Is it normal that the Endura fails spine whack test ?

P

Pitou

Joined
Sep 28, 2007
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Just got an endura ZDP on ebay, same as this one but with plain edge:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...sid=m37&satitle=330172366897&category0=&fvi=1

I tried the spine whack test to check the lock (whack the back of the blade against something hard), it failed almost all the time, even when I did not apply a lot of force. I tried with a Police, the Police never failed the test, even when applying a stronger force. Is this normal for an Endura, or what do you do in that case ??
 
i have an endura, and i like it, but i don't think it was intended for that kind of abuse; blades like the military, police, and chinook are, so they should pass a simple spine whack test. enduras/delicas, IMO, more casual, light duty EDC.
 
The spine whack test is something that will start arguments. Some people swear by it, and others, such as STR who has his own sub-forum under the "Makers" section here, will tell you that spine whacks are near to abuse. He has repaired knives and has seen the damage the spine whacks have caused.

STR has described the method that he recommends; check over in his place for it.
 
I have an old and trusted Endura. I would never think of subjecting it to that "spine whack" BS test. It's ridiculous!
 
It should pass a light spine whack test, not "death by spine whack" if I may be permitted to quote Sal Glesser.
 
There is a difference between a spine tap, a spine whack, and spine whacking.

The difference may not be seen to you guys using the knives but to me when I take them apart I see the result of this and particularly the latter of the three.

A single spine whack repeated over time is spine whacking. If you routinely make a habit of doing that it is my opinion you have no one else to blame when your lock eventually lets you down.

I am not at all opposed to an occasional test of the lock and recommend it. All I'm saying is that putting dents in a table top with the spine of the blade repeatedly over time with your folder, regardless of lock type, equals abuse and that is how it shows up on the parts inside. This type action is terribly stressful to the lock mechanism and can and does cause fracturing, shearing, indenting, sticky locks, loose locks, and rounded edges and contacts.

I've seen thousands of Spyderco locks ok. They are crisp, sharp contacts made at proper angles and usually a spine tap is only necessary right after break in to test it along with other methods like spine and tip pressure when opened. When I see a lock and its contact and edge that used to be a crisp corner edge at a 90` angle is now rounded, indented or fractured all over I can figure out what caused it pretty quick.

STR
 
I agree with everyone about the spine whack test. . . But I won't say anymore about that.

To answer your question, I would say from your description that there is probably something wrong with the lock on your Endura. It should be making a nice loud click as it opens. If it's not then there may be something in there interfering with the mechanism. If you haven't done so already, examine the lock and the notch that it snaps into on the blade and make sure there isn't any lint or other debris in there that might be causing trouble. You can use the canned air that they sell for cleaning keyboards to blow that kind of stuff out of there. Check to make sure all of the screws are tight. And finally, if that doesn't help, take the knife apart and examine everything closely for damage.
 
If you have had that knife apart before and put it back together incorrectly, as is quite commonly done with the E4 and D4 models because of the fiberglass reinforced nylon back spacer/spring holder I imagine this could be enough off to weaken the spring by enough to allow defeats also. Its also easily done by improperly seating the spring as it should be and on some models its actually possible to get confused and stick the spring in backwards from the way it belongs. All these things can contribute to lock reliability changes.

I would suggest being very careful putting the knife back together if you take it apart. There is a technique to that and it must be done right or you will damage the little insert nipples in that rear spring holder to secure the upper lip of the holder for the spring. Those little nipples that fit into the liners are there to prevent the spring from having its way with the much thinner, weaker FRN part it connects to.

STR
 
I've never understood the spine whacking "tests". What does it prove exactly? When I use a knife I normally apply pressure to the sharp side of the blade in order to cut something. To me, that is the primary purpose of a knife...to apply pressure to the sharpened edge in order to separate some sort of matter. I've never had a need to apply pressure in the opposite direction. Help me out here. I'm new to knives and am looking for some guidance. Thanks.
 
Slatts, why do you buy locking folders then? What possible purpose could a lockback serve you with better than a slipjoint if you only ever load the cutting edge?

Myself, the spine does come in contact sometimes during cutting...sometimes on purpose, sometimes on accident. I find it contradictive to call a folder "locking" that cannot pass a simple spine tap, which is generally an underrepresentation of real world forces that could close your knife when you're not expecting it. I consider it a basic test for safety myself. Then again I don't do full arm swing spinewhacks on hard surfaces every day with my folders.
 
it proves the lock is working.

if i wasnt worried about that i'd carry a slippy.

a LIGHT spine wack is not abuse by any means imho, ya dont have to go nutz.

imho any spyderco with a lock thats functioning correctly should pass a light spine wack.

i've cut the heck outta my hand with a folder that the lock was malfunctioning on so the way i use a knife its a big deal (it was a REKAT SIFU FWIW)
 
Slatts said:
I've never understood the spine whacking "tests". What does it prove exactly? When I use a knife I normally apply pressure to the sharp side of the blade in order to cut something. To me, that is the primary purpose of a knife...to apply pressure to the sharpened edge in order to separate some sort of matter. I've never had a need to apply pressure in the opposite direction. Help me out here. I'm new to knives and am looking for some guidance. Thanks.
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Slatts you must lead as dull and uneventful existence as I do. ;):D I've never needed to fend off an attacker's blade with the spine of my knife, or use a back cut on an opponent either. I have been known to "pressure test" locking knives that gave me little reason to trust their locks, by applying moderate to heavy pressure to the spine. For what I do with knives, that's a "real world" test, as I've had knives get stuck and needed to lift upward to free them.
 
A spine whack test seems to me like testing a motorcycle helmet by throwing it on hard ground. :eek:

JB
 
I just tested mine. It's fine. I don't believe in spine bashing either....it's not a true test for a knife. BUt the lock shouldn't fail. Spine tip pressure test is a better test. But before you do any testing, best you clean the lock of any lint etc that might prevent a good solid lock-up. On lockback spydercos, you will hear a loud twack.
 
Slatts said:
I've never understood the spine whacking "tests". What does it prove exactly? When I use a knife I normally apply pressure to the sharp side of the blade in order to cut something. To me, that is the primary purpose of a knife...to apply pressure to the sharpened edge in order to separate some sort of matter. I've never had a need to apply pressure in the opposite direction. Help me out here. I'm new to knives and am looking for some guidance. Thanks.
Click to expand...
I had an occasion to appreciate the lock strength of my Endura III at work. I was intending to cut some old air line above a catwalk. I stepped on the bottom railing, pulled myself up with my left hand and as I stepped up, the open knife hit a piece of angle iron. It was quite a jolt to the spine of the knife and I was surprised that I didn't drop it. Had it been an inferior lock it would have been ugly. The force of that spine whack was easily triple the force that I usually use to test a lock. If one of my knives can't pass a few stiff whacks with the palm of my hand it sure can't handle what awaits it on the job.
 
Hi Guys
those of you that obtained the Spyderco video a few years ago will remember a view of spydies being packed, each packer was tapping(repeat TAPPING) the spine of the open blade of each and every knife prior to putting it in its box. They each had a small wooden block especially for the purpose.If it is good enough for the manufacturer to do it, then it should be OK for me, the new owner, to do occasionally. No bashing or smashing, just a light tap. The rest is just BS
Phil
 
Vivi said:
Slatts, why do you buy locking folders then?
Click to expand...

Good question. It's because I like the SNAP, POP, CLACK, and THWACK sounds they make when I open them. :D

Actually I do appreciate a good lock and yes I actually do understand the benefits of a lock. I guess I'm just not AR or safety-minded enough to test knives in this manner. I just buy good knives, mostly Spydercos , use them, and don't worry about it.
 
Hmm, I do have a habit of doing this with other things besides knives. I always double check my seatbelt in the car, check the bolts on my skateboard when I go ride etc. I've got enough to worry about messing things up on my own being human that I try to prevent mechanical failures before they have a chance to happen.

Any knife in particular that sounds good to you when you open it? I still remember the noise the Manix made when it was opened...quite nice. :)
 
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