Is my steel O1?

H

Hacked

Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
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So I ordered some O1 flat stock from Jantz Supply and got to work on my first ever blade. Anyway I expected the steel to oxidize at some point along the way after a few days working with a hack saw and files I noticed zero rust or patina so getting nervous that I might have a peace of mystery stainless that I would not know how to have heat treated properly I put some mustard on the edge and let it sit nothing. Is there any chance that what I have is actually O1 or am I screwed?
 
The stuff I use doesnt rust at all while working with it, stock I have had in my garage is perfect after a couple years as well. Stick a wet piece in some leather overnight would be a different story though!
 
Hacked, if you fill out our profile I wouldn't have to ask my next question: where do you live and where are you working?

In places where it's dry you might not notice any oxidation. Now if you're grinding and dipping in water to cool, that's another story.
Stainless stains less after it's heat-treated anyway.

The mustard test is interesting. It's the vinegar that does it, you could try a longer soak.
 
Get some cold blue from the sporting good store. Clean with sandpaper one small spot, Swab a q-tip of the solution across the steel.
If it turns black it aint stainless.
CW
 
machinistbutler said:
The stuff I use doesnt rust at all while working with it, stock I have had in my garage is perfect after a couple years as well. Stick a wet piece in some leather overnight would be a different story though!
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Thanks this is what I was hoping to hear as a long time user and first time maker I was not sure what to think.

daizee said:
Hacked, if you fill out our profile I wouldn't have to ask my next question: where do you live and where are you working?

In places where it's dry you might not notice any oxidation. Now if you're grinding and dipping in water to cool, that's another story.
Stainless stains less after it's heat-treated anyway.

The mustard test is interesting. It's the vinegar that does it, you could try a longer soak.
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I'm in south east VA so not what I would consider dry lol. I think I have a small chunk in the shop I'll try the paper towel and vinegar trick for a day or so on that. I will be sure to fill out my profile further as I plan to make this a hobby.

Thanks for all of the quick replies everyone.
 
Was the steel marked? Did you get anything resembling a datasheet or other document that tells you what it is? Can you trust the vendor?

Fiddling around with vinegar, various other etchants, cold blue, spark tests and whatnot is a very poor alternative to actually knowing what you've got. At best, those tests will get you in the "kinda-sorta, could be-maybe" range. :thumbdn:
 
Mudbug007 said:
If it came from Jantz marked 01, I'd bet you money that it's 01.
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That is good to know they where fast to ship with a great selection so I have nothing bad to say there. I was just worried they had gotten some mislabeled steel. Happy to hear that they have a solid reputation.

bladsmth said:
There are lots of good reasons to fill out your profile, BTW.
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I'll get on it. I work in Norfolk so that's a big coincidence any recommendations for local heat treat or suppliers? Btw is there a way to change ones profile name?

Thanks everyone for your help.

For anyone who was curious here is where it was at the other night it's been slow going with only files to shape it out but it's starting to resemble a knife.

8420201409_2a09b6a250.jpg
 
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While that is better, most everyone but me won't have any idea what P-town is...matter of fact, no one in Tidewater, VA probably uses that term. There is nothing wrong with saying you live in Portsmouth, VA .....even if the Va Beach folks may snicker a bit:D
Also, if you had enabled messages by email , you could have had me tell you this in a more private setting.

There are several heat treatment providers in Richmond, but I don't know anything about them. I do a blade or two from time to time, but will not be doing any for a while.

Send me an email about this blade.
 
bladsmth said:
While that is better, most everyone but me won't have any idea what P-town is...matter of fact, no one in Tidewater, VA probably uses that term. There is nothing wrong with saying you live in Portsmouth, VA .....even if the Va Beach folks may snicker a bit:D
Also, if you had enabled messages by email , you could have had me tell you this in a more private setting.

There are several heat treatment providers in Richmond, but I don't know anything about them. I do a blade or two from time to time, but will not be doing any for a while.

Send me an email about this blade.
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It's the best I could do from my outdated smartphone for now I'll update setting and such when I get home. I know Portsmouth has a bad rep (not sure why) but after living in Chesapeake and Norfolk for a while I found I prefer P-Town actually anything over Chesapeake. I just let them laugh it up I'm happy and have some great neighbors.
 
I would also like to comment that if you ordered from Jantz you most probably got what you asked for. I deal with them almost exclusively. They have all the stuff that I need and their prices and service are the best that I have found. As to your original question, I work with O1 a lot and I don't see rust / oxidation when I work with it either. It will rust if it stays under my bench for a year or so but even then it is nothing that my buffing belt won't knock right off. O1 will rust / oxidize right now after it has a nice, shiny finish on it. I have actually watched O1 turn color when I run hot tap water on a finished knife. If you don't have a temperature controlled oven you might want to give 1075 / 1085 a try until you do. If you are heating with a torch / charcoal / propane (whatever) just make sure that you give it 20 - 30 seconds MORE heat after it goes non magnetic. O1 really does require some soak time at the hardening temperature to truly realize its full potential.
 
I agree with Jantz being good to deal with but they like anyone else can and do make mistakes. I added a bar of 5/32" A2 to an order and when it came in I put it on my steel shelf still in the paper wrapper. A few weeks later when I got ready to use it I took it out of the wrapper and it was 3/32" instead of 5/32" even though it was marked 5/32" on the paper and the steel itself. I called them to get it straight and they sent me the correct bar free of charge and let me keep the 3/32" bar also. Like I said they are good people but aren't immune to mistakes.
 
As far as oxidation goes, I've generally not had problems before dipping a blade in water.

If, however, you glue a paper pattern to the steel and let it sit around too long after profiling you can get some nasty rusting and pitting under the pattern. Scrape the pattern off as soon as it's profiled and the holes are center-punched! Man, what a PITA that was...

-Daizee
 
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Made some progress on this I need to pick up some sandpaper and get my hands on a working drill (both batteries for mine decided to give up their ghost). After I get some sanding done and some holes drilled I plan to start working on the primary bevel.

I am planning on a full flat grind hopefully with a distal taper on this on using files. I have a single cut (mill) bastard file and I was wondering with the 3/32" O1 steel should I just draw file from the get go on the bevel or should I establish it first with more typical file work?

Any other advice before I get started? I would like to turn this into a WIP thread if possible as I'm sure I will need help along the way.

Thanks for all of the advice and reassurance so far everyone. :thumbup:
 
I would start a new thread and let this one roll away ( or close it) if you want to do a WIP thread on your knife build.

The "How To" tutorial in the stickies is pretty much tailor made for that type and size blade. I would print it out and read it two or three times before you get started. A highlighter is a good tool while reading it. Anything not understood or covered can be asked in the new thread.


I would just file and sand it carefully. It is short, so draw filing won't be as easy or effective. You are only taking about 1/32 off each side at the edge, so it will be a few file strokes and then a sanding block. I would not worry too much about the distal taper, as it will sand in sort of naturally on a blade that thin and short. DO NOT SAND THE BLADE 100% to thickness and taper before HT, as you will be taking a bit more off after HT. 90-95% is as close as one dares. If you don't heed this, the final blade will end up either with a poor finish, or thinner, shorter, and narrower than planed.
 
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nothing wrong with living in portsmouth, i have to admit i was there once every time i have to fill out "place of birth", even though the navy has torn down the building i was born in. i am an advance newbie, so some suggestions. get a plug in the wall drill, the batteries never go dead. you can find good drill bits and polishing pads that mount on your drill cheap. get the basic plug in the wall dremel, i use it for finishing cleanup. i got a 4x36 belt sander for about $120; it is not as sexy as the 2x72 i have been allowed to use, but with a good zirc or ceramic belt you can get good results and learn technique. i have been using aldo's 1084, great steel, will get very hard, and i have heat treated it in my fire place, just make sure you get some fast quench oil as my adventures with brine were 50% sucess and 50% tink. i have gotten some good deals on O1 on ebay, steel came in factory packaging.
the old sailor
 
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