Is it possible to do stock reduction without power tools?

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pantalaimon

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Jan 13, 2003
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Hi all, I've been interested in making knives for quite a while but I live in an apartment, so my options are severly limited. I'm wondering if it's possible to use the stock reduction method without power tools, as they would not go over well. I only have limited access to a grinder, about 1 weekend a month, if that.

Also, what's the best steel to use for hunting knives/skinners? I was thinking possibly of O-1 flat stock with a thickness of .125" or .094", then blued to help prevent rusting. I've found tons of instructions, but none of them have recommended any types of steel. Cost and workability are the two biggest factors for me.

Any info you can give or point me to, I am grateful for.
 
Welcome to the forums.

It is possible to make a knife without power tools. I think alot of the people here started out that way. I am just a beginner also, so I will let the more experienced people here give you some advice on what tools and steels to use.
 
I know guys that can make knives quicker with files than I can with a grinder. Another non-power tool that I believe would be nice in such a situation is a sen. From what I can find out these are kind of like a draw knife for steel. Would be great for flattening things up, and some say that steel can be removed so quickly as to make the shavings smoke.
 
i made my first few this way. out of stainless and carbon steels. my first two were 440c that i sent out for heat treat. 1095 carbon was the other and i did the HT my self.
 
I'm a strong proponent of starting out simple. Rather than trying to put it into words from scratch, I'll just post an excerpt from my maker's profile at Custom Knife Directory.

-----

I started making knives in 1993 using nothing but handtools. For 18 months I made knives with nothing but a hacksaw, a hand drill, a hammer, several files, and a lot of sandpaper. I suppose one might say that it was a "poorman's" stock removal. Heat-treating was done with a charcoal fire, a hair drier, a pair of locking pliers, and a magnet.

It is my personal belief that this is an ideal way for one to start out. I feel that learning the basic skills, using the simplest of handtools, builds character and teaches two qualities that are key to the success of the serious maker. Those two all-important qualities are patience and determination. Without them, the most sophisticated equipment is useless."

-----

As a full-time bladesmith, it's necessary for me personally to use power tools to be able to produce things fast enough to make a living. But another thing to realize is that even though these tools can speed up production, they also speed up the process of screwing up a piece. :D

Regarding the suitability of 01 toolsteel, it's a darn good steel. It was in fact the first steel I used because it was readily available, came in a wide variety of sizes, and was available in a clean, precision ground finish. Since I now forge knives, the clean steel is of no help, but when I started out with the poorman's stock removal, it was a real plus.
 
Look at the cover of BLADE magazine, Feb '03. Those dagger-pistols were had almost entirely by hand in a shop smaller than my wife's clothes closet. In my honest opinion, if you master the use of hand tools your mastery of the knifemaking process will only grow once you acquire power equipment.

Jeff
 
Like a lot of people have already stated, a lot of knife makers have started with nothing but hand tools, myself included. I started with a 2' by 4' bench made of scrap wood. I added a vise, about 6 or 7 files, a hand held electric drill, a hacksaw, about 7 grits of sandpaper from 150 grit to 2000 grit and a dremel. Oh, I almost forgot, I had the book "how to make knives" by Loveless and Barney. I learned a lot about myself donig it this way first. I still don't have the best of power tools, but I've found that you don't need to spend thousands of dollars to make a great knife.

I started with O-1 and moved to 440-C with my last two knives. They both made a pretty decent knife and are pretty comparable as far as workability with hand tools.

Let us know how it goes.
Rick
 
Like many others have already stated, the first few knive that I made were done with nothing but simple hand tools. Even though I have a pretty well equipted shop, I still make a knife every now and then with just hand tools. I am by no means an expert with a file, but an old German tool and die maker that I worked with could do amazing things with nothing more than a couple of old hand files. The best advise that I can offer is to start simply and add machinery as you skills grow and money allows.
 
I have a belt sander now. However I use a file on some part of every knife I make. Think of hand filing as exercise. Some guys pay good money to go to the jim to build their arms up. You will get it for free. I was always thrilled when I made a knife with a file.
I got a sheet of glass about 3/8 or 1/2 in thick. I stuck a sheet of sand paper to it and used that to flatten the the whole blade after filling.

HAve a look around some of the construction sights where carpenters
hang out some of those guys have nifty colapsable saw horses and vices.
 
Scoop, thanks!
Pretty informative starter text. It sounds sensible and practical. Anybody out there try it this way and what were your results?
 
I`m with Primos on this. I made about 12 with
files. IT will do 3 things,Teaches you how to use
the files&patienance, an if you really have
the desire to make knives. But hey what do I
know I`m Not a Hammer Jockey,just a Grinder


:p
 
So what is the best steel for a non power tool first time stock removal?

I am leaning towards 0-1 or 1095

Buy it in annealed condition of course!
 
I'll add this. I have a grinder, but it has been as much trouble as it has been an asset. I don't want to say much, but part of the problem is that I am still learning. The other part of the problem is that for the amount of knives and the style of knives that I make, a file in may cases is much easier to use and produces better results. Recently I took a file to 4 knives thT I ground out on my machine. THe file had the blades thinned out and FLAT in no time. FLAT is important, and a file is good for that. Just a tip, go buy some nice new files and don't toss 'em in a tool box to bang around. Put them in a tool roll and make sure you use that file card too.

As for the steel question, use whatever is easiest for you to get heat treated. I use stainless because I can get it treated in a city near me. If you are an appartment dweller, stainless may be easier for you then.
 
I am finishing up my first knife right now. I don't have any power tools, except for a drill, a few good files do the job. I slotted out the guard with mini files, I cut out the recess for the tang with some Flexcuts, I cut the nickle silver with a coping saw (I will NEVER do that again), sand paper took care of the rest. I am having a hell of a time soldering the guard, I soldered the guard four times, and I have taken it off four times. I am going to try one last time and then use JB Weld (if you live anywhere near Cincinnati you should be able to hear me swearing at it).

You should try making one, it just takes patience.

Matt
 
I'm surprised no one has mentioned the book "How to make Knives" by Barney and Loveless. There is a whole chapter on doing just this--making a knive using files and sandpaper-no power tools. It is a good tutorial, pictures and all. And the end product is impressive too.
 
a related question-what about hand working steels in the hardened state? is this impossible? I don't have a furnace, so I'd have to send it out.
 
Steel can be ground in it's hardened state but not filed. You'd need a belt grinder of some sort and would have to keep the steel cool in order not to ruin the temper. Many makers grind the blades in the hardened state to avoid warping.
 
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