is it possible to overheat 1095 steel?

I think those blades are... toast.

I second the recommendation for a 1080/1084 over 1095 if heat treating with a forge, especially if you have little to no control over it currently.

I'd also recommend pouring over the "stickies" and doing a little more research on forge controls, as there are plenty of mods you can employ so that you're not JUST limited to high, low and off.

BTW, are you using for fuel in your brake drum forge?
 
lockjawbladeworks said:
any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Lockjaw, there are a couple of tried and true techniques to follow when heat treating in a forge instead if an oven, the Count went through them before.
I think the most important part is to never leave them alone, don't even leave them sitting still (you learned why the hard way). Use of a baffle keeps the heat relatively gentle, but again, you can't leave them sitting there.
I do one blade at a time, I hold it with tongs and never let it stop moving inside the baffle (back and forth, rotating) so it won't develop hot or cold spots.
The heat treat is so important it's well worth your undivided attention.
 
tempchart_zps3e087fab.jpg


Old school color chart will help you out, along with a magnet. Hopefully you can familiarize yourself with the general parameters of color/temp before your next go. It's about as primitive as it gets and by no means exact, but in general the chart works well when lacking certain luxuries.


This is where the ole saying "too many irons in the fire" comes from.... Been there and done that.... In fact I'd advise all newcomers to do it once to a scrap piece of steel just to get that lesson learned out of the way...
 
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