Is "lock-slip" an issue in real use?

MaxFactor

MaxFactor

Joined
Dec 26, 2012
Messages
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First, a little backstory. I recently sold a very well constructed new-in-box midtech on the secondary market. Same day that the buyer received the knife they said they would have to return it due to "lock-rock".
I'm familiar with lock-rock. With the knife open and locked, the blade will have movement about the vertical axis. It's very annoying and the lock-up will feel anything but solid. The movement between the blade tang and lock-bar contact surfaces can be easily felt. I knew that I would have noticed lock-rock but agreed to refund the buyer and have the knife returned.
Upon getting the knife back it was clear that there was absolutely no lock-rock. I was, however, able to get the lock bar to move outwardly to the side when firmly holding the knife handle and putting a considerable amount of force against the spine while the knife was open. Under this kind of stress there is lock-bar movement and a slight lock-rock but in what reasonable"real-world" condition would there be force against the spine? I guess I just fail to see how under normal use this would even become a problem.

To sum it up: How does the lock-slip test, of putting pressure on the spine of an open frame-lock, really translate into actual use? Is outward lock-bar movement under considerable blade spine pressure a reasonable indicator of future outward lock-up failure? Apart from batoning a folding knife, in what situation would the spine of the blade even be exposed to such a force?
 
The buyer used "lock rock" as an excuse to return said knife to you due to buyers remorse.
 
Good question. I see so much talk about lock preference and often wonder what people are doing to these knives. If I'm applying force to a knife it is normally against the sharp edge, not away from it.
 
if you are cutting into a piece of wood and it binds, when you pull it out- you'll be putting that kind of force on it
 
Ive had lock failure more than once with negative pressure on the spine, or with a downward jolt.

Usually while working in a tight space, cutting at an awkward angle. I've been cut a few times this way.

I don't like lock creep, or movement at all, even when cutting and putting all the pressure on the edge.

one of those knives was the same liner lock my older brother had. He was cutting thick rubber (sidewall on a tire). Blade folded up and he severed the tendon in his right thumb.

Same knife with me, I was topping boxes of meat at a job. I poked the knife into the box, and instead of hitting nothing, it hit a frozen piece of meat. Folded like a noodle and cut me (not bad at all, just a little slice).

I'm leery enough of it, that lock movement makes me awe-full nervous.

I use slip joints all the time, but any movement in a locking knife (whether it is a lock back, liner lock, frame lock, axis lock, ultra lock etc, etc) bothers me.
 
Happens with my Spyderco Ti Military. I bought it used, and I don't know what the previous owner(s) did with it. I will likely send it in to Spyderco for maintenance when I feel it's warranted, but for now I just consider it to be wear.

I don't think the lock is in danger of disengaging while in use, so I don't consider it a major issue for now.
 
Thw S&W CK402 I lost had a little lock-rock and yet it did its job cutting open zipties without any problems so it's a non-issue for me.
 
I seldom stab anything with a knife. I like the lock stable and predictable, and I don't particularly like a lot of blade movement side to side especially. Lock-rock.... new term for me. Which lock is best? Don't care as long as it is stable and predictable. I use Vic SAKs more than any other knife type. Their "locks" are just fine with me and I dislike liner locks. I really have to like a knife a lot of choose one with a liner lock. It will seldom get used if it is a liner lock.
 
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