Is my kmg set up properly?

Will Batayte

Will Batayte

Joined
Jan 8, 2007
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Also is there any kind of manual for this thing? I found very simple instructions on the web but no actual manual. Seems like a great machine and is built like tank but I want a basic do's and don'ts and operating instructions.

What I did to tension the belt was depress the spring lever, slide the arm out all the way, lock it down, then release the lever so the full tension of the spring is on the belt.

It's not wired yet. My uncle will do that part since he's an electrician.
 
Looks right to me. The piece in the second pic is the mounting bracket for the VFD.

Stan
 
I always depress the tension arm all the way down, pull the tooling arm out as far as you can, (with the belt on) Then lock it in place. Speaking of which the tension arm is way too short and requires some effort to do so. I'm not sure why they make it this way but I bolted on a longer arm so leverage is on my side. That piece is for mounting the vfd to the baseplate.

Looks like its set up right to me.
 
I don't see any tracking adjustment
The ones I build to sell have VFD's, but is one to one gear ratio right?

What RPM is the motor, it looks like it has a 4 or 5 inch drive hub at !: 1 that thing should fly.

Don't they put crown pullies on the ones without VFD to change the speeds?

Jim
 
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That is a mounting bracket for a VFD, its what makes it variable speed,slide-simple.jpg I dont see any stepper pulley or a capacitor wart so Im assuming that's a 3 PN motor. So it looks correct , but you either have to have 3 phase power if you are planning on running one speed (full out) which is unlikely, or a VFD to convert 1 phase to 3 phase power and give you variable speed..
Is the tracking screw hidden by the handle ?
 
Noting a few other things, the belt is on backwards. when looking at it from the belt side the belt should run counter clock wise.

Is there a tool rest with it? depending on how it is constructed the tool arm may be on upside down if the two bolts sticking up are for mounting a tool rest. Mine are on the bottom of the arm. Top is fine maybe even better if the tool rest is made for it to go that way.
 
You will like that machine.. Especially if you are coming from a lesser quality unit. Variable speed is a very nice feature to have. Enjoy !
 
Hmm do's and don'ts.. Do grind steel and wood....Don't grind skin and bones....fingernail grinding should be avoided as well.. Although it happens to me a lot. Just use common sense, It will go a long way.
 
More downward pressure on the top arm when pulling out and locking the tool arm will result in a more horizontal arm position and this will be helpful with tracking.

If it's too slow for you when it's all out get a smaller pulley on the drive shaft or a 6" drive wheel or both.
 
PT Doc said:
More downward pressure on the top arm when pulling out and locking the tool arm will result in a more horizontal arm position and this will be helpful with tracking.

If it's too slow for you when it's all out get a smaller pulley on the drive shaft or a 6" drive wheel or both.
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Thanks this is the kind of stuff I mean. Little tips and tricks.
 
Always keep the work rest as close to the belt as possible to avoid getting blade pinched between belt and rest
 
You are going to need a big bucket full of water to catch the sparks and abrasive dust. Put some dish washing soap in it to lower the water surface tension and make the grindings sink into the water. This will keep some of the dust out of the air. Now to the soapbox part of my post: Please use eye and lung protection as replacements are costly.

Also, a hook on the wall to hang your respirator or dust mask. Enjoy. My KMG has given me many years of excellent service. It is the most important tool in my shop. -Doug
 
The only things I will add right now are to make sure you adjust the spring so that the center pulley is highest but it looks like you already have it that way. Also, don't leave belts under tension when not in use as it stretches them out and makes tracking difficult (warble).

Oh- platen should be kept just slightly further out than the wheels. And you might as well throw a ceramic glass platen on there now while your steel platen is still nice and flat.
 
The idler, drive and contact wheel are all different widths. Check to see that each wheels centerline is equally spaced from the frame. This will be an exercise in patience. Make any adjustments at the drive wheel to get their centerlines spot on.
 
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