Recommendation? Is S30V the right steel?

Honestly, it sounds like a softer and easier to sharpen steel would suit your use better. Like AEB-L, 14c28n, 420HC, most carbon steels, and so on. Your use barely touches what S30V is capable of being a high edge retention steel. The steels I mentioned seem like they would do better because of your requirement for shaving so easily being able to strop to a shaving sharp again seems like it would be good. S30V isn't really that as it has some high carbide content and resists sharpening.

S30V is a great steel but it's not something that is designed for super keen edges and easily being able to keep it shaving sharp. It can be done but it shines in being able to hold an edge for a long time, especially a working edge. I love putting a "rough" or "toothy" edge on it, treating it like D2, and working it that way. I don't need it to shave, just cut cardboard, tape, and so on rather easily and it doesn't need to be shaving sharp for that.

VG10 sharpens a lot easier and I think that may be why it seems like it performs the same or similar. S30V is going to keep a working edge a lot longer but a thin, shaving edge may not feel a ton different for an appreciable amount of time. VG10 also responds a lot better to a strop.
 
From my perspective I see S30V, and S35V, as good middle-of-the road steels but it really comes down to the HT. I've never had any issues with sharpening but I also have a Gen3 WE, SharpMaker that also includes diamond rods, and there is always my water stones that I use for free-hand sharpening of my kitchen knives. I'm about two weeks into testing out Maxamet on a PM2 which so far seems to be amazing at edge holding but we will see when I have to sharpen for the first time.
 
co556guy said:
I tend to agree with you....
These harder steels are great for holding an edge, but harder to sharpen.

Something like aus8 would be a great idea for light use because all OP would need to do is strop it when it gets appreciably less sharp, doesn't need special stones, and isn't hard to get screaming sharp.
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Hello my brother,

That's exactly what I mean. Stropping will keep a softer steel very sharp inbetween stone sessions. And once you do need to take that soft Aus 8 or 420HC steel to a stone, it's razor sharp in ten minutes or less.

And, like you said, any hardware store stone will work. You don't need diamonds.
 
Snacktime said:
... You could try D2 which may bridge the gap between edge holding of s30v and Vg10. 20cv is slightly better than s30v. Maybe try another brand as heat treatment can make the same steel very different.
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I'd be careful with this advice in the current market. Most of the "D2" out there now is Chinese D2. Aside from possible variations in composition, the heat treatments aren't always ideal. Some of the Chinese companies do better than others but the average edge retention for this D2 just doesn't live up to the long-established reputation. There are now several examples of less expensive stainless steels like 12C27 holding a better edge than some of the Chinese D2.

You're right that heat treatment makes a big difference. For instance, WE seems to have perfected the heat treatment for 9Cr18Mov. As a result, their Civivi knives in 9Cr18Mov can often outperform their slightly more expensive knives in Chinese D2.

Coincidentally, I've noticed both Bestech and Petrified Fish releasing knives in K110. Besides a slight bump in price, I'm guessing this is an attempt to both avoid the compositional issues and dodge the dodgy reputation that's been growing for Chinese D2.
 
Benchmade runs their s30v too soft for me, won't hold edge.Their 154cm I prefer. Chris Reeve also runs their s30v and s35 vn soft. People put down Buck for their 420hc but I will take that over the other 2 all day long. My preference is 154cm, 440c, and Spyderco's K390 along with 420hc and plain old carbon. vg10 not so bad either
 
Good discussions here. I've been using S30V for a very long time, but only in a very few individual samples. Like I originally say, doesn't seem much better than VG10 in my application. The burr thing is a definite possibility, but I do go out of my way to avoid developing a burr. I use the sharpmaker 99% of the time and put a shaving edge on the 30 degree inclusive angle and then do a few final passes on the 40 degree with the fine stones. I've messed around with stropping using leather loaded with rogue as well as with a couple different grits of diamond paste. Never seemed to offer much improvement in either sharpness or edge retention over the spydie rods on S30V. Porbably just expecting too keen of an edge for too long and need to increase my touch up frequency.
 
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