots of advantages if you can take advantage of them.
 
Can I ask a question about Horse hide .
Lately my requirements of leather has changed because I now mostly make Rough Out sheaths .
My desire for clean mark free leather on the outer smooth side has reversed and I now rate the hide by its Rough side .
How clean and smooth and dense is the Rough side of Horse hide ?
It sounds like Horse may have a number of attributes that interest me , but having never had anything to do with it I'm interested in knowing if it would work Rough Out .

Ken
 
Can I ask a question about Horse hide .
Lately my requirements of leather has changed because I now mostly make Rough Out sheaths .
My desire for clean mark free leather on the outer smooth side has reversed and I now rate the hide by its Rough side .
How clean and smooth and dense is the Rough side of Horse hide ?
It sounds like Horse may have a number of attributes that interest me , but having never had anything to do with it I'm interested in knowing if it would work Rough Out .

Ken

Ken, my experience has been it varies. When your buying butts they are cheap but also have differing quality from piece to piece. Rough out horse tends to be very attractive along with being soft to the touch and is an extremely popular material for pocket holsters. Some makers exclusively sell horsehide belts/holsters due to it's ability to resist moisture better than cow. The hides themselves are hard rolled so the fibers are compressed much more tightly than a normal piece of veg tan - haven't seen too many with a marker up back. When dying you'll usually end up with a somewhat marbled effect that looks like a grain pattern in the leather.
 
Ken, my experience has been it varies. When your buying butts they are cheap but also have differing quality from piece to piece. Rough out horse tends to be very attractive along with being soft to the touch and is an extremely popular material for pocket holsters. Some makers exclusively sell horsehide belts/holsters due to it's ability to resist moisture better than cow. The hides themselves are hard rolled so the fibers are compressed much more tightly than a normal piece of veg tan - haven't seen too many with a marker up back. When dying you'll usually end up with a somewhat marbled effect that looks like a grain pattern in the leather.

Thanks for that :thumbup:
I think I will try and get a small amount and see how it goes .
In your previous post you mentioned that it is harder to mold , which may be a slight issue for me , but if I go for thinner than what I would normally use I might hopefully get it to do what I want .

Ken
 
I brought in a CrossBreed Holster in Horsehide and love it. For an IWB, it's thinner but much more dense than equivalent cowhide, imo. But never worked with it myself.

Not too long ago, I swore by budget leather, and could not see any advantage for small cut-up projects like holsters and sheaths. But after realizing that my finished products off the bench ended up looking like they'd already been worn for a couple of months, in comparison the other quality, but low volume builders. So I decided to try some of the premium stuff. And boy did it make a difference. If I started making to sell, I don't think there would be any other choice but to up the quality on components.

Unfortunately I still have a few sides of cheap stuff, so for my own use, hobby and/or gifts, I just have to make do right now. But because of my premium test, I am much more selective of cuts that end up visible. The bad stuff gets used for welts, testing, and practice leather for my son. I'm also pretty loose with waste right now while I chew up my supply. Won't be able to do that when paying 2-3 times the price per foot.

And thank you to all those that have shared their time and expertise in this thread/forum. I know your time is valuable, but I have learned a ton also in a short amount of time from it.
 
Thanks for that :thumbup:
I think I will try and get a small amount and see how it goes .
In your previous post you mentioned that it is harder to mold , which may be a slight issue for me , but if I go for thinner than what I would normally use I might hopefully get it to do what I want .

Ken

Ken, harder may be the wrong way of putting it. It's different. And different takes getting used to. I'll forget about it in the sink for an hour while it bathes. On veg tan a 5 second dunk is all I usually require. That also gives you an idea as to the density of what your dealing with.
 
Sorry for any confusion but the info I had on horse hide through Horween's retail shop is for strips. Here's what they said:
Below is the pricing for Russet horse hide strips. There is a 12 week lead-time.

Leather 10-25 lbs 26-50 lbs 51-75 lbs 76-100 lbs
Russet Horsehide Strips 12.50 per lb 11.50 per lb 10.50 per lb 9.50 per lb
Prices do not include shipping or handling.

5-7oz
7-9oz
9lbs and up strips carry a premium of $1.00 per lb.

The approximate dimensions are 12-16 inches in the highest point and 8-12 inches in the narrow strip parts will an average length of 42-46 inches. Each strip weighs on average 1.8 lbs so 10lb will yield 5-6 strips.


I think that's an "auto message" they sent for inquiries. I was waiting to get their swatches before digging further with them.

Terence
 
Yeah those are the "butts". They are odd shaped pieces left over from squaring up a side. Most horse goes to the shoe industry because of its properties of once stretching and molding to fit an object it does not continue to stretch like cowhide. Thats why it makes great sheaths and holsters. Ya can buy the butt or strip singly from Sheridan for $28 each to decide if ya like em. Zac White and Springfield carry them but never seem to have them in stock.
 
I used to buy the butts from some outfit in Southern Cal. I think it was Siegal. Any way as I recall they had "soft rolled" and "hard rolled". The hard rolled was almost like sole leather, and the soft rolled was pretty close to cow hide and far as cutting tooling etc. I believe that for most folks here the soft rolled would be the choice.

Long skinny odd shapes but I could get head stalls and spur leathers and an occasional belt out of them. They are, or would be good for several sheaths each also. The ones I was able to get ran about 7/8oz. as I recall.

They are almost always subject to "on hand" and that's not that often.

Paul
 
Yeah I use to get em from Siegel too. $5 a piece. I used alot of soft rolled 5/7 oz. They closed the doors though around the start of the recession. They had a huge catalog of all kinds of leathers you've never heard of. They wer in Santa Ynez, Ca.
 
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